Surfer shares horror story of receiving curse from noted big wave hellman

"You better go on this or you will never catch a wave here again grom!"

Last week, David Lee Scales and I enjoyed a live version of our weekly podcast at the Belly-Up in Solana Beach. The stars of the eve were the great Rusty Preisendorfer, Taylor Knox and Jojo Roper who shared stories of truth and grit with an impressive and engaged audience.

It was all more personal for one man sitting amongst The People™.

Mr. Hand, you see, had once, long ago, encountered the aforementioned big wave hellman at a scary San Diego slab. What happened in the water haunting him to this very day.

Here is his story.

I want to thank you guys for a wonderful evening at the Belly Up. My wife and I went and had a lovely time.

Now for something not so lovely. I have a Pros in the Wild regarding Jojo Roper and to be clear the not so lovely part is in reference to me, not Jojo.

This was back in 2008 when I was a junior in high school and was filled with the unmerited confidence that many high schoolers have. What better place to prove myself than the legendary La Jolla reefs.

That winter I had some fleeting successes at this break to add to my unmerited confidence, so I was especially pumped to see a decent swell in the forecast. The big day came; the crowd was heavy and the waves were even heavier. Knowing my place, I relegated myself to the shoulder and picked off any scraps that would come my way.

After hours of shoulder sitting, the session changed. People went in, the tide sucked out and what was left were staircasing slabs on nearly dry reef, myself, and a handful of guys including one Jojo Roper.

I looked over the edge on a couple but only saw barnacles below. At this point I knew I should not be out there. The remaining crew, Jojo included, were making drops I could never dream of and getting absolutely barreled. But my young hubris would not let me go in until I caught one of those monsters.

A set was approaching and it was swinging wide – right to the shoulder. Jojo was paddling back out and he could clearly see my timidness. Jojo looks me straight in the eyes and says “You better go on this or you will never catch a wave here again grom!”

Heart racing, I put my head down and paddled as hard as I could. I felt the wave start lifting me up and I saw the water sucking out below, but I was too late. I pulled back. Being called into a wave by a local legend would be a high schooler’s dream, and I blew it. I didn’t even look back as I started the ultimate paddle of shame.

I have come back to that spot a few times over the years but haven’t gotten any more than scraps and eggy crowds including high school groms who can actually shred. Jojo’s curse has stuck.

Fast forward 16 years and I am sitting in the audience with the buzzed-head sorcerer himself. DLS has opened the mic for questions I have the prime opportunity to have the curse mercifully lifted. But, just like how I pulled off that wave, I stay lips sealed, nervously glued to my seat as DLS announced last call for any questions echoed in my head.

Jojo’s curse will endure and I will continue a living a life forever on the shoulder.

Brave to share. but do you have a similar story? Out in a rising sea, trembling internally? Did you stiffen your spine or shame paddle?

You are amongst friends.