Pacific Palisades on fire
While money came and went, properties were bought and sold, Ganzer, Carson, and Trafton were Dionysian men of action. For better or worse, they chose sensual action and experience-filled lives over material ones. None of them have Santa Barbara beach houses, Sun Valley ski houses, much less $1000 a night White Lotus-like resorts they can retreat to. They will now have to start over.

Three of Malibu’s greatest surf icons homeless after LA fires

First responders found George Trafton staggering down the side of PCH, “severely burned and most of his clothes incinerated.”

In a sad postscript to my story, “Ode to the Palisades,” Jim Ganzer, Lance Carson, and George Trafton, three of the Palisades “elders” I mentioned in the first paragraph, lost everything in the fire and are now homeless.

Ganzer’s rancho up Los Flores Canyon burned to the ground along with his art and surfboard collection. When I spoke to him two days ago, Ganzer did not talk about what insurance would cover, rebuilding, or his loss. Instead, he apologized for letting “Old Yeller,” my favorite Robbie Dick longboard that I kept at his house, burn.

In addition to losing his house on the Pacific Coast Highway and everything inside it, first responders found George Trafton early last Wednesday morning, staggering down the side of the Pacific Coast Highway, “severely burned and most of his clothes incinerated.” Although he survived, Trafton is now at the Grossman Burn Center undergoing skin grafts on much of his body. 

George Trafton, Malibu surfer.
George Trafton, Topanga, 1970.

Lance Carson has not been allowed back to the Palisades. He does not know what remains of his home of fifty years, but he knows that it is uninhabitable.

In many ways, Ganzer, Trafton, and Carson defined what their old friend, iconic West LA surfer and H2O Magazine publisher, Marty Sugarman, best described as Southern California’s “Waterfront Culture.” While Jim Ganzer is known for his surf wear company Jimmy Z, he is a polymath. 

In addition to pioneering surfing in Costa Rica, he attended Chouinard Art Institute with Chuck Arnoldi, Laddie Dill, Ron Cooper, and worked closely with Larry Bell. Ganzer’s art has been shown all over the world.

Ganzer starred opposite Michelle Phillips of The Mamas & The Papas in Ed Ruscha’s film Miracle.

Jim Ganzer in film Miracle.
Jimmy Ganzer in the film Miracle.

Although his on screen film career was brief, the legendary bon vivant had quite an impact on Hollywood. He provided the inspiration for the character “The Dude” in the Coen brothers film The Big Lebowski.

Anyone who knows Jim Ganzer will attest to the fact that the movie’s most famous line, “The Dude Abides,” was his.

When it came to surfing Malibu, nobody rode the nose better than Lance Carson.

Different from Miki Dora’s smooth, narrow-stanced, trimming style, Lance’s technique was a more upright, bob-and-weave approach. He is known for his tail block stalls and cross stepping sprints to the nose. The Malibu icon provided the inspiration for the characters “Lance,” and “Matt Johnson” in his friend John Milius’ films Apocalypse Now and Big Wednesday.

Lance Carson, the inspiration for Lance in Apocalypse Now and Big Wednesday's Matt Johnson.
Lance Carson, the inspiration for Lance in Apocalypse Now and Big Wednesday’s Matt Johnson.

After shortboards replaced longboards and Carson’s surfing star began to fade, he focused his energy on building surfboards. Today, most surfboards are disposable, machine-made pop outs, but Carson’s are hand-shaped, meticulously glassed and some of the finest in the world.

George Trafton, son of NFL hall-of-famer George “The Brute” Trafton (center on Knute Rockney’s 1919 Notre Dame team, Chicago Bears player/coach), turned his prodigious athletic talent first to skateboarding and then to surfing.

People have lost sight of the fact that skateboarding’s true ground zero was Pacific Palisades.

More than a decade before Dogtown, George Trafton and others were doing unthinkable things on the town’s steep hills with only clay wheels. Instead of seeking a career in pro surfing, he became one of California’s greatest underground surfers. Trafton summered at Scorpion Bay, wintered at The Ranch, and spent so much time in the tube that he earned the sobriquet “The Mole.” In addition to his feats in the water, Trafton also had a Mick Jagger side, and was the lead guitarist for the Malibu surf band “Blue Juice.”

While money came and went, properties were bought and sold, Ganzer, Carson, and Trafton were Dionysian men of action. For better or worse, they chose sensual action and experience-filled lives over material ones. 

None of them have Santa Barbara beach houses, Sun Valley ski houses, much less $1000 a night White Lotus-like resorts they can retreat to. 

They will now have to start over.

I head a small nonprofit called Fainting Robin Foundation. In short, we help people who need help. From persecuted professors and journalists, to the families of murder victims and POW/MIAs, to veterans trying to get the VA to honor their commitments, to civilians on the frontlines of wars, we help.

Fainting Robin has a very small budget, no office, or staff other than my wife Annabelle Lee and me. We have made a $1000 donation to each man. Anyone who wants to make a donation to Jim Ganzer or Lance Carson can make it through the GoFundMe links below

Help Jim here. 

Help Lance here. 

I could not find a GoFundMe Account for George Trafton. If you would like to make a donation to him, Fainting Robin can deliver it. Unlike GoFundMe, Fainting Robin will not skim a penny. All donations are tax deductible. Please note who you would like your donation to go to. www.faintingrobin.org.

Many other Waterfront Culture icons are equally deserving of support. Kathy Kohner Zuckerberg, the original Gidget, Dogtown Lord Skip Engbloom, and many others lost their homes. 

Even more tragic, lesser known Malibu surfer Randy “The Crawdaddy” Miod died with his kitten in his arms while trying to escape his beloved “Crab Shack” on Pacific Coast Highway. 

I am at a rare loss for words.

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Laguna Beach closed to surfers after massive sewage spill soils lineup

"A 'sewage swimming vacation' is a completely fictional concept, meaning a vacation where someone would intentionally swim in water contaminated with sewage..."

Southern California cannot catch a break. Fires still burning in Los Angeles, former World Surf League CEO Erik Logan celebrating his birthday in the South Bay and now Laguna Beach entirely closed after tens of hundreds of thousands of sewage just spilled into the Pacific.

The cause of this unfortunate disaster appears to be a break in a sewer main line near a park in Laguna Niguel that spewed 465,000 gallons of waste into the aforementioned waters.

Orange County Supervisor Katrina Foley declared, “I urge Orange County residents, visitors, and tourists to heed public health experts’ warnings and continue avoiding the closed beaches in Laguna Beach while the Health Care Agency conducts water quality tests.”

Surfline is currently reporting the artist’s haven is experiencing 0-1ft surf in the “poor to fair” range though is expecting a “fun” pulse of northwest swell to arrive beginning tomorrow.

It likely won’t be as “fun” when colored brown and smelling of toilet.

Real quick, though. Google, as you have certainly seen, has rolled out its AI generated information at the top of any search. I just attempted to find the clip of Ed Helms and Christina Applegate bathing in sewage in the 2015 remake of National Lampoon’s Vacation and typed “sewage swimming vacation.”

The bot informed me:

A “sewage swimming vacation” is a completely fictional concept, meaning a vacation where someone would intentionally swim in water contaminated with sewage, which is highly dangerous and not recommended due to the serious health risks involved; swimming in sewage-polluted water can lead to infections like gastroenteritis, skin irritation, ear infections, and potentially more severe illnesses depending on the level of contamination.

How stupid is that?

Here, anyhow, is the clip. Enjoy.

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Controversy explodes in Sydney after council bans sexy surf-wear

"Thongs and G-string swimwear is not acceptable for males or females..."

Summer is turning downright wild in Australia. Yesterday, we learned that multiple popular Sydney-area beaches had been shuttered after becoming inundated with alien balls. Manly, Dee Why, Long Reef, Queenscliff, Freshwater, North and South Curl Curl, North Steyne and North Narrabeen, each very featuring very fine surf breaks, currently closed to the public while scientists poke around in the sand, attempting to understand where the little grey and white blobs came and of what they are made. Northern Beaches mayor Sue Heins gamely declaring, “We don’t know at the moment what it is and that makes it even more concerning. There’s something that’s obviously leaking or dropping… floating out there and being tossed around.”

Well, surf sun worshippers looking to get a fix of vitamin D from local pools instead of the beaches better tread very carefully. In a move that further stunned the staggering suburbs, a council in Greater Sydney has announced a ban on g-string bikini bottoms. A leisure center, which owns five pools, attempted to explain, posting, “Much of [the confusion] focused on a poster showing the kind of swimwear that is and isn’t appropriate. It’s important to remember that these images are indicative only. In particular, the image of ‘revealing swimwear/thongs’ has raised some eyebrows. This image refers to thongs and G-strings – not bikini tops and bottoms. Thongs and G-string swimwear is not acceptable for males or females when visiting our leisure centres. Bikinis are acceptable and considered recognised swimwear.”

Thong and g-string users were quick to denounce their marginalization and took to social media, en masse, declaring, “If you don’t like it, don’t look” and “So long as [practicality] and safety are considered it shouldn’t be any one else’s business what I’m comfortable swimming in.”

Cultural expert Lauren Rosewarne told The Guardian that Australia has a long history policing women’s bodies, adding, “The undercurrent of these stories is that somehow women are doing something with their bodies to distract men in ways that make men feel as though they’re being tempted, and it’s up to women to sort themselves out … Somehow, the responsibility is on women not to stir desires in men, because then men might act badly and be punished, so we have to put the responsibility of morality on to women’s shoulders.”

The final dagger delivered at the end.

“Not everything is sexual just because you see it as such.”

The uproar has not yet put an end to the draconian rule change though do you have an opinion on the matter?

Should decency be policed?

Or are you a live-and-let-live sort?

More as the story develops.

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Jack, Matt and Leroy, stars of Big Wednesday, all based around real-life Malibu surfers.
Jack, Matt and Leroy, stars of Big Wednesday, all based around real-life Malibu surfers.

Malibu icon who inspired Big Wednesday’s nihilistic surf star Matt Johnson left destitute after LA fires

"He read the waves better, never made a mistake, and only fell off deliberately at the end of a ride . . . or if he was drunk."

As arsonists drift gaily across the ridges and canyons of Los Angeles, blowtorches warm in hands, and the city burns, burns, burns, the heart has been torn out of the Malibu surfing community.

Randy “Craw” Miod, who was known “The Malibu Man of Mystery” was found dead in his home, The Crab Shack, holding his kitten while trying to split the flames.

 

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George Trafton, whom Petey Maguire referenced in his Palisades story last week, was almost burned to death and is at UCLA getting skin grafts on 80% of his body.

The artist Jim Ganzer, whose cult brand Jimmy’Z was a helluva thing in the eighties before it was butchered post sale, lost his famous shack in the canyon above Malibu.

And beautiful noserider Lance Carson, the inspiration for Big Wednesday’s nihilistic protagonist Matt Johnson, also lost his home.

Matt Johnson mirrored Carson’s self-destructive and nihilistic real-life character, an alcoholic who sure did like to party and throw hands.

Lance Carson, said Big Wednesday director and screenwriter (along with Dennis Aaberg) John Milius, was the best surfer at Malibu in the late fifties.

“He read the waves better, never made a mistake, and only fell off deliberately at the end of a ride . . . or if he was drunk.”

Bruce Brown narrated a seemingly endless ride of Carson’s in the Endless Summer with, “he’s so relaxed up there you get the feeling he could have a ham sandwich while he’s waiting around.”

Right now, howevs, left without a home.

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Live Chat: Da Hui Backdoor Shoot Out Day Four!

Big n burly!

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