Jack, Matt and Leroy, stars of Big Wednesday, all based around real-life Malibu surfers.
Jack, Matt and Leroy, stars of Big Wednesday, all based around real-life Malibu surfers.

Malibu icon who inspired Big Wednesday’s nihilistic surf star Matt Johnson left destitute after LA fires

"He read the waves better, never made a mistake, and only fell off deliberately at the end of a ride . . . or if he was drunk."

As arsonists drift gaily across the ridges and canyons of Los Angeles, blowtorches warm in hands, and the city burns, burns, burns, the heart has been torn out of the Malibu surfing community.

Randy “Craw” Miod, who was known “The Malibu Man of Mystery” was found dead in his home, The Crab Shack, holding his kitten while trying to split the flames.

 

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George Trafton, whom Petey Maguire referenced in his Palisades story last week, was almost burned to death and is at UCLA getting skin grafts on 80% of his body.

The artist Jim Ganzer, whose cult brand Jimmy’Z was a helluva thing in the eighties before it was butchered post sale, lost his famous shack in the canyon above Malibu.

And beautiful noserider Lance Carson, the inspiration for Big Wednesday’s nihilistic protagonist Matt Johnson, also lost his home.

Matt Johnson mirrored Carson’s self-destructive and nihilistic real-life character, an alcoholic who sure did like to party and throw hands.

Lance Carson, said Big Wednesday director and screenwriter (along with Dennis Aaberg) John Milius, was the best surfer at Malibu in the late fifties.

“He read the waves better, never made a mistake, and only fell off deliberately at the end of a ride . . . or if he was drunk.”

Bruce Brown narrated a seemingly endless ride of Carson’s in the Endless Summer with, “he’s so relaxed up there you get the feeling he could have a ham sandwich while he’s waiting around.”

Right now, howevs, left without a home.

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Live Chat: Da Hui Backdoor Shoot Out Day Four!

Big n burly!

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Sydney shutters iconic surf beaches after alien balls found on sand

"We don't know at the moment what it is and that makes it even more concerning."

To declare that these are the strangest of times is a severe understatement. I suppose the thick of the Black Death days, when folk wandered around with dried toads hung from their necks, were also the strangest of times. Australia’s Emu Wars certainly very strange, too, but here at the dawn of 2025 we have Southern California burning, North Korean soldiers wandering around in Ukraine and alien balls washing up on Sydney’s iconic beaches forcing mass shutterings in the heat of summer.

Manly, Dee Why, Long Reef, Queenscliff, Freshwater, North and South Curl Curl, North Steyne and North Narrabeen, each very featuring very fine surf breaks, currently closed to the public.

Six months ago, alien balls washed up on famed Bondi Beach, forcing closure there too, but those ones were black and turned out to be fatty acids, though the Environmental Protection Agency disputed the notion, declaring it, “can’t explain the source of the human waste causing the fatbergs and it can’t assure the public that Sydney’s beaches are safe to use.”

These new ones are white or grey and completely cryptic.

Northern Beaches mayor Sue Heins old the Guardian that they “could be anything,” continuing, “We don’t know at the moment what it is and that makes it even more concerning. There’s something that’s obviously leaking or dropping… floating out there and being tossed around.”

Surfers are encouraged to call the authorities if and when they come across the foreign bits.

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Kathy Kohner Zuckerman aka Gidget and her daddy Freddy, author of the book that launched a sport.
Kathy Kohner Zuckerman aka Gidget and her daddy Freddy, author of the book that launched a sport. | Photo: Courtesy Matt Warshaw/Encyclopedia Of Surfing

Jewish surf queen Kathy “Gidget” Zuckerman homeless after Pacific Palisades house incinerated by LA inferno

“At my age, imagine it: The house is gone, the neighborhood is gone, the community is gone."

Malibu’s queen of surf and the inspiration for the book Gidget, which kicked off the whole damn surf crazy seventy years back, is homeless after her pretty Pacific Palisades house went up in the LA inferno.

Kathy Kohner Zuckerman, eighty-three now, is the kid of Czech Jews who fled to the US before the Nazis could shovel ‘em into the ovens. Her daddy Fred, a man who held a PHD in psychology from Paris’ Sorbonne, became a screenwriter in Hollywood and was nominated for an Oscar for his 1938 movie Mad About Music before writing the zeitgeist shifting book Gidget.

Fred wrote Gidget over six weeks in 1956, retelling the stories Kathy told him over dinner about hanging out with the big dogs at Malibu. The book went wild, half-a-mill copies sold, and was turned into a raft of movies (Gidget, Gidget Goes Hawaiian, Gidget goes to Rome), a few telemovies and a TV series.

Warshaw, keeper of that barely flickering surf culture flame, says the original book was “dirtier and darker” than the sanitised film adventures of Gidget starring Sandra Dee.

Anyway, Kathy has lost the joint she’s lived in with her Yiddish scholar husband Marvin Zuckerman for the past sixty years, over there on Marquette Street in the Marquez Knolls section of the Palisades.

“At my age, imagine it: The house is gone, the neighborhood is gone, the community is gone,” she said. “But the diamond in the rough is that the Duke’s family and the surfing community have all rallied around. I am so appreciative.”

Kathy says said her phone has been lit up with calls from, among plenty of others, Hawaiian Randy Rarick and master surf filmmaker Jack McCoy

“With all these calls, I have reentered a world that I left a long time ago,” she said, “and that community has been just incredible to me.”

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Superyacht and angry surfer (pictured).
Superyacht and angry surfer (pictured).

San Diego surfers chant “eat the rich!” after superyacht pulls into harbor

"Billionaires are evil."

The wealth gap, growing, is a real issue as America teeters on the brink. Haves having more than ever. Have Nots less. Lessons from history, French Revolutions and Russian Revolutions, going entirely unheeded by the Mark Zuckerbergs, Elon Musks and Jeff Bezoses of this once-great nation.

Real quick, though, did you listen to Kai Lenny’s former BFF on the Joe Rogan podcast, recently, touting his commitment to free speech and whatnot? A ludicrous little man sprouting wild hair and wearing gold chains, these days.

The dictionary definition of “goober.”

Well, in other ostentatious news, a mega-yacht pulled into San Diego’s harbor, over the weekend, and was met with derisive hoots from the city’s many and varied surfers.

The Attessa IV, worth one half of a billion dollars, arrived in America’s Finest City and thereby caused a firestorm of complaint.

“It doesn’t even look good. Sad,’ one surfer declared on Reddit, while another claimed, “Y’all should trash these yachts. Stop letting billionaires pollute the earth.”

“I don’t know the owner, but I already know I don’t like them. The audacity it takes to have a 150 million dollar yacht. Billionaires are evil,” yet another chimed.

The owner, Dennis Washington, made his filthy lucre via marine shipping, railroads and mining. Old school financial rape, I suppose.

Boat International shared details surrounding the refitting of the superyacht:

Washington’s concept for Attessa IV was ambitious: new bow, new stern, new foredeck tender garage, new spa, new superstructure shape, all new helipad, and totally new interior layout, including crew areas. The yacht originally had a large karaoke bar, 15 owner and guest cabins and room for 21 crew in rather packed conditions.

The main deck and above were gutted to the shell, the mains and generators overhauled, virtually every bolt and wire was replaced, engines re-bedded, fuel tanks moved, flume tanks removed and the space stripped, soundproofed and painted. That and reconfiguring the crew areas, extending and widening the bow section, adding the folding mast, a forward tender garage with gull-wing doors, bulwarks that slide down and aft simultaneously to allow the large tenders — an 11.5-metre Novurania Chase and a 10-metre Riva — to be launched over the side, and the huge aluminium stern door that disappears completely from view down and under the aft deck sole.

Washington, as noted, liked the yacht’s size and overall structure, but thought it looked entirely too commercial, like a cruise ship. The puzzle he worked on was how to keep such a large vessel intimate, both inside and out. To control the vastness of the space, he envisioned Attessa IV having a waist at the area of the central ventilation and exhaust trunks amidships, and flares to widen the side decks fore and aft.

But let’s pretend, for one moment, that you were unfathomably wealthy. Would you superyacht?

Or supernot?

The Attessa IV once smacked a fishing boat killing folk.

More as the story develops.

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