In the summer of 2003-04, the editor of Waves, Adam Blakey, and his best friend Ozzie Wright, created a movie that captured the intrinsically unsullied spirit of the young Australian surfer.
It is called Doped Youth and named after an anti-marinuana movie the was made in 1930. (“The Menace That Strikes At The Heart Of The American Youth.”) Doped Youth, the surfing movie, is notable for its roll call of stars including Kelly Slater, Tom Carroll, Ozzie, of course, and more.
And here we see the surfer and photographer Dion Agius surfing, early evening, in south-west France while a recording he made, also in France, colours the air.
The poem is the same one Levis used in an advertisement a little while back and, yet, its theme of acknowledging the brittle hold we have on life and therefore the importance of seizing every single day of it, is universal.
It’s a short poem that Dion reads with a resolute steady swing. A very good entry point into the poetry of Bukowski.
The Laughing Heart by Charles Bukowski
your life is your life
don’t let it be clubbed into dank submission.
be on the watch.
there are ways out.
there is light somewhere.
it may not be much light but
it beats the darkness.
be on the watch.
the gods will offer you chances.
you can’t beat death but
you can beat death in life, sometimes.
and the more often you learn to do it,
the more light there will be.
your life is your life.
know it while you have it.
you are marvelous
the gods wait to delight
— by Charles Bukowski
Lost reimagines the classic 90's film 5' 5" x 19 1/4" with the Redux.
Featuring Chris Ward, Aaron Cormican, Cory Lopez, Kolohe Andino, and Kelly Slater and more.
BRAZILIAN ITALO FERREIRA IS CURRENTLY TIED FOR FIRST ON THE 'CT RANKINGS. THIS EDIT MIGHT PROVE WHY HE'S SITTING AT THE TOP SPOT
In the edit above, you’ll see one Italo Ferriera going absolutely ham at Fernando de Noronha-an archipelago about 350 kilometers off Brazil’s northeast coast and the country’s finest swell magnet. Sitting at the top of the rankings (tied with Mr. Julian Wilson) and with the Oi Rio Pro officially underway, Ferriera will be looking to bring a little bit of the spice you see above to the shores of Saquarema this week. Press play and get a taste of what’ll come this week-if the waves cooperate that is.