A daring young man almost stopped forever by a howling savage wave!

Fashion model Koa Smith releases harrowing POV footage of surviving “sixty-foot waves” at secret outer reef, “I’m so grateful and psyched, I thought I was about to die!”

Derek Rielly

By Derek Rielly

"I woke up with so much fear this morning."

In this just-released edit, we are gifted ring seats to the three-time NSSA champ, runner-up to Zeke Lau’s Ultimate Surfer and part-time model Koa Smith charging like a bull at a North Shore outer reef during the Eddie swell.

The behelmeted Smith is twenty-seven and, as you know, surfs with the contented and dreamy look of the female suckling her young.

In one instance, the young lion swings his board as the great wave approaches and he turns his sad yellow eyes to the beach; nothing is going to stop him, not even the growing fermentation in his bowels.

“I woke up with with much fear this morning and having so many thoughts of how easily I could’ve said, no I’m not going to go out and let that fear determine what I was going to do… instead of having a moment I’ll remember for the rest of my life.”

Essential.

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Laird Hamilton, a study in good health and beauty for almost sixty years.

World’s sexiest over-fifty Laird Hamilton reveals the fat-soaked diet, and home gymnasium, that keep him wildly fit as he enters his harvest years, “The doctor was covered in my blood, all over his mask. I could feel him yanking on me!”

Derek Rielly

By Derek Rielly

“What keeps me motivated is survival. Not drowning!”

Earlier today, I watched a video of a a well-proportioned almost sixty-year-old man, a superhuman some might say, giving Men’s Health a tour of his fridge and gymnasium.

Laird Zerfas (later, Hamilton, when his mammy split from daddy and moved her and the boy to the North Shore where she married the big-waver Billy Hamilton), who lives in Malibu in summer, Maui in winter, explains his surprising diet, which is full of natural fats and so on, his belief in supplements and, later, during a tour of his gymnasium, his devotion to light therapy.

Why does he train so hard, take so much care of what he eats?

“What keeps me motivated is survival. Not drowning!” says the hyperbole-prone Hamilton, who also lists his myriad injuries, including an ankle busted eight times, the replacement hip, the smashed knee etc.

“I’m wounded,” he says.

A few years back, I asked Hamilton about getting the hip sawn off and how he refused a general anaesthetic for the procedure and later said no to painkillers.

“The doctor was covered in my blood, all over his mask,” he remembered. “I could feel him yanking on me. I could feel pulsing as he was doing shit to my leg. It wasn’t pain because they did a spinal tap where they numb one leg. I called one of my buddies to talk during the operation for amusement.”

One of a kind.

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Koa's pal hands him the exploding wetsuit vest.

Hawaiian heartthrob and scion of North Shore strongman Koa Rothman reveals myriads secrets, including an exploding rubber suit, he uses to survive “fifty-foot Waimea Bay!”

Derek Rielly

By Derek Rielly

The rapidly-becoming legendary Koa Rothman on what it takes to surf the world's most famous big-wave spot.

It is always difficult to turn the head away from Koa Rothman, the youngest son of Fast Eddie and little brother to big-wave world champ and ukulele prodigy Makua.

Rothman, twenty-nine, has a golden-brown glazed handsomeness and, unlike most of the bigger name professional surfers, is sharp enough to ad lib his way through twenty-five minutes or so of his day-to-day life for his blog This is Livin’.

In this episode, which follows his travails as he surfs the almost-Eddie swell at Waimea one week ago Koa reveals the double knotted, double leash plug ensemble he uses to secures his leash to his surfboard, the leash with a release tab so he can loose his rhino chaser if it’s holding him in the impact zone and the exploding rubber vest he’ll employs if things get real hairy.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Koa Rothman (@koarothman)

How many canisters would you blow if caught inside at the Bay?

Wildly essential.

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"Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”

Brother of US Olympian almost paralysed in catastrophic big-wave wipeout posts harrowing POV footage of epic tumble, “I know this video ends quite dramatically… I got absolutely flexed!”

Derek Rielly

By Derek Rielly

"Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”

The Hawaiian-born brother of US surf Olympian John John Florence has posted a harrowing point-of-view angle of the twenty-foot wave that almost sent him straight to a quadriplegic ward.

Nathan Florence, a twenty-eight-year-old married powerlifter who runs both YouTube and Only Fans channels, tested his ability in the most malicious of conditions only two be rushed to hospital by his guy-pal Kai Lenny after a terrific wipeout.

“I got picked up and I fell through the barrel. I fell a lot longer than I thought,” said Florence. “After the initial impact, I got sucked up and fell again. As I was falling, I was pulling my vest. I just fell a lot farther than I thought and my body was in a weird position. I just slammed on my back on the bottom of the barrel, which is just hard water. Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”

The POV footage gives the viewer the most goddamnest feeling of being snapped in two by the hand of God.

“I know this video ends quite dramatically,” writes Florence. “I want you all to know that I am healing up and my back is feeling alot better I think I just got absolutely flexed!! Any way thanks for watching and what a way to start the new year with a BANG hahaha!”

Wildly essential.

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"I landed, compressed, and…flew… in the barrel," says Florence.

Sexy powerlifter turned Only Fans star suffers suspected back injury after attempting to surf twenty-foot waves, “I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine!”

Derek Rielly

By Derek Rielly

Surfing may be a world of marvels but it also a world of horrors…

Was it only two months ago when grave fears were held for the brother of US surf Olympian John John Florence after a paddle-out at a Scottish big wave in the same “mutant sea foam” that killed five Dutch surfers two years earlier.

That Nathan Florence, a twenty-eight-year-old married powerlifter, survived that event was a testimony to his ability in even the most malicious conditions.

Now, in his latest big-wave stunt, Florence, a powerlifter and Only Fans star, was rushed to hospital by guy-pal Kai Lenny after a wipeout during a twenty-foot day at Jaws, also known as Peahi, a wild outer reef on the island of Maui reserved only for big-wave experts.

“I got picked up and I fell through the barrel. I fell a lot longer than I thought,” said Florence. “After the initial impact, I got sucked up and fell again. As I was falling, I was pulling my vest. I just fell a lot farther than I thought and my body was in a weird position. I just slammed on my back on the bottom of the barrel, which is just hard water. Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”

Florence’s account is harrowing, the viewer feeling the crack of vertebrae and resultant jump of his pulses as x-rays are taken.

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Photo: Jack English
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