"Stuck in down-drafts of boils in the water felt like it wanted to pull you down below!"
Four months ago, Nathan Florence, a man previously described as “extremely intelligent and extremely capable”, scored the wave of the year at a remote Sumatran reef, making the point there’s more than one star in the Florence family.
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In the latest instalment of his excellent YouTube series, however, Florence had spectators fearing the worst after he and his seventeen-year-old Scottish pal paddled out a wave Florence himself describes as “very, very sketchy… (Because of) foam couldn’t sense direction or see if sets were approaching and just hearing five surfers died in Netherlands last year getting stuck in foam! What a spookfest! Stuck in down-drafts of boils in the water felt like it wanted to pull you down below while you paddled, meanwhile large sets approaching. All in all not a safe session …rescue would have been near impossible if injury was sustained.”