Hawaii’s BIPOC “Queen of Crazy” Mason Ho
films surfing’s greatest virtuoso Clay Marzo at Desert Point!
By Derek Rielly
“He knows things I don’t know," says Kelly Slater.
"He knows things that all the guys I’m surfing with don’t
know.”
In this twelve-minute short, we find Mason Ho, with
camera, recording the sorcery of Maui’s Clay Marzo at Desert
Point on the island of Lombok in Indonesia.
Of Marzo, Slater says, “He knows things I don’t know. He knows
things that all the guys I’m surfing with don’t know.”
Laird Hamilton, also from Maui, calls Marzo “an artist who can’t
be pigeon-holed. He’s something all together different that should
be cherished.”
It’s a penetrating glimpse into Marzos’s virtuosity and in stark
contrast to Ho’s “shuck and jive” style of surfing, a whooshing
flash that leaves spectators’ mouths flapping mutely.
The trio, along with Pollet, De Carne, Mason’s
filmer Rory Pringle, Mikey Corker and Stu Gibson, spent one week on
the unnamed hunk of sand, driving mostly, but surfing here and
there, giving Medina the opportunity to dazzle in righthand
slabs.
Rare free-surfing footage of Gabriel Medina
tearing hell out of remote Australia alongside Mick Fanning and
Mason Ho in “Kangs”
By Derek Rielly
"It's the stroke flick of the year!"
The last time I’d interviewed Nick Pollet, famous for
his his comedic collaborations with Swellian Lord Adam “Vaughan”
Blakey, he was a few hours from a trip to Australia’s Great
White-infested southern flank with Mick Fanning, Gabriel
Medina and Mason Ho.
“I’ll swim and shoot but, fuck, real close to the other
photographers,” the Byron Bay auteur had told me.
That movie, called The Kangs, a cutesy way of saying Kings and
also ‘cause Medina wanted to see some kangaroos, has now been
released. And, from the moment Medina first puts on his rubber
gloves, submerges his hand in a jar of lube and rims…oh but
don’t let me give too much away… it’s the stroke flick of
the year.
Pollet says the highlight was triple world champ Medina, a rare
bird whom you’ll rarely see on free surfing trips. He says his true
character only emerges when the camera isn’t on him and, so, he
employed his sound engineer musician pal Alain De Carne, who scored
The Greatest Surf Movie in the Universe, to capture each forbidden
utterance. It’s the shell we can’t pry our ear away from.
“He recorded the whole trip and me and Vaughan had to sift
through the audio,” says Pollet although the price of art is to
sometimes lick the stank fingers. “It was a bit punishing to be
honest,” he says.
The trio, along with Pollet, De Carne, Mason’s filmer Rory
Pringle, Mikey Corker and Stu Gibson, spent one week on the unnamed
hunk of sand, driving mostly, but surfing here and there, giving
Medina the opportunity to dazzle in righthand slabs.
“He blew me away. I was shooting footage in the water and it
doesn’t do him justice,” says Pollet, “he so’s good out there it’s
crazy.”
The movie exits your screen with a soon-to-be-classic tune Wide
Open Land.
I define this as the sound of love.
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Florence bro's surf check.
John John Florence stuns surf world with
release of intimate homemade video from South Africa only weeks
after “devastating throat punch to the World Surf League”
By Derek Rielly
"The question must be asked again and again. Why
bother with the WSL?"
John John Florence is better than every other other
horned-up lunkhead on tour.
The almost thirty one year old from Pipeline on Hawaii’s North
Shore is living proof of the adage simplicity is the ultimate
sophistication as he shepherds his family of four, two brothers,
mammy Alex and wife Lauren, around the horn of southern Africa.
In these sublime twelve-minutes, Florence’s elegance and grace,
as well as his well-noted mystery, radiate from the screen. There
is no look-at-me grab for attention, only a sensuality that
delivers desirability and vitality in spades.
As noted two weeks ago, the video studiously avoids mention of
the Jeffreys Bay Pro where the two-time world champ was
controversially clipped by Conner O’Leary for a ninth place finish,
again a hint that he may not return to the tour in 2024.
Matahi Drollet, part of surfing's heat of the
year, alongside fellow local Eimeo Czarmak. Best heat at Teahupoo
since Slater and JJ in 2014.
Insane scenes in Tahiti as local surfers
create history in Kelly Slater-sponsored Teahupoo event with “best
surfing of the year!”
By Derek Rielly
Matahi Drollet and Eimeo Czermak rain 10s at the
Tahiti Pro Trials in the best heat at Teahupoo since Kelly Slater
and John John Florence in 2014…
It’s fitting in this post-truth epoch, where Asians are
white supremacists, men dominate women’s sport and marauding gangs
festooned in gold chains loot Louis Vuitton stores in the name of
equity, that the reigning world champion surfer can’t surf
the tour’s most demanding waves, Teahupoo and Pipeline.
In three days, the world’s Championship Tour surfers will park
‘emselves at Tahiti’s End of the Road, the closest access point to
Teahupoo, and compete in an event that is likely doomed to run in
poor conditions. It’s a scenario tailor-made for world champion
Toledo, who is wildly difficult to beat in waves under six feet,
but a walk-through at Teahupoo and Pipeline when eight-foot sets
stack on the horizon.
The trials, however, are something else.
With one wildcard on offer and in six-to-eight-foot waves wiped
smooth by light northerly winds, the two local surfers Matahi
Drollet and Eimeo Czermak put on a show unseen at the waves since
Kelly Slater and John John Florence’s epic semi in 2014.
With less than ten minutes gone, Drollet, 25, a man who won the
XXL award for biggest wave ridden in 2015 when he was only 16,
slouches into a 9.50 followed by a ten.
Czermak, a boy with golden highlights in strawberry blond hair,
the ginger snaps floating in freckled white skin, delivers his
riposte, an 8.17 then his own ten.
Needing a 9.61 he roams the park, pulling into wild west bowls,
futilely as it turns out.
Watch the full final here.
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Stewart thrills spectators with his
arabesques, fouettés, picqué tours and port de bras inside the long
tubes.
Sixty-year-old “godfather of bodysurfing”
steals show from world champs Italo Ferreira and Carissa Moore at
opening of world’s best wavepool!
By Derek Rielly
Spectators thrilled with legend's arabesques,
fouettés, picqué tours and port de bras inside the long tubes.
Some years ago now, a tribute to the bodysurfing and
bodyboarding icon Mike Stewart appeared on BeachGrit its author
positing, “He is simultaneously the, Duke
Kahanamoku, Miki Dora, Tom Curren and Kelly Slater of
his sport; its godfather figure, its most stylish practitioner and
its greatest champion.”
Rarely is this sorta hyperbole tested, but in the case of
Stewart and the sport’s current leaders, Italo Ferreira, Carissa
Moore and Stephanie Gilmore, a showdown at the Boa Vista wavepool
in Brazil, easily the best of the genre, put Stewart at the top of
the surfing totem.
Stewart is sixty years and has won the Pipeline Bodysurfing
Classic fourteen times and the bodyboarding world crown nine times.
He was filmed at the planned community one-and-a-half hours from
São Paulo, thrilling spectators with his arabesques, fouettés,
picqué tours and port de bras inside the long tubes.
Starting at one million dollars, well-heeled surfers can buy
their way in via apartments and villas built around a wave pool it
ain’t a stretch to call the “most high-performance wave in the
world.”
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros