Come chase once-in-a-decade to Nias with baby bro of Makua, son of Eddie…
Koa Rothman has become an expert at crafting compelling six-minute shorts, with the help of filmer and editor Jack Germain. This is Livin’ is, so far, fourteen short films featuring Koa in Fiji, in Indonesia, Hawai and so forth, plucking at our nerves with big-wave bravado.
San Clemente kid delivers urgent performance around home and at Surf Ranch…
In this two-minute short, Samantha Sibley, who is sixteen years old, surfs with an energy not unlike the similarly aged Caroline Marks, who is already on the WCT. You wouldn’t say Samantha surfs with a nihilistic fury, it’s well practised, but her approach to lip is so square off the bottom that they rarely grow repetitive and will please even difficult critics.
The action pivots on just-turned-thirty Jordy returning to South Africa for contest, to see pappy G and for eminently inviting free surfs…
Did you know that when he was sixteen years old, Jordy Smith was stabbed in a Durban robbery? Who even knew bad things could happen in that Mandela-era utopia?
Jordy, who turned thirty on February 11 and one day before Kelly turned forty six, explains: “I was walking home I got mugged and stabbed on my right side at the bottom of the kidney. They rattled my pockets, put a gun to my head and that was it. They just thought, this is a kid, that was it. It happened so fast. I was bleeding as I got up. I was crying at the same time, ran and went to the hospital and got stitched up.”
“I didn’t feel it. It didn’t go too deep. Sliced more than deep. It was a burning pain. I got such an adrenalin hit and then I started running and as I was running I felt my side and I realised what had happened.”
Didn’t they ask first before sticking the knife in?
“They don’t ask, hey. They stuck the knife in and took. It’s not like, ‘Hey can I have your money?’ It’s more so, ‘Get on the fucking floor, we’re robbing you.’”
And what does it feel like to be stabbed?
“I didn’t feel it. It didn’t go too deep. Sliced more than deep. It was a burning pain. I got such an adrenalin hit and then I started running and as I was running I felt my side and I realised what had happened.”
Does the spectre of death scare Jordy?
“I’m not afraid of death but it’s crosses your mind, like, ‘Oh my god, there’s a gun and if he pulls the trigger I’m dead.’ To be in a situation like that, you don’t think about the physical act of dying, you think about how you’re not going to live and you’re not going to see your family.”
In this extended but not full-length edit (six minutes), we follow Jordy in his freesurfs around the Jeffreys Bay contest. His shaper pappy Graeme inspects his boards, we’re reminded about the many flashy sharks there and Jordy, of course, gives us the spectacle of his unflinching approach to surfing.
A fine eight-minute short of bright new talent and the fusty, but not-yet-dimmed master.
Here, a very good eight-minute short of the Angourie surfer Dakoda Walters swinging around the West Coast of Australia with Taj Burrow, no intro necessary etc.
Taj, of course, is the king of the flock in this part of the world, this coastline with its hellish climate and great white sharks. Dakota, who is the eldest son of the one-time-pro Jeremy Walters, emerges with full honours in their various sessions.
Mick Fanning, meanwhile, calls Dakoda “the next big thing.”
Taj says, “I just love watching the next generation step up.”
Oh Lombok's best wave will disarm you! Notes of Pipe etc.
Society has an obsession with youth and hotness. But what if you were to throw a gang of relatively low-profile Brazilians at Indonesia’s best waves in conditions so spectacular they have notes of Pipe?
Wouldn’t that be hot too?
