Whom among the top 18 women could stop little
Jackie Doz in a pool contest?
Ain’t a bigger fan of women’s pro surfing than your ol
pal DR. I could watch Steph’s swoops, Caroline’s
fin-throws and Carissa’s intricate architecture all day
long.
But, what has always struck me, and it’s what I tell girls with
coaches, no one can do airs with any regularity or style.
I’ve never seen it better realised than this three-minute cut of
Jackie Dorian, who is twelve and the son of the former movie star
and pro surfer Shane Dorian, and whom we find here howling at the
Waco moon.
It’s pure poetry.
Now.
Put Jackie and a top five gal in the pool.
Best air wins.
Who’s got it?
And, is it sexist and brutish to ask?
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Michel Bourez deep inside a closeout at
Teahupoo, the photographer, Leroy Bellet, even deeper…
Watch: How an Australian teen snatched the
biggest bone at Teahupoo!
Pujol’s idea was this: Imagine a GoPro photo but captured with a
high-end Nikon D3 riveted to the fine glass of a 16mm prime
lens. But mounting big cameras on helmets and boards, while
theoretically possible, is expensive and clunky.
So Laurent figured he’d try a more direct and primitive route.
He’d step off into tubes behind the surfer and while they rode the
tube, he’d do the same, only deeper, and holding a camera.
“I saw this photo Mark Healey took at Pipe with his GoPro in his
mouth and he came in and showed me the picture,” Pujol told me back
in 2013. ” And even though it was soft (out of focus) and it
wasn’t, like, the perfect shot, you could see the colours, the
surfer from behind and I just went, wow, that’s fucking crazy.
That’s what I want to do. But I want to figure out how to catch a
wave with a (Nikon) D3 in my hand not a GoPro.”
The results were pretty wild.
Pujol’s dream was to get a couple of frames of Bruce Irons or
Nathan Florence at Teahupoo but, as he said at the time, “I’m not
going to kill myself for nothing. I’m not going to do it for a
double-page spread.”
Bellet, on the other hand…
Watch.
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Watch: Albee Layer in “Oh my God, don’t go!
Oh my God, is he going to die?”
How do you feel about kombucha, honestly? The
first time I ever tried, I thought. “Whoa, this is some powerful
alcohol!” before being informed that it’s not the sort of alcohol
that a man gets drunk upon. Apparently kombucha is a good, healthy,
probiotic drink and it turned my stomach severely.
Until now.
The powers that be figured out that if something tastes super
boozy it should actually be super boozy and would you
allow me to introduce “hard kombucha?”
Hard kombucha, meaning properly alcoholic kombucha, is
presenting Albee Layer’s newest film featuring the singular vocal
stylings of Matt Meola and, while they already had me at “hard,” I
couldn’t be more thrilled.
Rough Mauian kegs.
Or is it Mautian?
Mauite?
Maui-anna?
Mauiopolus?
I’ve already had too many hard kombucha’s today, hold the
kombucha, add vodka and then Red Bull.
Sorry.
I ran out of soda.
Mauiastranga?
Seriously, what is it?
Watch now!
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"Jeff seemed a little too focused on Skyler
and didn't realize how close he was to the the guy right in front
of him. That's when Jeff made a great split decision to push his
board the opposite direction and hurl himself to avoid disaster
thus landing on the guy and his board."
Watch: Full video (with zoom) of surfing
dog vs VAL vs SUP-foil/Mavs legend Jeff Clark!
Surprising, upsetting, offensive and fun. It's
everything surfing, or good sex for that matter, should be!
Four days ago, or thereabouts, we were gifted the rare
pleasure of watching a three-way between a surfing dog, a SUP
foiler and a VAL.
Guerin Myall aka @myallsnaps, a noted filmer of
surf, skate and punk rock around Santa Cruz, shot the event at a
beginner’s wave called Cowells and posted it on Instagram.
Cue outrage etc.
When I called, he said, “A lot of people were commenting that
the dog dropped in. Bullshit, I got the video footage,” says Myall,
who also praised Clarke for his skill in collision avoidance.
Today, Myall has released the full clip of the three-way, which
you can see below, and which gets good at the three-minute mark
when the moment is examined in slow-motion and zoomed in.
“My observation was watching Jeff speeding through the section
coming up quickly on HomerHomer was already driving down the line
from where he caught the wave at the breaking point of the peak,”
writes Mylall. “When the video focuses in on Skyler Homer and Jeff
it looks as if Jeff catches up to say “What’s up Skyler” and
everything’s all good but Jeff seemed a little too focused on
Skyler and didn’t realize how close he was to the the guy right in
front of him.
“That’s when Jeff made a great split-decision to push his board
the opposite direction and hurl himself to avoid disaster thus
landing on the guy and his board. Afterwards, it seemed like Jeff
and Homer agreed that that was a close one and parted ways…
“Me, being the Filmer, think Foils have a place in the surf but
not at a crowed weekend beginner spot where everyone drops in on
each other. This video is not meant to hate foilers or the people
that foil but to educate the people that are wanting to start foil
boarding and teach them to go where no one is, where its safe from
a crowed lineup to avoid potential accidents.”
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It ain't easy being a daddy, and it sure as
hell ain't easy being a daddy with a child prodigy whom you must
guide through a sporting career etc.
Dino Andino on world #2 Kolohe: “I taught
him to worry!”
And a tear-jerker back-story for Jadson Andre in
this 30-minute behind-the-scenes documentary, which includes the
Quiksilver Pro…
Let me admit this, and without rancour from the
parties involved.
I opened this video a couple of days ago, inhaled (a
thirty-minute long documentary of Jadson Andre and Kolohe
Andino…oowee) and buried it like a treasure map.
It was only this afternoon, sugary chocolate on my breath, that
I sat through the documentary in its entirety.
It ain’t bad.
Jadson’s back-story of poverty and responsibility jerks tears
and Kolohe and Daddy Dino’s relationship, discussed here there and
everywhere, still manages to reveal and to
surprise.
“I taught him to worry,” says Dino, whose own daddy was absent
in his life. The various uncles who were around chased the dragon
and so on. Dino made a promise to himself to helicopter his own
kid.
The goo is still oozing out of my eyes.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros
