The VAL apocalypse comes to Santa Cruz!
The name Jeff Clark rings some bells, don’t it. He was the first person to surf Half-Moon Bay, or Mavericks as it would later be known, and not just ride it, but keep it secret it and ride it solo for fifteen years.
(It wasn’t until a story in Surfer magazine in 1992 called Cold Sweat, which was written by BeachGrit habitué and pest Ben Marcus, that American surfers knew what monster lurked in their backyard.)
In this short clip, which you can examine below, we see Jeff Clark on his SUP foil at Cowell’s, a popular beginner’s wave in Santa Cruz.
Clark catches up to and attempts to pat Skyler the Surfing Dog before an almost catastrophe.
Skyler Valentine Henard you might’ve heard of too, she’s a world champion (everyone’s a world champion in 2019!), and her pilot and surf-buddy is the nineties pro Homer Henard.
Guerin Myall aka @myallsnaps, a noted filmer of surf, skate and punk rock since 1986, shot this fabulous little moment.
What happened, here, says Myall, was that Jeff was a hundred or so yards up the beach and therefore invisible to Homer and his dog (an eight-year-old Australian red heeler, if you’re wondering). He caught up to pat the dog, but the docking sequence was made incomplete by a beginner on the inside.
This was a close call but Jeff made a skilled bail. He saw the guy at the last minute, knew he had to bail out to the left and push his foil vehicle to the right. When you watch in slow motion, you can see that jeff landed on the guy on the board.
“A lot of people were commenting that the dog dropped in. Bullshit, I got the video footage,” says Myall.
The man who nearly loses scalp to SUP foil?
“Jeff was aware of him. That’s a beginner’s spot, the people don’t know what the hell to do, how to get out of the way. That guy didn’t know what direction to go. A lot of them just sit there and turn into speed bumps. This was a close call but Jeff made a skilled bail. He saw the guy at the last minute, knew he had to bail out to the left and push his foil vehicle to the right. When you watch in slow motion, you can see that jeff landed on the guy on the board.”
Despite Clark’s tremendous avoidance skills, there’s heat on foils in Santa Cruz at the moment.
“I mean, shit, the foils can go anywhere they want. They’re meant to ride ripples and ocean swells,” says Myall. “You don’t need to be around other people surfing. A couple of ’em rip through the lineup like they’re having their own video game.”