A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.

And, here, a pleasurable three minutes of John John Florence employing the fiery sting of his whip as a goofyfooter.

John John, the almost twenty nine year old from Pipeline, is, prefers to ride with his left foot forward thereby making him a “naturalfooter.”

In this short, the “flip” function on his editor’s software is employed to gift the surf fan a view of John John’s surfing as if he stood with his right foot forward.

A goofyfooter. Or screwfoot. Or “hot switchblade.”

A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.

If you think that John John Florence is perfection as a natural footer, wait ’til you see his transition.

Essential.

If you don't fall asleep there's plenty to look at… 

Who remembers what happened in 2017, apart from the media’s fixation on the ungodly Trump and a royal engagement that would tear hell out of a once-noble family etc?

It was, of course, the last time John John Florence would win a world title, shaking the little pro surfing world down and swimming a river of blood to snatch his second crown at Pipeline.

(He came second to Jeremy Flores at the Pipe Masters, if you’ll recall, enough to secure win.)

This film, Le Vieux Monde Rouge, which translates from French, roughly, to “She squeezed herself around his iron hard-on and rubbed its heady gristle against her stiffening little dingus”, contains never released footage from the European leg of that year’s tour, captured by an EPIC X Monochrome camera, hitting infra-red here and there.

Essential.

How many times have we seen Mason, from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

Mason Ho is an inspiration for his “new, soft, heavy, hot flow.”

How many times have we seen Mason, the thirty two year old from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

And while trying to postpone the inevitable fall, giving an impression of ease and grace?

This is the artist’s compulsion, the obsessive pursuit of the masterpiece.

In this latest episode of Mason’s adventures, this boy-man, who has the soul of a beautiful, imperious and passionate woman, yet locked into the body of a middling male physique, possesses yet another secret wave in Indonesia.

Such great balance and exuberance.

Essential.

"I'm bullshit proof!"

There is no reason, except a stupid one, for anyone to project on a screen anything that will dull that vital edge. 

And here we find the filmmaker and go-for-broke surfer Dane Reynolds, at the end of his thirty-sixth year, in the midst of maturity full of pain.

The famous daddy-body is heavy, massive like the country that gave him birth. Short arms, dainty hands.

Yet when he surfs he becomes like a cowboy of the Westerns: ready to fire his guns at the drop of a hat, getting into a rage at the least provocation.

In this latest episode of Chapter 11 TV, Reynolds with filmers Hunter Martinez, Mini Blanchard  and Andrew Schoener, has constructed a fine collection of local surfers from Oxnard, that tragic westside slum inhabited by poverty-mauled whites. 

“A medley of my friends and I surfing our favorite zones over the past winter and hopefully captures the essence of our surf community,” says the former world number four. 

Too many highlights to list. Essential etc.