Surf brand formerly owned by Saint Laurent
and Gucci releases stunning surf film, “I went to the asylum and I
all I got was this lousy Lobotomy!”
By Derek Rielly
Let it absorb you. Like absinthe.
I went to Lobotomy, the new film from Volcom, a
surf brand started in 1991 by an ex-employee of Quiksilver
disgusted by how corpo his employer had become although the new
brand would soon move in the same direction, expecting
vulgarity, eardrum-endangering screeching from an array of guitar
bands playing boring songs about angst, sex and teenagers behaving
badly, and an interminable armoury of charismatic surfing – and
that’s exactly what I got.
Essential. Let it absorb you. Like absinthe.
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Poopies, pulled from shark pen by divers. Note
arterial blood.
Watch: the moment Carlsbad stuntman Poopies
is pulled, bloodied, from shark pen in Happy Days-inspired shark
jump stunt gone wrong for Discovery Channel’s Shark Week, “I need a
911 emergency call!”
By Derek Rielly
Poopies eats it straight off the ramp, the sharks
hit, panic ensues, Chris Pontius weeps, divers scatter the reef
sharks and the kid is thrown in a speed boat and rushed to hospital
for surgery.
After much ado, the American pay television network
Discovery Channel has screened its Jackass-produced shark-jump
stunt, which went very wrong, but sorta right if you enjoy
stratospheric ratings, nearly killing its stuntman, Sean
“Poopies” McInerny.
The Carlsbad-born stuntman, who earned his nickname as a
13-year-old after a Jackass-inspired stunt where he
evacuated his bowels at a busy intersection and was subsequently
arrested, attempted to emulate a 1977 episode of Happy
Days where its star Fonzie jumps a shark on waterskis.
The “Jumping the Shark” episode became s shorthand for desperate
measures employed by TV writers who’ve mowed through every
reasonable storyline, and who shift into the ridiculous.
Anyway, Poopies eats it straight off the ramp, the sharks hit,
panic ensues, Chris Pontius weeps, divers scatter the reef sharks
and the kid is thrown in a speed boat and rushed to hospital for
surgery.
See the episode here and listen to Poopies talk about it
below.
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Surfers ride empty perfect waves as COVID
ravages Indonesia; 21,000 cases per day, 58,000 dead; country “on
edge of catastrophe!”
By Derek Rielly
The season of darkness and light.
It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it
was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness.
Yeah, Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities.
But one man’s death sentence (an Australian environmental
scientist describes people “hacking up black stuff” on the streets
and ex-pats paying twenty gees to recuperate at international
hospitals while locals die in the back rooms of their family’s
hovel), is a surfing bacchanal for others like Mason Ho and his pal
Sheldon Paishon, and which we can examine in this wonderful short
film by Rory Pringle.
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Russ in Tassie.
See: big-wave surfer Russell Bierke’s tiny
antlers sucked dry in, “Seething electric ecstasy, spasms of
delirium, frictional satisfaction!”
By Derek Rielly
Russell is twenty-four years old, diminutive and
old world, with a tight mouth and very plain-face that have the
ferocity of an angry cuckold, a cranky Italian denied his lunchtime
siesta.
The deceptively fragile looking Australian big-wave
surfer Russell Bierke commands such a reputation he needs very
little introduction, although a little background never
hurts, does it?
Russell is twenty-four years old, diminutive and old world, with
a tight mouth and very plain-face that have the ferocity of an
angry cuckold, a cranky Italian denied his lunchtime siesta.
Russell’s earliest memories are of watching his dad run out the
door whenever the surf was big, going to the beach and seeing him
ride these big, blue-water reef waves, and wanting to be part of
the game.
In January this year, as much of Australia’s east coast was
raked by a powerful south swell, Russ was dragged along the bottom
of a fav reef and a hole was cut near his arm’s brachial artery,
the limb’s flexor muscle exposed.
The last six months have been relatively blood free.
This video, which premiered yesterday, will be of interest to
any jury looking for evidence of who might be Australia’s best
big-wave surfer.
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Dim and Steph, principals in Surfing.
Watch: Australian filmmaker smashes
surfing’s crushing insularity with all-girl full-length film,
“Rowdy, Brash, Smart-Mouthed!”
By Derek Rielly
A propulsive and vivid paean to the surfing of
Stephanie Gilmore, Nikki Van Dijk, Tyler Wright, Macy Callaghan and
Dimity Stoyle.
The Gold Coast filmmaker Dan Scott, noted for his
slow-motion cuts on Instagram, has released, after much ado, his
paean to the surfing of Stephanie Gilmore, Nikki Van Dijk,
Tyler Wright, Macy Callaghan and Dimity Stoyle.
Over the course of twenty-seven minutes, “Surfing” centres on
the extreme athletic action of the aforementioned surfers, with
particuliar attention paid to the seven-time world champion
Stephanie Gilmore, whose cool reserve masks a ferociously
competitive will.