Living miles from the beach polishes a man's character…
I remember when this shot of Lochie Rombouts electrified my spinal cord. It was a year or two ago. Didn’t know who it was. Figured it was some kid in Hawaii, maybe Pipe. The shot was backlit; I didn’t see the wetsuit.
It wasn’t until this short here, the second in O’Neill’s three-part O’Riginal series, that I learned the name of the pilot. Lochie Rombouts. A surfer from out in the sticks who took it upon himself to make the hour-and-a-half commute as a kid to the ocean. To learn. To fall in love with surf.
Lochie made his name as a surfer with guts when he took his twelve-foot gun out to big North Avalon and grazed circles all around its nipples. Grabbing waves in fast little nips as if he were grabbing pinches of salt.
From the press release:
As soon as he was old enough he moved closer, but along with the increase in surf time came the trappings of being a young man fresh out of school, living the party life. Lachie struggled to balance the so-called good times on land with the actual good times in the water and eventually his mental health nosedived. Until, one day his home break lit up with the swell of a lifetime.
He’s one of the good ones. Watch.