Four hectares of protected natural bushland
that spans Great Ocean Road to Great Ocean. Four mill? Double it in
a decade. Y'just gotta find the initial wedge.
Gimme: Wayne Lynch’s $4 million Beach
House
By Derek Rielly
The original child surf prodigy proves the hoary ol
real estate cliche true, buy near the beach…
If you wanna buy real estate, pick a beach you
wanna surf and buy as big a hunk of dirt as close to it as you can.
Prices will dip, spike, and they’ll plateau, but over the years
it’ll turn into a bankroll that’ll get you through your harvest
years.
Lifestyle and cash? Who knew it was that easy!
Wayne Lynch, the child prodigy of the sixties, whose backside
jams in the movie Evolution were roughly 12 years ahead of
the rest of the world, is selling his four-and-a-half hectare
spread called Namatjira (named after the Aboriginal
artist) halfway between Aireys Inlet and Angelsea on the Great
Ocean Road in Victoria, a short drive from the burgers of Bells and
the Winkipop express channel.
It ain’t just one house either, there’s two! Both with
three-bedrooms. Perfect for the retired polygamous Mormon tired of
Utah’s chill or perhaps a luxury eco-terrorist camp for well-heeled
jihadis.
Wayne, his gal Lindy and their two kids Jarrah and Merinda are
hitting it to the North Coast hence the sale. See more photos right here! (Click!)
Come and greet the six-six Semi-Pro Kelly rode
(with vitality and courage!) to beat John John in last year's Pipe
Masters…
When Kelly Slater opened class at The Pipeline
on Saturday, December 14, in that eight-to-12-feet north-north-west
swell, it became apparent, very quickly, that he wasn’t on his
usual mini-sleds.
And so the first question you ask his long-time pal and advisor
Stephen “Belly” Bell is, why the length, why the thickness?
“‘Cause it was fucking massive,” he says.
Don’t you just love a slice of Australian ginger! Kelly is just
as succinct. “When there’s big barrels and all you gotta do is go
straight to get big scores you might as well be able to catch ’em,”
he says.
The surfboard is a two-year-old Channel Islands 6’6″ Semi-Pro
that Kelly had in the shed. Two weeks previously the 6’3″ he’d
ridden at Sunset and another two boards, including a potential 6’8″
for Pipe, were stolen from the side of his house.
And so on the final day of the Pipe Masters, in his house on the
beachfront there, prepping boards for his quarter-final, watching
Mick ride into his third world title, Kelly chose the 6’6″ to ride
with a couple of 6’7″s as backups.
And if you were watching the event, you would’ve seen Kelly make
a drop on a squared-up 10-foot ledge that, perhaps, would’ve been
impossible if he’d been on one of his shorter, more experimental
boards.
“He’ll disagree but for a few years his boards were too short,”
says Belly. “He went bigger, went back to length and it showed.
That late drop in the final. Anything shorter and he wouldn’t have
made it.”
Kelly ain’t one to disagree on that and says that in his first
heat he was riding a 5’11” and got breathed off on a couple he
could’ve made if only he’d been riding a longer board.
And Kelly says having four fins helped in the completion of the
wave. They engage quicker than a thruster, he says, and transition
faster at the bottom.
What you really wanna ask about that final day, and those last
few heats, was how Kelly would’ve performed, magic board or not, if
the world title was still a chance. Would his performance have been
as murderously thorough? As complete?
“I like to think I would’ve tried to keep the same head space
but things would’ve been different,” says Kelly. “There would’ve
been someone else in that semi-final against John John. John John,
likely, would’ve won that heat as well but everything would’ve been
different, the emotion, the focus. When I got into that final
John John was real patient while I was more taking chances, trying
to make things happen. It had gotten real slow and I figured the
best bet was to get moving and catch a bunch of waves. But if the
title was on the line I probably would’ve been looking at it
different, maybe catching a little bit better waves to start the
heat off. I like to think it would’ve gone the same but, who
knows?”
And let’s reflect a little on the day. “When you’re that close
to something in life and you don’t get it, it can be a tough pill
to swallow.”
But, still, you gave cake. “Yeah,” says Kelly. “I didn’t leave
anything on the table.”
(The dimensions of the Semi-Pro are 6’6″ x 18 1/4, 2 5/8″s.
11 1/4 nose, 13 1/14″ tail.)
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A surfboard that is short with a stubbish nose
and such a little tail. More fun that the vigorous operation of
your sex glands! A surfboard as a relief mechanism! Morgan
Maassen
Essential Hardware: Craig Anderson’s
Hypto-Krypto
By Derek Rielly
This spruced-up seventies-style design so initially
thrilled Ando he "didn't ride it for a year." Look at him now!
Five years ago, the shaper Hayden Cox presented
his team-rider Craig Anderson with a surfboard of a surprising hue.
Narrow in the tail and with a forward wide point it resembled
something from the seventies but spruced up with the carbon Fibre
Flex rails and a regular three-fin setup.
Craig was so thrilled “he didn’t touch it for a year,” says
Hayden.
“I hung onto the short board dream when I was younger,” Craig
says of his reticence to ride the Hypto. “I didn’t really dabble in
the tricky looking fish boards. I always like a clean, normal
looking surfboard ’cause I feel that shorter, atheistically weird
boards have an unclean, almost cheating, look to ’em.”
Until one day when a four-to-six-foot north swell was lighting
up the waves of Newcastle, where Craig lives, and he discovered the
Hypto’s not-so-subtle pleasures in the long lefts of Dixon Park.
“The banks were shallow coming from deep, no one out. I was really
excited on how much paddle speed I had. I could sit further out and
pick my lines. It was a great experience.”
After that he took it over to G-Land for a Quiksliver trip and
then to Deserts where he eventually snapped it and gave both pieces
of this magic surfboard to a local kid.
“Everyone likes that model a lot,” says Craig, who takes his
5’4″ Hypto everywhere including that top-to-bottom left-hander in
Namibia that features in Slow Dance. “There’s no other
board I’d have under my feet. Those boards make serious drops if
you commit to them. You don’t have to think about your feet when
you stand up. You have a bunch of paddle speed, you fly down the
line and then you do turns. You get a ton of waves. It rides fast
and it’s exciting. It suits my surfing.”
Hayden explains its genesis: “I was shaping a couple of
twin-fins and they had those traditional wide swallow-tail designs
and I found they went too straight. They didn’t want to fit into
the pocket. So I grabbed that same design and put my semi-gun
rounded pintail into it, blended the curves and… it
worked!”
Pulling in the tail, moving the wide point forward of the
middle, giving it a straight rocker and relying on the curve of the
outline to create manoeuvrability ain’t a secret to anyone, of
course. Dave Parmenter’s Stub Vectors in the nineties and Biolos’
round-nose-fish a few years later all combined the same magic
ingredients. But the Hypto-Krypto is important because it brought
the genre to a new generation. And with Craig Anderson, one of the
most admired surfers in the world riding ’em in such a sublime
fashion, they’ve become so popular they account for more than 30
per cent of Hayden’s worldwide sales.
“It connects with the wave really, really nicely,” says Hayden.
“The whole back end of the rocker is super flat. It basically
creates all the speed for you. It’s really the subtle features that
make it a special board. That is, traditional concepts but it’s
those refined features, where the apexes are in the tail, the roll
in the entry, where the vee exits, that make it able to be surfed
from one foot to double-overhead waves.”
“It’s good for the average surfer who wants to go fast and turn
it and have fun,” says Craig.
Hayden says it’s been a sell-out for three years and, even now,
with three factories, he’s still building “as many as we can” to
fulfil demand.
In five years Craig has owned exactly three Hyptos. “I snapped
the first at Deserts years ago, I just retired the one I surfed in
Slow Dance, that lasted me two years, and now I’m sitting
on a new one. The ol Hypto blesses me with its inner durability,
for some cosmic reason.
Craig’s dimensions: 5’4″ x 19 1/2″ x 2 3/8″ (27.2
litres in volume)
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Gimme: Owen Wright’s $1.6M Beach House
By Derek Rielly
Got a little under two mill? Buy Owen Wright's
almost beachfront, almost Lennox Heads crib!
Who doesn’t dream of chucking in the big-city
life for an existence punctuated by the morning call of
native birds, a honey-skinned and undemanding gal lolling around on
the futon massaging her clitoral branches, and empty warm-water
beachbreaks? Shelter, Morning of the Earth, they
knew the allure. Come, come, it’s a real-life garden of Eden.
I don’t buy it. I like the city. The noise, the people, the
constant incentive to improve or perish.
But maybe you’re different. Maybe you’ve got a little cash and
you want beachfront (or almost beachfront), you want warm and you
want empty. If this sounds like you, click here to find out about Owen Wright’s
surplus house at 3 Bradman Court, Skennars Head just near Lennox
Head and a short drive from Byron Bay.
Wright, the almost 25 year old, is currently rated 12th in the
world after sitting out most of 2013 with an injury, bought the
joint four years ago (for $1.4 mill) and has been letting it out as
a holiday rental at ‘tween three and five gees a week. The former
world number three (2011) also has a Federation-style house in
Byron Bay that he bought for $975,000 around the same time. The
year after those two purchases he bought a beachfront townhouse at
Thirroul on the NSW South-ish Coast for $600k.
You like this crib? It has a pool that meanders through the main
house, too. Luxury!
Negotiating tip: go in at one-two. BeachGrit
is guessing O is okay with taking a little hit. Y’buy property in
the provinces, you don’t expect to make a killing. Am I right?
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Epic: A German Surf Movie
By Derek Rielly
Santa Cruz-expat Ira Mowen's odd project about a
once-a-day wave that is, suddenly, in grave peril!
Can you imagine what it’s like to be a surfer living in
Berlin? Yeah, sure, you’ve got all those cultural hits
playing (marvel at the Brandenburg gate, the Reichstag, hunks of
the old Berlin Wall, stroll down the Kurfustendamm, hit the bars
and clubs) but old habits die the hardest.
Ira Mowen drifted into Berlin from the States and had soon
accrued all the attachments necessary for modern hipsterdom (moto,
cute cams, twin fin, mat, journals, Polaroids, long hair parted
delicately in the middle and accessorised with beard etc) but was
missing the most important ingredient, waves to shred.
And then after six years, there it was. The massive wake created
by a poorly designed ship coming back to port, once a day.
Head-high, fast and fat.
“Like a head-high swell hitting 38th, in Capitola in Santa
Cruz,”, says Mowen.
Except it’s real hard to catch. So hard Mowen had a seven-foot,
twin-keel Simmons-style sled built for the joint.
Anyway, the ship that creates the wave is being replaced by a
ship that’s sleeker, faster, with a hull that ain’t got the same
gas-guzzling drag. But sleeker equals no wave. And so Mowen is
making a film (and selling tees, books, framed photos too) about
the experience.
Throw some cash at his Kickstarter (click here) and at least let’s get some pretty
pictures of it before it vanishes…