Jamie Mitchell on wiping out on a sixty-footer and being caught inside by something even more disquieting…
Yeah, so this wave is a year old, almost to the day.
You’ve heard about it. You even read about it on BeachGrit (click here).
But what a wave of nervous joy it gives to hear Jamie Mitchell, the 38-year-old big-wave surfer and peerless board paddler (10-times winner of the 32-mile Molokai to Oahu race), describe paddling into a sixty-footer, getting bounced then facing a wave that is eighty-plus!
…died of fright?
Possible for sure, drowned definitely.
I would be dead.