Paddle out right now and get prog!
1994 was twenty-one years ago. It is old enough to know better but still too young to care. But look at Tom Curren, here, ripping a little 5’7 fish on some big waves! He surfs so smooth and it looks so fun and rolly but then so barrelly. I wish I was doing that right now.
But guess what? I can! I am going to paddle out right now on my little 5’2 Vulcan and pretend that it is glassy and barreling even though it is 2-3 with crap winds and diminishing swell and 17 SUPers.
That is why we watch surf videos. “Hey mom, guess what? Not only am I a professional surfer…I’m Tom Curren!”
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