A beautifully intimate ten-minute short as snatched
by best friend Jason "Mini" Blanchard…
In this intimate portrait of a surfer suddenly back in
the game, we see Dane Reynolds preparing for a trip to the
Mentawai Islands.
He is captured at his barn-style house in Carpinteria,
California, the one he shares with his girl Courtney and their son
Sammy Boo and their triumvirate of dogs (Pam, Boogie and Truffle)
and in moments reminiscent of the nineties film Kelly Slater in
Black and White he is asked what he has for breakfast and
ponders such weighty questions as whether or not to eat before a
flight thereby negating the need to eat the airline’s own food.
The trouble is, Dane shrieks, the one time he ate before a
flight the food served was so good he had to eat it! Absurd!
There’s a little surf in this short, although not enough if it’s
surf you’re coming for, and it finishes with wise counsel from its
maker Jason “Mini” Blanchard.
Mini: Have a good trip… rip
Dane: I’ll try.
Mini: All you have to do is rip.
Dane: That’s what I’ll do then.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Hawaii is a must-visit destination for any person
wanting to end it all under a rainbow. “Suicide tourism” is what
it’s called and it is big business on the big island (and all the
other islands too). Suicides are the second-leading cause on
non-resident death in Hawaii after drowning.
Suicide Tourism Booms in Hawaii!
By Chas Smith
Come for the waves, stay for...ever!
Hawaii is, without doubt, a must-visit
destination for any true surfer. From Kauai to Maui to Oahu’s famed
North Shore there is no shortage of amazing waves to discover and
aloha spirit to experience. Welcome to Paradise… as the most famous
book ever written is partially titled. (buy here!)
Hawaii, though, is also a must-visit destination for any person
wanting to end it all under a rainbow. “Suicide tourism” is what
it’s called and it is big business on the big island (and all the
other islands too). Suicides are the second-leading cause on
non-resident death in Hawaii after drowning. Traveling to exotic
locales to polish off a life well, or maybe poorly, lived. “I think
a lot of people might make decisions based on what they think about
a place…” suicide expert Kenneth Tardiff told Honolulu’s
CivilBeat.com. “…Hawaii is a really impressive place to think about
and so is New York City. Suicide can be a very emotional
thing.”
The Empire State Building, Golden Gate Bridge and Niagara Falls
are all leading destinations but so are Waikiki’s many hotel
balconies. Those are the most common places for visitors to
utilize . Educating hotel staff as to recognizing people who
may be suicidal is an important step but the subject, overall, is a
difficult one that many don’t want to discuss. Maraya Grambs,
though, the executive director of Mental Heath America of Hawaii,
though, told CivilBeat.com that public awareness is key to
preventing suicides. So there you are. Read more here.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Last Friday, June 19, the Reunion Island-born surfer
Jeremy Flores was pitched head-first into the reef at Lakey Peak. A
tube gone wrong? A takeoff awry? "A fucken air," says Jeremy. "All
frothing to learn all these tricks and ended up landing head-first
on dry reef."
Jeremy Flores: “No major brain
damage!”
By Derek Rielly
And despite catastrophic facial wounds, says he
wants to be back for Teahupoo…
Last Friday, June 19, world number 10 Jeremy Flores
face-planted into the reef in Sumbawa,
Indonesia.
In four-to-five-foot low-tide waves at Lakey Peak, Jeremy tasted
a little rock after… what… a tube gone awry? A mangled takeoff?
“A fucken air,” he says. “All frothing to learn all these new
tricks and ended up landing head-first onto dry reef.”
When an emergency helicopter came to take him to the BIMC
hospital in Bali, Jeremy posted a photo (the one on the left above)
on his Instagram account (@floresjeremy) with the message: “Worst
24h ever. Hit my head on the reef in the middle of no where in
Indo, lost My memories for more than an hour…deep cuts all over My
head & face… 24h later the Helicopter finally came get me to take
me to an international hospital where i just got 2h of surgery on
My face…the good news is there is no fracture…I would post a
picture of My actual face but it would choc everyone so i won’t lol
#nevergiveup”
So what happened after he hit the reef?
“I lost my memory for an hour and twenty minutes,” he says.
“Didn’t where I was or who I was. Wiggolly Dantas and Jake Paterson
were there to hold me and take me back to land where I waited 20
hours for a chopper to come pick me up. So I had to stay up all
night ’cause I wasn’t sure if I could sleep. I was super scared to
lose my memory again. Wiggolly was there all night making sure I
was alright. Then the next day, the chopper finally came and took
me to the hospital where I finally had surgery on my face.”
Them sure is deep cuts.
“Thirty stitches on and around my face,” says Jeremy. “No major
brain damage.”
Right now, Jeremy is back in France and doing tests there
“’cause there are small fractures in two different places on my
face, under my eye and on my cheek.”
I ask, have you lost your looks?
“I was putting pressure on the surgeon the whole time, telling
him the whole time he better make me look good.”
Were you worried you might end up looking like Catherine
Deneuve, the once-beautiful French actress now reduced to
caricature? (Click here!)
“More like Frankenstein,” he says. “I’m still doing tests and
MRI’s and shit. It’s pretty fucked but the cuts are healing super
quick. Nothing if official yet but I’m hoping to be back for
Teahupoo. But maybe sooner! Or later. Too early to say.”
In the meantime, here’s a little teaser from when Jeremy’s face
was whole and he was ripping New Zealand.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Breezy lil Cali kid? Yeah, kinda… let's prise
apart the lid to his world!
A window into Andrew Doheny’s world
By Derek Rielly
Let's get to know Droid! A Californian surf star
with… layers!
Andrew Doheny is your typical 20-something
surf-star from Newport Beach, California. He is
anxious around strangers, enjoys speed-walking, drinks whiskey
and Diet Coke on aeroplanes and admits to getting… bummed…quite a
lot.
BeachGrit likes Andrew aka Droid very much. We liked
his cameo in Cluster (but too short!), we like the flavour
of his surfing (drop-knee slides) and we like his alternative pro
surfing universe (sometimes contest, not always contest).
We think you’ll like too.
Below, is a fine documentary-style piece by French
magazine Desillusion.
… and below that,
his movie Metal Neck…
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Sean “Poopies” McInerney…skis… six-foot
Off the Wall. "I'm so afraid of big waves," he says.
JOB: “We’re Going Skiing at Off the
Wall!”
By Derek Rielly
Pipeline’s Jamie O’Brien tows best pal Poopies into
six-foot OTW… on water-skis!
Who needs pals like Jamie O’Brien? In the
latest episode of Who is JOB 5.0, we see the
thirty-something Jamie towing his younger pal Sean “Poopies”
McInerney into a series of bombs at Off the Wall on…water-skis.
Now this ain’t particularly friendly OTW.
It’s six-ish feet, a little wild. And Poopies, the kid from
Carlsbad who has made a career as Jamie’s fall guy in the online
series Who is JOB, actually nails it.
When I’d interviewed Poopies back in April, he’d told me, “I’m
so afraid of big waves… I’m not a big wave surfer. Jamie is, but
for me it’s terrifying. I just try and make the best out of it and
charge as hard as I can.”
