“That shark fucked Julian up…”

This was his year. But maybe next year is his year too!

How wonderful is an older brother? I am one so I know. We are the best thing on earth. Founts of knowledge. Rocks on which to build. I ran into Julian Wilson’s older brother Bart today and we had a nice, if short, chat. Bart is a good man. Extremely funny, mischievous and quick. I have always liked him very much.

Bart (on Julian's right) is a wonderful growling wolf and the maddest hui a brother could ever have!
Bart (on Julian’s right) is a wonderful growling wolf and the maddest hui a brother could ever have!

Anyhow, Bart said, “That shark fucked Julian up….” and I cut him off, asking, “His emotions?” but no. Not his emotions. “…his world title run.” Bart continued. And wow. I had never thought of the enormity of it.

I had picked Julian Wilson to win it all this year. His surfing was sharp, building to a crescendo. The South African final against Mick he was really set to dig a heel into the neck and proclaim his arrival. But that damned shark came and tickled Mick and instead of first, Julian was handed and equal second. And even though he still has a mathematical shot at winning being crowned champ, the prettiest boy on tour lost his momentum. He started the year with a 2nd at Snapper, scored a 5th at Margies, another 2nd in Fiji and, bam, was ready to explode!

He raced into the final at J-Bay, scored an fine first wave and then……sharknado. Two 13ths a 3rd and a 25th later he is 7th. Mathematical but…you know.

Julian is still a fresh 27 years old. Entering his competitive prime. And maybe next year he will, in fact, win it all. But that damned fucking shark, no? Do you think he would have won it all this year? I did. And I do.

Mason Ho

Movie: Mason Ho Bursts With Vitality!

Blow a whistle! The little Hawaiian got some new tricks… 

I wonder what would happen if we ever lost Mason Ho to the WSL. Would he still be the same Mason, clapping his opponents and flying into through those post-interviews sounding like he’d just swallowed the formula for eternal awesome?

Or would he, eventually, be so beaten down he couldn’t sit straight and, if he ever got through a heat, he’d spit out the usual boring chestnuts?

I have a feeling we’ll never have to worry. People talk about the virtues of a no-nonsense approach. I like nonsense.

Watch Mason Ho’s latest clip!

This is in brazil 5 mins from the recent contest area.
thought it was fun practicing there with no body around.
doesn’t get better then just you and a friend out surfing at such a FUN & beautiful zone.
wish it had the right air wind.

surfing – mason ho & LB
filmed by rory pringle

thanks rip curl, …lost surfboards, etnies, arnette, and sector9 !!

baby kine search


ICBM launch

An ICBM Just Flew Over My Head!

Cyrus Sutton and his brush with a nuclear-capable Trident missile in the Mojave desert…

Two days ago, the filmer and surfer Cyrus Sutton, who is currently alone in the Mojave desert working on a documentary about GMOs in Hawaii, emailed me a photo of what appeared to be a meteor shower above his head.

“This just happened?!” he said.

Social lit up, as it does, with theories that it was a nuclear bomb, maybe a comet, some kind of alien invasion or part of “secret military testing.”

I figured it was part of the annual Taurid meteor shower and told Cyrus so but, yesterday, it was revealed that it was actually a nuclear-capable Trident missile test-fired by the US Navy.

Now I’ve been around a bit, I’ve had my share of freak-outs, some drug-induced, some simply from an over-arching timidity that I just can’t seem to shake. I couldn’t even imagine what it’d be like to be alone in the desert, at sunset, when, out of nowhere, a gigantic missile roars over your head.

Cyrus does.

“The first thing that went through my mind as that it was an alien death ray or something. It was NOT a comet or a meteor,” he says.

“It was NOT a comet or a meteor. It started ascending as a glowing orange ball. Then it burst up high emitting huge radiating bubbles that looked blue green like the northern lights, its point was fierce white light like a star. It zoomed northward leaving an aurora like glow in its wake.

“It was over LA. I was 150 miles east in no-man’s land. I remember thinking of that Twilight Zone episode where the guy is in the bank vault when the nuke detonates, he goes outside to see that everyone is gone.”

“Then I thought, holy shit I’ve got to get a picture of this thing. By the time I got my camera it was blue and green and white and bubbling outward quickly eventually taking over a good part of the sky. I missed the first few shots (blurry and underexposed) fingers were trembling and I couldn’t think straight. Then I got my tripod out of the back and got some proper shots. After it disappeared only a large dab of turquoise remained where it first exploded near the band of the milky way.

“I drove 10 miles into town to poach the wifi at the local library to see what it was. There was nothing in the news but social media was lighting up. A bunch of people posted phone shots and were asking the same questions. I posted a photo asking if anyone saw it and there were reports from SF to SD and clear east to Vegas so the entire southern half of Southern California caught the show.

“On the news they are saying it was a comet or a meteor but meteors don’t rise then explode, change color and blast off into space in a piercing white light. The next day the media said it was the trusty US military testing an intercontinental ballistic missile. That makes a lot more sense. A lot of people were saying it was aliens but I don’t know. Probably some classified military star wars shit.”

Paranoia ensues! 

Photos and video here! 

Someone writes a song about it! 

I Love LA! I Love it!

My brain's about to pop!

I’ve been in LA less than twenty-four hours and my brain’s about to pop.

This is where I’m from, I’m a product of my environment. I can handle whatever phoniness the Caulfields love to claim, and status conscious bullshit don’t bother me a bit.

Why would it? Just empty nonsense. You want to live through your purchases that’s fine, don’t effect me one bit.

I miss Hawaii, that simmering violence lurking just beneath the surface. The fact that if you honk your horn at someone the moment the light turns green there’s a far better than zero chance the driver will throw it in park, drag you out the window, and bash you into the groun

But the rudeness… the million petty self-centered atrocities I’ve witnessed since I arrived late last night. I knew they were coming, that I’d need to stay calm. Let it flow off my back like water off a duck, or just pay it no never mind, move on and forget.

But I can’t.

I miss Hawaii, that simmering violence lurking just beneath the surface. The fact that if you honk your horn at someone the moment the light turns green there’s a far better than zero chance the driver will throw it in park, drag you out the window, and bash you into the ground.

Small island, tiny population.  Cross some motherfucker once, you’ll run into him again and again. There’s no escape from consequence, and that suits me just fine.

I understand LA’s not so bad. Not really. Not compared to the vast majority of the world.

But I got out, moved on, found someplace better to call home.

Thank my non existent lord and savior that I’ve only got two days left in my sentence.

Saint: Mick Fanning warms a heart!

It has been a busy year for the possible 2015 world champ...but not too busy for love!

Professional surfing, on the World Tour, is a grind. Oh sure, the life is not nearly as taxing as, say, working a coal mine or teaching English to native Chinese speakers but still. It is a twelve month per year gig with precious little time off, which makes Mick Fanning’s latest splash such a heartwarming one.

There is a sixteen-year-old boy named Ben Beasley from Adelaide, Australia, who was recently diagnosed with a brain tumor and has been undergoing chemotherapy, a total drag by all accounts. His family told him they were going on a little trip to the Gold Coast and Ben thought it was “random” until out popped Mick Fanning, Ben’s favorite surfer!

Mick is an ambassador of the Starlight Children’s Foundation, a charity that makes sick kids’ dreams come true and Ben, of course, dreamed of meeting with the three, maybe four time world champ.

“Even to just get a photo with [Fanning] has been a dream of mine for a long time…” the young man told the Brisbane Times.

Better yet, though, Mick paddled Ben and his twin brother out and the three surfed for hours.

If you needed a little pick me up, which professional surfer would you want to spend time with?

Mick with Ben and family.
Mick with Ben and family.