Kelly Slater talks politics, Ralph Nader and
conspiracy!
Last night was the official grand opening of
the United States of America’s 2016 presidential election. The Iowa
Caucus! And if you are not from the US/don’t understand what a
“caucus” is that’s ok! Nobody does! Quite basically, both Democrats
and Republicans go state by state winnowing their fields to get
down to one candidate each and then those candidates bash into the
general election and voila! A president!
I was glued to the television all night watching the returns.
Politics is a fascinating game. I love each and every nuance, each
and every turn of that damning page. Will Bernie Sanders smash the
Clinton powerhouse? How far will Donald J Trump ride a wave of
populist rage? Can Ted Cruz tuck any more smug into his cellulite?
All of it. Every jot.
Of course the country should have something bigger/better/funner
than a simple two-party system but it don’t, much to Kelly Slater’s
chagrin. Listen to the man talk politics here and also about the
global cabal! Do you agree with him? Do you agree with his nod
toward a broad conspiracy? Would you vote for his presidency? Since
he is not running, though, who would you vote for? Are you a Marco
Rubio gal? Do those ears stir your loins?
It is great to watch Kelly talk politics but my favorite part of
the clip is when his interviewer tells Travis Lee (I presume),
“We’re in Hawaii. You can do what you want. It’s a free place.
That’s what I love about this place here. It’s kind of very easy
going.”
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Warshaw on Little: “He’s
indestructible!”
By Derek Rielly
The noted writer Matt Warshaw on the dazzling
legacy of Brock Little.
There’s a lot of folks coming to terms with
Hawaiian Brock Little’s illness. One of ’em is the surf historian,
and one of the more underrated writers in the game, San Francisco’s
Matt Warshaw.
BeachGrit:I’m pretty numb to people I
don’t know getting cancer, dying etc, but for some reason hearing
that it was Brock, the ultimate big-wave stud, shook me. Why do you
think that is?
Matt Warshaw: The Instagram photo, maybe? I found out he was
sick three or four weeks ago, but when I saw the picture yesterday
it just buckled me. The shock of the photo, then Brock saying “I
have cancer, it sucks,” which is such a total Brock thing to say.
So the two things together, the awful photo and the totally normal
voice . . .
When he rode for Gotcha in the ‘80s, he’s drive up at my house
in San Clemente and pull two huge cardboard boxes of free gear from
the back seat, dump it all in a huge pile and just crack up, all
these free clothes when he just cruised around all day in trunks
and no shirt. Michael Tomson was a fuckin god back then, terrifying
and all-powerful, and Brock would come back from a meeting with
Michael and do this wicked imitation of him and all his kowtowing
minions, and it was just blasphemy.
Yeah, agreed. But it’s more than that…
He was indestructible for all those years.
More than that.
He laughs at everything. How serious all the big-wave guys are.
The idea of getting a paycheck for surfing. All the bullshit surf
industry politics. He laughs at it and loves it at the same time,
which is the perfect attitude. Brock loves being part of it all,
lives for gossip, puts himself in the middle of everything. Then
he’ll step outside of it and make fun of it all. When he rode for
Gotcha in the ‘80s, he’s drive up at my house in San Clemente and
pull two huge cardboard boxes of free gear from the back seat, dump
it all in a huge pile and just crack up, all these free clothes
when he just cruised around all day in trunks and no shirt. Michael
Tomson was a fucking god back then, terrifying and all-powerful,
and Brock would come back from a meeting with Michael and do this
wicked imitation of him and all his kowtowing minions, and it was
just blasphemy. And hilarious. But anyway, for some reason, apart
from him being a friend, the idea of a guy with that perfect of an
attitude getting cut down by cancer just seems especially cruel and
wrong.
Years back, I was doing these ads for Surfing Life where
I’d get famous surfers to talk about why they read the mag. You
know, I read ASL because… Brock said, “because it
doesn’t take surfing seriously.” Ever since, I felt he rode a
similar wavelength and I’ve based my career on that
quote…
That’s it exactly.
The idea of a guy with that perfect of an attitude getting cut
down by cancer just seems especially cruel and wrong.
And so damn good looking. The sorta guy I’d keep real
far away from my gal. A little busted, a brutal handsome
edge.
After Chas did that little piece for you about Balaram
Stack and Christie Brinkley, I followed with a 10 Most Glam couples involving a
surfer. Brock and Kate Bosworth came in #8. She flew
to Hawaii to do Blue
Crush and the producers handed her off to
Brock to show her the island, teach her a little about surfing, and
he got the gig was he was the “responsible” surfer on the set,
right? She was like 19 at the time. Look at the two of them! Brock
said they kept it platonic for a couple of weeks. I cannot imagine
the willpower involved. The pheromones just filling the air. They
should have bred. The word would be a better and better-looking
place.
And you know, while yeah, women threw themselves at Brock, he
also had the worst luck with love. Heartbroken more often then not,
which is how we bonded in the first place. For 10 or 15 years, one
of us or both of us was needing to spill guts about the latest love
disaster. The night of the 1990 Eddie, when he got second, he
called me and spent like 10 minutes on the contest, then sighed and
got to the real point of the call, which was that his recent
ex-girlfriend was dating a lifeguard. He always wanted to be
married, and he always wanted to start a family, from way
back.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Opinion: Decide the world title at
Jaws?
By Rory Parker
Who would struggle and fail? Who would die?
The hardest part of pumping out a constant flow of words
about surfing is coming up with ideas to write about.
There are periods when it feels like there’s nothing to say,
beyond, “Hey, check out this radical three minute web clip.”
And I can only take serving up so much pablum before I get bored
with what I’m doing, and if I’m not enjoying writing there’s really
no point. There definitely ain’t much money.
Like, Mick’s getting divorced. Ugh, such a non-story. If it were
contentious, if he was whomping on her or she were claiming he
brought home the clap after after some filthy top ten group
grope-and-poke, then right on, let’s go full media feeding
frenzy.
Should the world title be decided at Jaws? Of course not,
that’d be a terrible idea. Getting A+ quality swell for big wave
events is more difficult than herding cats, and the vast majority
of the ‘CT would just struggle and fail. Maybe die, more likely
dodge sets and basically waste a million quality waves.
But normal divorces are boring, and kind of sad. Absolute terror
if you’re the primary breadwinner. Or so I assume. I’m not
too worried about a divorce in my future, the wife and I have been
together since we were kids, got no pre-nup, and I’ve made it very
clear I’d expect her to keep me in the lifestyle to which I’ve
become accustomed. I feel I am due, nay, am entitled to,
half. If the missus thinks she’d be getting an
amicable dissolution she doesn’t know me at all. God bless gender
equality.
When it’s slow, and I’m struggling, Derek’ll gift me a little
prompt and that’s usually enough to spark some inspirado. Because
there’s always something to write about, and a good
suggestion is enough to get the words flowing. I don’t think the
actual act of writing is that difficult, especially considering the
relatively low standard to which the surf media is held.
Like juggling, once you’ve got the knack it’s easy to keep
things moving. And once you get me started I’ll happily blather on
for hours.
Today’s suggestion was, “Should the world title be decided at
Jaws?”
Of course not, that’d be a terrible idea. Getting A+ quality
swell for big wave events is more difficult than herding cats, and
the vast majority of the ‘CT would just struggle and fail. Maybe
die, more likely dodge sets and basically waste a million quality
waves.
I’ll admit that watching the beachbreak killer contingent endure
white knuckle heats could be entertaining, but not enough to fill
24-ish hours of webcast.
I do think that the tour could benefit from
including at least one deep water power wave. Something that
requires thick, seven-foot plus, sleds. Holds you down, beats your
ass, leaves you wrecked and ruined on the inside gasping for air
staring down a looming set.
Sunset is an obvious choice. The spot has a legacy, already got
the permits and infrastructure in place. Seeding 44 guys into the
HIC Pro would be relatively easy, and it’s a consistent enough wave
to count on.
I’ll admit it’s an often boring event, but it manages to produce
at a few moments of brilliance every year. And while it doesn’t
make for great video it does produce killer stills. And injecting a
bit of the ol’ waterman spirit back into the tour would be
nice.
Although, man, the word waterman…
Talk about taking a good term and marketing it into the ground.
Always something to aspire to be, but not a label you get to bestow
on yourself. You know, you spend a lifetime learning to surf,
paddle, dive, fish, play in a swirly wet hell that’ll kill you
without caring.
Then other people call you a waterman, you downplay your
ability, but smile inside because it means you’ve accomplished
something. Something that’s kind of narcissistic and comes at a
heavy price and doesn’t really make you a better person or more
successful at real life, but is still worth feeling proud about.
Like owning a big thick cock, if it’s true you don’t need to talk
about it.
I blame the SUP crowd.
They’re the ones who emblazoned the term on every epoxy import
piece of shit they could get their hands on, silk screened it on
t-shirts they flipped for $50 a pop to
spare-tired-middle-life-crisis cases looking to sweep their way
into a lifestyle that’s slightly less meaningless than however they
wasted the last few decades.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Rumor: The future of the WSL!
By Chas Smith
The same money behind the World Surf League also
funds Kelly Slater's wave pool!
We live in the information age, don’t we
though, and this usually means Internet and blog and iPhone. Funny,
though, that mouth and bar are still so wonderfully effective.
I was sitting, for example, just two days ago in a Dallas, Texas
airport bar drinking vodka soda and fielding sneers for ordering
such a thing in Dallas, Texas even though it was just an airport
bar. The men next to me were talking. I was listening. And then we
all started talking. It turned out that they allegedly knew the
money behind your favorite surf league, and one thing led to
another and guess what that money is also investing in?
Kelly Slater’s wave pool!
From what they knew, it seemed like all the money.
And everything snapped into perfect place.
The World Surf League will build wave pools across the world
that develop not only a taste for surfing but a consistent place to
contest events. I’d imagine the top tier would still take to the
ocean but I’d also imagine that most juniors, QS and lots of
specialty one-offs would pop in Des Moines, Dubuque, Denver and,
yes, Dallas.
The taste, though, would be more important. The World Surf
League Wave Centers would have stores that could sell Glenn Hall
singlet (read here), teach the parents
how safe and healthy and concussion free the shred is and create a
hungering froth in thousands, millions, billions of inland
children. They would go home after two hour barrel sessions, flip
on the iPad and watch Glenn Hall get pitted while wearing his
singlet.
Kelly Slater, of course, will make the only board that works for
the pools, those hideous banana things, and surf will be the
biggest thing on earth and all of CEO Paul Speaker’s gobbledygook
will make perfect sense. Bigger than the NFL!
Those who cling to the ocean and think this model won’t work
will be viewed the same as those who insisted that the Internet was
just a fad. The future!
The only trouble I see with all this raddness is that CEO Paul
Speaker don’t surf, literally, and might be missing a little
something about how the addiction is actually built. Then again, I
didn’t get online until basically yesterday.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Brock Little: “I’ve had a great life!”
By Derek Rielly
A telephone call to the Hawaiian big-wave stud
Brock Little on his cancer diagnosis…
A couple of hours ago, I called the Hawaiian big-wave
stud Brock Little. I was still reeling from his
Instagram post from two days ago where he announced his cancer
diagnosis, and wanted to hear his voice, to see how he was handling
it all.
I mean, Brock Little? Not even forty-nine years old and
hit by the Spanish Dancer? The same guy who laughed at Waimea while
others grimaced?
Some of the questions might seem a little insensitive, what sort
of cancer do you have, what existential thoughts do you have, but
Brock is a man of war, fearless and skilled in battle. I knew he’d
take ’em as they were meant, as the curiosity of a lifelong
fan.
In the seven-minute call, Brock talks about his prognosis (not
good), when he was diagnosed (one month ago), why he told the world
via IG (“When you’re out there looking like shit, it’s pretty
obvious you have fucking cancer”) and how he feels about it all
(“I’m so stoked. I’ve had a great life and what I’ve lived through
and what I’ve done in my life, crazy good times.”)…