The King of Kirra!
It only took me six months, but I’ve finally closed Sean Doherty’s MP: The Life of Michael Peterson. The book is a biographical homage to Australia’s enigmatic surf hero, Michael Peterson.
A summary:
Michael’s life was the product of a harrowing assault. A three-man gang-rape against 19-year-old Joan Peterson. Joan kept the truth of Michael’s origins a secret for most of his life, to “protect him”.
Despite MP’s ill begotten conception, the man was destined for greatness. A physical specimen and handsome to boot, young MP plowed his way through hordes of Australia’s barely-legal beauties. He continued this trend into his late-twenties.
But in the grand scheme of things, women were tertiary on Michael’s list of favorite pastimes. There was an unbreakable tie for first between surfing and marijuana. The weed calmed his mind while the surfing electrified his soul.
Michael’s performances at his home break were revolutionary to the point that he became known as the King of Kirra. Not long after, he was considered the best surfer in Australia, and briefly, the world.
While Michael’s successes grew his legend, they also spawned his demons. Contest winnings meant money for drugs, and weed quickly became an insufficient high. At the time the Goldcoast was in the midst of a minor heroin explosion, and Michael lived well within the blast radius.
And while dope is enough to do most people in, for Michael, the worst side effect was the awakening of a sleeping giant — schizophrenia.
The downfall of Michael Peterson was a long and and grueling process. He got worse, he got better, then got worse again but the trajectory was always trending downward. Eventually Michael went to jail, then a psych ward, then his mom’s house, then a bunch of other psych wards then his mom’s house again. He died in 2012 at the age of 60.
This is a very very VERY condensed version of Doherty’s tale but surely you get the gist. Incredibly talented and troubled man takes on the world and goes down swinging. Wonderful!
I found this telling of MP’s life story to be extremely honest and thorough. No one could accuse Doherty of over-writing the biography, as it falls into a very simplistic structure and diction, but he concluded the book beautifully. Tied together all the loose ends and showed his true ability as a thinker and scribe.
If you’re looking for a mind-blowing piece of literature, this book is not for you. If you want to learn a shitload about Australian surfing history and the man the Mick Fanning calls God, read MP.
Now, there’s just one thing I must get off my chest.
Pretty much everyone in the book says MP was the best surfer they’d ever seen. That his speed and tube riding and carves were entirely unmatched. To this day, Michael is considered maybe the best to ever ride Kirra. Yet, whenever I see videos of MP, he looks… very average. Off-balance and erratic. Not someone I’d care to watch surf.
I realize it was a different time period with different standards, but I can easily appreciate the abilities of same-era surfers MR and Rabbit Bartholomew.
So am I blind or stupid or all three?
I never claimed to be an expert on australian surfing history. I simply pulled a picture from google that was claimed to be of MP. I’m not sure why that’s so offensive to you…
I do find it interesting that my opinion on MP’s surfing was taken so personally by the majority of our (presumably) elder Australian readers. You all must really love the guy!
Millennials are into that sort of thing. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Rough.
I hardly think such a harmless faux pas deserves this sort of response…
https://uploads.disquscdn.c… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Pre-Kong Karate hands [MP in top photo, Rabbit below]
the google told me MP, but who knows!
Well Fucking done..yes, that’s Rabbit, but something tells me the in the original photo the surfer was credited as ‘beaver’, a rodent anyway..I’m going to check this up asap. Go to the top of the class.
https://www.google.com.au/s…
Dane Beaver! That wily goofy footer…
Tune in next week when Mike reviews Wave Warriors II…
MP Kirra ’72 // MF Kirra 2013 on a replica of MP’s single fin. Imagine witnessing surfing like that in 1972. It doesn’t matter if Ciaramillenial can’t see what makes MP’s surfing special, Mick does. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Man I can’t even go here.
Please do, it will be spectacular!
“Career” killer
killing ciaramilenial’s career in surf journalism would be like killing MP’s heroin dealer
What, great for surfing?
Better for both Michaels!
Beyond the tone and lack of historical perspective in this post, let the record show that this book is 14 years old.
Does that mean we’ll get a review of Chas’ new book in 2031? Fingers crossed!
Had a search on Amazon. Is this the chap? https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
good to see you back Chazz
Off-balance and erratic? I was warming to you Michael, I really was. I have never read a single article by a surf journalist in the history of this ridiculous game who has ever described MP’s surfing in this way. Personality wise yes, surfing never. Is this description merely Aussie click bait coz I know how this BeachGrit shit works….
the book talks about how MP’s approach was all about trying to jam a million little turns into waves to bolster his scores. this is what I’m referring to…
Don’t back down Michael, I’m enjoying this! The OUTRAGE! How dare you ask a question! Promise me you’ll review “Searching for Tom Curren” tomorrow!
Jimmy! The only one who understands me!
That’s called heat strategy.
Blind and stupid should be two.
Not sure about the first, as I’ve never seen MP surf, but in this case, should the second be included?
Michael, you’re wrong. This is the guy who invented deep tube riding. Coming through and over foam balls at Kirra when head dips were considered cutting edge. His Morning of the Earth cutback is the pre-eminent iconic image of surfing in the pre-thruster era. All on equipment that was, in your generation’s eyes, unforgiving and borderline un-rideable. If you compare him to other surfers of that era and how they surfed at that time, you will see they were wriggling where MP was carving.
MP had many flaws, and wasn’t well suited to being a role model for anything other than what he did on a wave. But, at the time, what he did on the waves was as far ahead as JJF was at Margaret River. And for inspiring the Australian domination of world surfing for the next 20 odd years, he deserves a little more credit and indeed, respect.
Yeah… thats what everyone says, I just don’t see it! Can you link a video that demonstrates his brilliance?
Im not anti-MP by any means, if anything I want the legend to be true, it’s just the glorification of his surfing is confusing based on what I’ve seen.
C’mon man, you know the rules.. Thou shalt not speak ill of a surf industry legend!
Maybe pretend to be a proper journalist and talk to MR and Rabbit. They will set you straight on how good he was. The doco Searching for Michael Peterson will also help your education.
that doco was far superior to the biography
Agreed. Doherty doesn’t move me in any meaningful way.
he’s already acknowledged that everyone says MP was the king. what he’s saying is the video evidence he’s seeing doesn’t support. so what’s the best michael peterson clip besides morning of the earth?
Searching for Michael Peterson documentary. Plenty of ground breaking surfing for the time.
will try to find!
It’s contextual as much as anything. Have a look at Morning of the Earth and look at the ‘grunt’ in his surfing while the others are still flowing with the waves. Sure if you compare him with what is happening now, it looks incredibly dated. But if you saw him pull into some of the cyclone swells at firing Kirra, looking into the barrel and thought, there’s no way he’s coming out and you started paddling, only to hear the piercing whistle from the middle of the foam ball letting you know he was still powering through, you’d get that it wasn’t just glorification, it was in the truest sense of the word, legendary.
“the piercing whistle from the middle of the foam ball” made the hair on the back of my neck get all tingly.
In reality Michael Ciaramillenial sees MP’s surfing brilliance, he’s just comment baiting by denying it. It’s all part of the job.
MP 73 74 75 unbeaten in every event in Australia ! AI unbeatable 02 03 04
Its pretty obvious Laird is the best ever. Just ask him.
there was a bloke named Wayne Lynch who was better!
I was there during the rise and fall of MP surfing .I witnessed most of the good days ,quiet a small crew surfing over the gold coast points.you knew everyone and word spread when anyone was killing it over the swell sessions..MP was always the man every surf, every break, Rab and PT always close but always in his shadow ,that was a period in surfing that was state of the art
You’re a seppo right? So yeah, all 3…