Which famous philosopher would rule the waves? Let's ponder!
There is a new book out this month called Surfing with Sarte by author Aaron James, an “avid surfer and professor of philosophy.” It combines pop philosophy with surfing. Obviously. National Public Radio writes:
James tackles many of philosophy’s age-old conundrums — How do we know we exist? Are the things we sense real? — but he’s more concerned with a pragmatic issue: How do we balance labor and creativity, work and leisure, while living in a capitalist system that pulls and prods us toward an ideal of efficiency? His answer is simple, yet nuanced, and he delivers it in a refreshing way that eludes moralizing. “In the surfer’s easy self-transcendence, she remains herself, desires and all, but becomes attuned to things beyond herself.” Taking his own advice, he infuses Surfing with Sartre with just the right mix of personal insight and universal scope.
Etc. Etc. You get it, right? Cute. But the title made me wonder. Who is really thinkings best surfer? Surfings best thinker is… who would you say? Who is the smartest surfer out there? I’d say Matt Warshaw. He went to Berkley n shit.
Thinkings best surfer is a little more difficult though. Sarte looked like this…

…oh those googly eyes! He would be dropping in on everyone because how could he even begin to see? Or maybe he would never drop in because he would see both the far left and far right at the same time. In either case he wouldn’t be thinkings best surfer.
What about Immanuel Kant? His categorical imperative would be fun to abuse in the lineup and if he ever got in the way you could scream, “Facking Kant!” in a neat British accent.
Nietzsche would übermensch every wave to himself and look at his moustache…

…he would for sure ride a very heavy self-shaped thing that would hurt when he plowed into you.
Ludwig Wittgenstein would live in a nifty farm and probably end up stealing your girl..

Bertrand Russell would bum you out, Martin Heidegger would bore the shit out of you but it would be fun to call him a “boozy beggar”, Simone de Beauvoir might be a good time but I’m going to say Foucault. He would rule any scene, even Da Pipeline, through a perfect combination of knowledge and power but more importantly look at that breezy smile!

But who do you think? Do you disagree?
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“Thoth before throth”.
Silver Surfer. You nailed it with the photo. Homie was a tortured ponderer to the nth. Respect
I’m going platonic – he would be most comfortable in a large cave.
Another “intelligent kook”!
Calling David Scales Calling David Scales – why don’t you get that Aaron James in for a podcast, might make my nightly dog-walk a bit more interesting?
Are you sure Sarte wouldn’t actually SHRED? If he looks at the beach while going backside, he can see the oncoming section AND how deep he is in the barrel at the same time…. I think this makes him a low key threat at CHO-PO
Foucault is just Slater in disguise (glasses)
Sorry impervious but I have no knowledge of the American tertiary education system (obviously could not afford it )but I did win the French national university surfing title 2x .( made me some what happy and won more money than I had from a 100 contests in 80’s Oz) Shame Michel was in cali when better waves and crazier nights were just down the road in the sud ouest . Ah but Michel was no de Rosnay . Glad to see he touched your life .
The french surfed then?
Get Hobbes out there, he’ll show you what the state of nature really fucking looks like.
Even Chomsky would fuck up Foucault, the French Kant surf.
I was and am very happy that he was gay and happy . I read his wonderful work while I was studying in Bordeaux in the 90’s .
et alors , Pascal ?
You ignore Kierkegaard? His thinking around truth and subjectivity has clearly influenced the WSL judging panel, making our stupid sport the stupidestest sport like, ever!
Yes but have you ever surfed in Denmark?
Australians go to Bali. Americans go to McDonald’s and German surfers go to Denmark ” the cold north shore !
It’s possible that Soren is the fast eddy of the cold north shore
I hope this piece of genius doesn’t go unrecognized
Ah Lennox head’s finest . Just did some homework . Last year in the cloud break , jbay , Tahiti trifecta the best performance by a rookie class containing not one but two world junior champions was by kanoa ” in a rashie ” igarashi with 3 13ths. This year Joan 5th 9th 5th . Frederico 13th 2nd 25th and Stephanie single’s boyfriend Connor 2nd 13th 9th. Thought this would be enough for at least an article somewhere . Maybe if it was all stars zeke ethan or Leo ? Come on longtom here is your chance .
Not yet!
Not the real nick “nik” it’s not the real north shore but it is objectively and subjectively much colder
That, which is without meaning, is demonic.. Kierkegaard would be out there every day
Galileo? Hydrostatic balance is just another name for surfing right?
The bro Sigmund would pull offensively sick manoeuvres
Of course he would. Starting with the maneuver of convincing you to snort an 8-ball of coke before paddling out.
Gilles Deleuze! An actual quote from Postscript on the Societies of Control: “The disciplinary man was a discontinuous producer of energy, but the man of control is undulatory, in orbit, in a continuous network. Everywhere surfing has already replaced the older sports.”
Deleuze Was a Badass Teacher Known for Chain Smoking in Class and Playing Musical Saw. Deleuze Failed His University Admission Exam and Couldn’t Type.
Leapt through a window. Splat!
Then again, His main co-author Felix Guattari Pissed Away French Government Research Money on, Among Other Things, Motorcycles and Abortions. Guattari Created a Group of “Erotic Kamikazes” To Root Out Monogamy.
Photoshop Chas’ hair and neck tattoo onto Foucault and there is an uncanny resemblance.
All is but vanity
I’ve never been given a better compliment.
It’s interesting that he would use Sartre seeings how Sartre had an obsessive fear of crustaceans in particular and sea creatures generally. One mention of great white sharks and Sartre would have lost his shit and triggered his PTSD from that one time he took a hallucinogen and thought lobsters were following him everywhere.
a) surfboard?
Jean Paul Sartre. Not Sarte .
That’s why I’m not even close to surfing’s best thinker much less the other way around…
Sorry Chas but I have been abused by 20somethings for not being able to type . One was my niece and another on stab or britch who wanted to sodomise my mum ! When I was a kid in the 60’s someone who could type was called a secretary. Perhaps you know the rule and are breaking it = style , rather than not knowing = ignorance .
You sure get a doing over at Stab. You’ve just won my firm disqus allegiance though.
BTW: this comments stream is why I come to BG.
Adam Smith wouldn’t be the best but would have been consistently ranked top 3 on tour.
Obviously Diogenes.
Sounds like a budget homeware shop. Take the wife there. Limited parking.
Man, he lived for the barrel.
Skaters remember him as the inventor of dogtown style.
Bravo!
But probably didn’t joke about nazis !!! EVER