"Someone is going to die and that’s the unfortunate
reality of it."
Ain’t no fun when your town becomes, of all a sudden,
the “Isle of Jaws.” Esperance is a pretty, and let’s
face it until recently pretty dull, town seven hundred clicks
south-east of the Western Australian capital, Perth.
“It’s severely hectic down here and someone is going to die and
that’s the unfortunate reality of it,” Esperance Ocean Safety and
Support Group leader Mitch Capelli told Perth
Now.
According to reports, Esperance fishermen are baiting and
killing Great Whites because of a lack of government action.
Fishermen hooked a feisty ten-footer that had been filmed biting
and bumping boats on three different days.
“A lot of people have been calling me up and saying, ‘Let’s just
go out and catch it because no one else is going to do it’. I’ve
really been strongly advising against it because if we’re going to
be taken seriously then we need to be … going about things the
right way,” says Capelli.
The shark expert and filmmaker David Riggs told Perth
Now that Esperance “is the latest White shark hotspot (to
be) recognised on the planet. Before we had dropped anchor we had
six 15-foot Great Whites pushing our boat around. It’s
full-on.”
The Great White is a protected species, of course. And the law’s
gonna come down on anyone who rolls back to the dock with a dead
White on the deck.
So what sorta heat y’gonna get if you ice a White?
I would like you to take a few minutes this
morning to congratulate me on becoming a professional surfer.
Thanks! It has been an incredible run from surf journalist to
professional surfer, one that I never quite thought I’d make.
And how did I become a professional surfer? Oh. I just decided
and let me walk you through the process.
The kind people who run the Building the Revolution
Instagram account messaged me the other day with a question:
How easy is it to become a pro surfer? Skaters, wakeboarders
and snowboarders have to have a company think they are worthy
enough for a pro model. Pro team sports athletes need to be picked
for a team. Golfers need to be on tour. Surfers? Who decides if a
surfer gets pro status.
And this really got me thinking. I know how difficult it is for
skaters and snowboarders to go pro. As stated, it is your board
company who “takes you pro” and you must jump though many hoops and
even very talented kids never get “pro” status.
As things happen, I was chewing on this when I bumped into a
very famous surf agent in the grocery store. After exchanging
pleasantries I asked, “Is there any formal requirement to become a
pro surfer?” He answered, “As long as a kid makes 100 bucks
surfing, he’s a pro as far as I’m concerned…”
I have never made a 100 bucks surfing but I am riding a tester
board right now from the gorgeous Album
Surfboards in San Clemente and I bet if I ask they
will give me a t-shirt and a sticker.
Which makes me pro.
A pro surfer. I probably won’t do the tour or be a video pro or
a travel pro. I’ll probably be a writing pro, writing about my
experiences pro surfing n stuff.
So long surf journalism. You were always only second best.
One thing about surfing: to know it is not
necessarily to love it.
With the possible exception of golf, there ain’t a game as able
to deftly erase a man’s esteem, confidence, identity and sense of
athleticism like surf.
How many times a week do you surf? Once, twice, every day?
All those sessions over all those years. The bad, the very bad,
the ok, the sorta ok, the kinda good. Onshore, onshore, a little
wind swell here and there.
Around it goes until…
Those moments.
I estimate that I’ve surfed 3640 times, each session around an
hour long.
And isn’t it just surf to think, how many of those precious
moments have I gathered, how many waves do I remember?
I’ve got a handful: surfing a wavepool at midnight under a full
moon in the Canary Islands, dropping in on a pal and landing one of
the five straight airs of my life, a tube in front of Little Groyne
Kirra that was clocked by a former top five pro surfer who told me,
on the beach, he thought I was dead.
And, another tow moment, a ten-foot day at a Sydney reef near
Narrabeen.
Bigger than anything I wanna be near or, given my big-wave
experience, anything I should be near.
I let go, the wave throws and all I want to do is straighten
out.
It’s too big, too round, requires too much commitment.
But I don’t want to be cleaved in two by the lip either.
With legs that are quivering and a feeling of such aloneness
that I might actually cry, I turn into the tube. It throws further
than anything I’ve ever seen. I’m screaming and my arms are thrown
instinctively above my head. I fly into the channel, pumping my
fist in the air like an alt-right hooligan. My two buddies on the
ski are nowhere, gone hunting peaks around the headland.
All that drama, and such a potential story, without a
witness? Can you imagine the desolation?
And after all those sessions? Travel? Money spent, time
squandered? That’s all I got? One shit story?
HR strolled into the grand lobby of the Lord Baltimore
hotel where he was awaiting the premiere of Finding
Joseph I, the story of his rise, struggle, and return to
Jamaican waters.
Selfishly, I wanted him to jump up onto the glass coffee table,
unleash a desperate roar, then spring into a perfect backflip.
But HR, leader of the pioneering punk rock group Bad
Brains is not this person. His gait is measured and at
times uncertain. His words are few and gently drift out of a small
sixty-one-year-old frame. He is fragile.
Yet somewhere in this man exists a history of all of us who
heard his voice screaming inside our heads as we furiously paddled:
CHARGE! It’s no coincidence that Bad Brains’ anthems
brought life to countless surf videos; HR knows the ocean and its
power.
HR still retains a bit of the unique style that attracted so
many kids to him, his music, and his Positive Mental
Attitude, or PMA, over the last four decades.
Reclining in a silver Adidas track suit with matching shoes,
Rasta-colored knit hat and fat gold watch — clasped outside of the
sleeve, of course— he opens up.
But HR doesn’t share much about the watch, the music or the PMA.
He talks about his first memories of swimming on the shores of
Jamaica and playing in the waves of Hawaii.
He wants to talk about the ocean.
“When I was a boy living in Waikiki, I once dove into the
water after a sailboat anchored way in the distance. I thought I
could make it there underwater but quickly realized that I was
drowning. I was too far from that boat and too far from shore,” he
says. “Then I see my father dive in.”
HR closes his eyes and smiles. “He saved my life.”
Growing up on the beaches of Hawaii gave HR (Human Rights), born
Paul Hudson, the opportunity to develop an intimate relationship
with the water. He and brother Earl (also Bad Brains’
drummer) wanted to imitate the surfers they saw and idolized
including the Duke, whom HR declares as his favorite.
The two boys shaped primitive skim boards with their father’s
tools in the garage and spend their days throwing themselves into
the shore break.
“They worked really good,” he explains as his eyes light up.
“But, you know, it depended on who was riding them.”
HR laughs, a modest nod to his skills.
As HR entered adolescence, his father, an Air Force employee,
began a string of short-term reassignments which removed the family
from idyllic Hawaii to such inland locations as Texas, Alabama, and
the New York City. While HR was no longer close to the ocean, his
passion for the water remained. Settling in, HR joined his school’s
diving team.
“I loved to dive. That’s where I learned to flip and I
never stopped,” HR says referring to the lightning-powered
acrobatics that would soon help define his onstage charisma. He
excelled so rapidly that his school coach offered to train him for
an Olympic bid.
“The coach asked my mom what she thought about me moving away to
work with the Junior Olympic team,” HR recalls. “But she
wasn’t havin’ it. I wanted it, but she said, ‘no way.’”
His mother knew that another reassignment was approaching. This
time, HR would land in Washington, DC, home of the President and
birthplace of the young Bad Brains.
And then came the music.
Album after furious album.
Touring and notoriety.
Madonna and her Maverick record label came calling.
Chris Blackwell, owner of Island Records, petitioned HR to play
Bob Marley in an official bio-pic. There’s even an intriguing photo
of a Cheshire-grinned HR aside a woman —curiously resembling Brooke
Shields — drawing in a big lungful of something.
All the supposed glory of a rock star was within reach.
But HR wasn’t interested in money or fame.
While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR
was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of
watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of
Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also
developed other, less-healthy habits.
As the rest of us moved on to middle-class prizes, he remained
true to his words: “The bourgeoisie had better watch out for me,”
HR sang.
What money he had, he spent or gave away. He rarely held a
permanent address, bouncing from home to the street and on to the
next, ping-ponging between the east coast and California.
While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR
was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of
watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of
Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also
developed other, less-healthy habits.
There were stories and rumors. HR smokes crack. HR just plays
games. HR is crazy. During his most troubled times, he could be
seen shuffling around the streets costumed in a platinum-blond wig,
gold slippers, flowing white bathrobe over a electric-green Adidas
track suit, an acoustic guitar dragging behind him. A genuine
tinfoil on-the-head departure from reality. An overwrought English
accent layered his ravings about Princess Diana or Barack Obama
possibly tapping his phone.
Like in the waters of Waikiki, HR once again needed saving.
In 2010, independent film-maker James Lathos learned that HR was
sleeping in a boarded-up warehouse in downtown Baltimore.
“He was just surviving,” says Lathos. “It was not a
healthy place.”
Lathos realized that he had an opportunity to do more than
simply document the downfall of one of rock’s most mythical
figures, he had the chance to bring him to the surface.
Lathos, a surfer, thought quickly.
“I had to get him out of the urban ghetto. So what better place
than the ocean?”
After securing the needed funds, the two traveled to Jamaica
with a small crew to capture HR’s return to the waters where he
first played.
“It was therapy,” says Lathos. “It’s a heavy burden to be
him… to see him diving off the cliffs and swimming in the ocean was
everything. You could see his spirit open. He felt free again.”
HR connects one satisfying word with his time back in the waves:
“Happiness.”
And when I ask him if he attempted a backflip, HR replies, “No,
I just dove straight down… but this time I came back up.”
It was his start to recovery.
Some things are better described than defined, and mental
illness might be such a thing. The Jamaican trip may have been the
spark for HR to seek medical help for his deteriorating mental
state. Doctors found he displayed symptoms characteristic of
schizophrenia. They also diagnosed him with SUNCT, a rare brain
condition which causes debilitating and constant “icepick”
headaches. Fortunately, doctors have been able to address both
conditions.
Yet, this does not underscore the power of his ocean
homecoming.
As Lathos saw it, “He was off the hellhole streets and happy,
man. It was redemption.”
Lathos also sees a bigger picture. “I’m glad I could help my
friend and if this movie, which shows HR’s struggles with mental
illness, can help even three people, it’s worth it.” But the
director-surfer digresses. “Of course, any chance to get in the
water in Jamaica is worth it, too!”
Currently, HR is working with his Bad Brains bandmates
on more material, ready to deliver the message of PMA to a new
generation of kids charging into waves. In Finding Joseph
I, HR confesses, “I was given a responsibility to be a leader,
but I also had to be a human being” — a balance which might finally
be reclaimed.
You are, of course, a student of history and
are very aware of Formosa, or what we call Taiwan/the Republic of
China. The island, floating just east of mainland China and north
of the Philippines, was made famous in modern times when the
Chinese communists, led by Mao Zedong, fought the Chinese
nationalists, led by Chang Kai-shek, in a bloody civil war. The
communists won a series of decisive victories pushing the
nationalists to Taiwan where Chang Kai-shek declared Taipei to be
his de-facto wartime capital. And there has been a cold stare ever
since with Beijing laying claim to the island and the island
insisting on its autonomy.
What you may not know is that there is surf.
And let me introduce you to Hawaiian pro surfer Macy Mullen. A
fine name by any account.
Born and raised in Hawaii, professional surfer Macy Mullen
experienced Taiwanese culture through his mother who is of full
Taiwanese ethnicity. Macy heard stories, history and perspective
from his mother, but always wanted to see his (and his mother’s)
homeland with his own eyes. With a Summer window of opportunity and
the Western Pacific Typhoon season swinging into full effect, Macy
and fellow Hawaii pro Alex Pendleton booked a last minute strike
mission to Tainan, the capital of Taiwan, with hopes of scoring
surf along the eastern countryside. Their trip provided more than
just quality surf, they also dove deep into Taiwan culture and made
lifelong friendships within the new, budding Taiwan surf
culture.
Shall we watch? We would be foolish not to.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros