One thing about surfing: to know it is not
necessarily to love it.
With the possible exception of golf, there ain’t a game as able
to deftly erase a man’s esteem, confidence, identity and sense of
athleticism like surf.
How many times a week do you surf? Once, twice, every day?
All those sessions over all those years. The bad, the very bad,
the ok, the sorta ok, the kinda good. Onshore, onshore, a little
wind swell here and there.
Around it goes until…
Those moments.
I estimate that I’ve surfed 3640 times, each session around an
hour long.
And isn’t it just surf to think, how many of those precious
moments have I gathered, how many waves do I remember?
I’ve got a handful: surfing a wavepool at midnight under a full
moon in the Canary Islands, dropping in on a pal and landing one of
the five straight airs of my life, a tube in front of Little Groyne
Kirra that was clocked by a former top five pro surfer who told me,
on the beach, he thought I was dead.
And, another tow moment, a ten-foot day at a Sydney reef near
Narrabeen.
Bigger than anything I wanna be near or, given my big-wave
experience, anything I should be near.
I let go, the wave throws and all I want to do is straighten
out.
It’s too big, too round, requires too much commitment.
But I don’t want to be cleaved in two by the lip either.
With legs that are quivering and a feeling of such aloneness
that I might actually cry, I turn into the tube. It throws further
than anything I’ve ever seen. I’m screaming and my arms are thrown
instinctively above my head. I fly into the channel, pumping my
fist in the air like an alt-right hooligan. My two buddies on the
ski are nowhere, gone hunting peaks around the headland.
All that drama, and such a potential story, without a
witness? Can you imagine the desolation?
And after all those sessions? Travel? Money spent, time
squandered? That’s all I got? One shit story?
And you?
All your sessions? All your travels?
What do you remember?
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Long Read: Surf Saves Bad Brains
Frontman!
By Steve Rees
Ocean gives punk icon HR an anti-depressive
lift!
HR strolled into the grand lobby of the Lord Baltimore
hotel where he was awaiting the premiere of Finding
Joseph I, the story of his rise, struggle, and return to
Jamaican waters.
Selfishly, I wanted him to jump up onto the glass coffee table,
unleash a desperate roar, then spring into a perfect backflip.
But HR, leader of the pioneering punk rock group Bad
Brains is not this person. His gait is measured and at
times uncertain. His words are few and gently drift out of a small
sixty-one-year-old frame. He is fragile.
Yet somewhere in this man exists a history of all of us who
heard his voice screaming inside our heads as we furiously paddled:
CHARGE! It’s no coincidence that Bad Brains’ anthems
brought life to countless surf videos; HR knows the ocean and its
power.
HR still retains a bit of the unique style that attracted so
many kids to him, his music, and his Positive Mental
Attitude, or PMA, over the last four decades.
Reclining in a silver Adidas track suit with matching shoes,
Rasta-colored knit hat and fat gold watch — clasped outside of the
sleeve, of course— he opens up.
But HR doesn’t share much about the watch, the music or the PMA.
He talks about his first memories of swimming on the shores of
Jamaica and playing in the waves of Hawaii.
He wants to talk about the ocean.
“When I was a boy living in Waikiki, I once dove into the
water after a sailboat anchored way in the distance. I thought I
could make it there underwater but quickly realized that I was
drowning. I was too far from that boat and too far from shore,” he
says. “Then I see my father dive in.”
HR closes his eyes and smiles. “He saved my life.”
Growing up on the beaches of Hawaii gave HR (Human Rights), born
Paul Hudson, the opportunity to develop an intimate relationship
with the water. He and brother Earl (also Bad Brains’
drummer) wanted to imitate the surfers they saw and idolized
including the Duke, whom HR declares as his favorite.
The two boys shaped primitive skim boards with their father’s
tools in the garage and spend their days throwing themselves into
the shore break.
“They worked really good,” he explains as his eyes light up.
“But, you know, it depended on who was riding them.”
HR laughs, a modest nod to his skills.
As HR entered adolescence, his father, an Air Force employee,
began a string of short-term reassignments which removed the family
from idyllic Hawaii to such inland locations as Texas, Alabama, and
the New York City. While HR was no longer close to the ocean, his
passion for the water remained. Settling in, HR joined his school’s
diving team.
“I loved to dive. That’s where I learned to flip and I
never stopped,” HR says referring to the lightning-powered
acrobatics that would soon help define his onstage charisma. He
excelled so rapidly that his school coach offered to train him for
an Olympic bid.
“The coach asked my mom what she thought about me moving away to
work with the Junior Olympic team,” HR recalls. “But she
wasn’t havin’ it. I wanted it, but she said, ‘no way.’”
His mother knew that another reassignment was approaching. This
time, HR would land in Washington, DC, home of the President and
birthplace of the young Bad Brains.
And then came the music.
Album after furious album.
Touring and notoriety.
Madonna and her Maverick record label came calling.
Chris Blackwell, owner of Island Records, petitioned HR to play
Bob Marley in an official bio-pic. There’s even an intriguing photo
of a Cheshire-grinned HR aside a woman —curiously resembling Brooke
Shields — drawing in a big lungful of something.
All the supposed glory of a rock star was within reach.
But HR wasn’t interested in money or fame.
While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR
was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of
watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of
Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also
developed other, less-healthy habits.
As the rest of us moved on to middle-class prizes, he remained
true to his words: “The bourgeoisie had better watch out for me,”
HR sang.
What money he had, he spent or gave away. He rarely held a
permanent address, bouncing from home to the street and on to the
next, ping-ponging between the east coast and California.
While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR
was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of
watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of
Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also
developed other, less-healthy habits.
There were stories and rumors. HR smokes crack. HR just plays
games. HR is crazy. During his most troubled times, he could be
seen shuffling around the streets costumed in a platinum-blond wig,
gold slippers, flowing white bathrobe over a electric-green Adidas
track suit, an acoustic guitar dragging behind him. A genuine
tinfoil on-the-head departure from reality. An overwrought English
accent layered his ravings about Princess Diana or Barack Obama
possibly tapping his phone.
Like in the waters of Waikiki, HR once again needed saving.
In 2010, independent film-maker James Lathos learned that HR was
sleeping in a boarded-up warehouse in downtown Baltimore.
“He was just surviving,” says Lathos. “It was not a
healthy place.”
Lathos realized that he had an opportunity to do more than
simply document the downfall of one of rock’s most mythical
figures, he had the chance to bring him to the surface.
Lathos, a surfer, thought quickly.
“I had to get him out of the urban ghetto. So what better place
than the ocean?”
After securing the needed funds, the two traveled to Jamaica
with a small crew to capture HR’s return to the waters where he
first played.
“It was therapy,” says Lathos. “It’s a heavy burden to be
him… to see him diving off the cliffs and swimming in the ocean was
everything. You could see his spirit open. He felt free again.”
HR connects one satisfying word with his time back in the waves:
“Happiness.”
And when I ask him if he attempted a backflip, HR replies, “No,
I just dove straight down… but this time I came back up.”
It was his start to recovery.
Some things are better described than defined, and mental
illness might be such a thing. The Jamaican trip may have been the
spark for HR to seek medical help for his deteriorating mental
state. Doctors found he displayed symptoms characteristic of
schizophrenia. They also diagnosed him with SUNCT, a rare brain
condition which causes debilitating and constant “icepick”
headaches. Fortunately, doctors have been able to address both
conditions.
Yet, this does not underscore the power of his ocean
homecoming.
As Lathos saw it, “He was off the hellhole streets and happy,
man. It was redemption.”
Lathos also sees a bigger picture. “I’m glad I could help my
friend and if this movie, which shows HR’s struggles with mental
illness, can help even three people, it’s worth it.” But the
director-surfer digresses. “Of course, any chance to get in the
water in Jamaica is worth it, too!”
Currently, HR is working with his Bad Brains bandmates
on more material, ready to deliver the message of PMA to a new
generation of kids charging into waves. In Finding Joseph
I, HR confesses, “I was given a responsibility to be a leader,
but I also had to be a human being” — a balance which might finally
be reclaimed.
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Visit: The rebel island of Taiwan!
By Chas Smith
A fabulous history with fabulous waves!
You are, of course, a student of history and
are very aware of Formosa, or what we call Taiwan/the Republic of
China. The island, floating just east of mainland China and north
of the Philippines, was made famous in modern times when the
Chinese communists, led by Mao Zedong, fought the Chinese
nationalists, led by Chang Kai-shek, in a bloody civil war. The
communists won a series of decisive victories pushing the
nationalists to Taiwan where Chang Kai-shek declared Taipei to be
his de-facto wartime capital. And there has been a cold stare ever
since with Beijing laying claim to the island and the island
insisting on its autonomy.
What you may not know is that there is surf.
And let me introduce you to Hawaiian pro surfer Macy Mullen. A
fine name by any account.
Born and raised in Hawaii, professional surfer Macy Mullen
experienced Taiwanese culture through his mother who is of full
Taiwanese ethnicity. Macy heard stories, history and perspective
from his mother, but always wanted to see his (and his mother’s)
homeland with his own eyes. With a Summer window of opportunity and
the Western Pacific Typhoon season swinging into full effect, Macy
and fellow Hawaii pro Alex Pendleton booked a last minute strike
mission to Tainan, the capital of Taiwan, with hopes of scoring
surf along the eastern countryside. Their trip provided more than
just quality surf, they also dove deep into Taiwan culture and made
lifelong friendships within the new, budding Taiwan surf
culture.
Shall we watch? We would be foolish not to.
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Triumph: Ian Walsh wins Jaws!
By Chas Smith
A fantastic victory leaves me heartbroken.
I tuned in to the last 30 seconds of the Big
Wave World Tour Peahi Challenge today and was overcome by immense
sadness as Ian Walsh was declared victorious. A full-bodied sadness
that began just behind my eyes before moving to my stomach and
further extremities.
I was not sad that Ian Walsh won. He is a very kind and good man
and is in on this grand joke we’re all playing. I was not sad that
I missed all but 30 seconds of the event. Big wave surfing, I have
realized over the years is an absolute bore. Swell interval is a
real thing and the swells that create big waves are spaced lots far
out which means commentators droning on and on and on and on ad
nauseam. I think the WSL should hire stand-up comics in between
sets. I was not sad that Rory Parker was theoretically “reporting”
from a boat in the channel for Stab. He once “reported”
from Pipeline for us and it was the end of our relationship. I was
not sad that Billy Kemper failed to three-peat. I already let it be
known that Ian Walsh is good and fine.
No.
I was sad because big wave surfers seem to enjoy each other’s
company more than regular surfers. They seem to even like each
other and the entire field paddled over to Ian and gave him true
love when the final bell rang. They were so happy for him and happy
for each other and happy in general and I was sad because look at
us.
We small wave surfers hate each other. We grimace at each other
in the lineup. We curse at each other on the sand. We wish a giant
epidemic would come and wipe all other surfers from the face of the
earth yet somehow spare us and then we would go surf Trestles all
by ourselves and do almost average cutbacks and think, “Yeah…
smooooooth.”
We are a spiteful bunch. And would you like to do something
about it? Would you like to pretend, emotionally, that we are big
wave surfers? I’ll make you a deal. Next time I do an almost
average cutback can you paddle over to me and hug me and if I’m
wearing an inflatable vest can you pull the cord and inflate it in
a good natured manner?
I’ll do the same for you and let’s pretend, even if it is only
for one day, that we like each other.
Ok?
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Witch hunt: The WSL, Trump and Russia!
By Chas Smith
Professional surfing gets caught in the snare!
If you are even only semi-literate you are
aware that the president of the United States, Donald John Trump,
is being investigated for possible collusion with Russia during the
2017 election. Those on the left think that the Trump campaign,
alongside Russian operatives, infiltrated less intelligent
Americans’ Facebook accounts and made them believe bad things about
Donald Trump’s opponent Hillary Rodham Clinton. Those on the right
believe it is all a #witchhunt and #fakenews in order to explain
away what should have been a sure victory for #crookedhillary.
Whew!
Part of the investigation centers around a meeting that the
president’s son, Donald John Trump Jr., had with a group of
Russians in the Trump Tower including a woman named Natalia V.
Veselnitskaya who was reported to have “dirt” on Hillary
Clinton.
Well it was revealed yesterday’s New York Times that
Ms. Veselnitskaya instead brought alleged dirt on American
investors the Ziff Brothers, one of whom owns the WSL.
That’s right! The World Surf League right in the middle-ish of
wild international intrigue!
I’ve read the NYT story three times now and get more confused
each. I can’t tell what the Ziff brothers were alleged to have done
nor why it would matter to the Trump campaign but I am only
semi-literate. You should take a crack at it
here.
I wasn’t there, anyhow, in the Trump Tower and don’t understand
the story but I have some thoughts about how the conversation went
down. Here is a transcript.
Veselnitskaya: Spasiba for coming. I have
some very interesting for you.
Trump Jr.: Shoot, babe.
Veselnitskaya: There is Democrat donor, da?
Who has… problem. Problem can be exploited.
Trump Jr.: Hit me.
Veselnitskaya: There is Brothers Ziff and
one brothers Ziff, Dirk, owns The World Surf League…
Trump Jr.: (interrupts) There is a World
Surf League? It sounds globalist. Is America getting a good deal
being part of this league?
Veselnitskaya: (consultes notes) Nyet. The
top ranked surfer is Hawaiian. The top ranked surfer American is
Kolohe Andino and he is number 8 in the world.
Trump Jr.: Kolohe? That doesn’t sound
American.
Veselnitskaya: Da but he looks.
Trump Jr.: Is his dad… black?
Veselnitskaya: (consultes notes) Nyet. His
name is Dino.
Trump Jr.: Dino Andino? Is he
Mexican?
Veselnitskaya: (consultes notes) Nyet. From
Lithuania.
Trump Jr.: Well he doesn’t seem American at
all. Who is below Kolohe?
Veselnitskaya: (consultes notes) Number 20
is Kanoa Igarashi…
Trump Jr.: (interrupts) is this a joke? A
fucking joke? Kanoa Igarashi? I’m telling my dad to get America out
of this bad deal right away. Kolohe Andino and Kanoa Igarashi. This
is worse than NAFTA… etc. etc. etc.
And then they probably talked about Kelly’s Surf Ranch and a
bunch of other stuff.