Kelly-Slater
"Sometimes your mind can tell you one thing and then you get on something and it can be the best board you’ve ridden. You have to feel it out without judgement." | Photo: Steve Sherman/@tsherms

Slater: “This is my fav hunk of foam!”

A very pretty, contest-winning five-ten from the champ’s eponymous label… 

Last September, Kelly Slater grabbed perhaps the final win of his three-decade career, combo-ing John John Florence in the final of the Tahiti Pro.

Kelly included a 9.77 and a 9.90 in his heat total of 19.67. It was Kelly’s fifty-fifth contest win.

And the surfboard he won the event on, which is called The Gamma, is Kelly’s “utility short board” design. It means he can ride ‘em in a variety of conditions. Kelly keeps a a quiver of Gammas in one-inch increments from 5’9” to 6’1”.

However, this version, a 5’10” x 18 3/8” x 2 5/16th, just shone from the batch. A touch shorter a little more beef for getting it over the ledge.

I ask Kelly, who is at the Slater Designs factory in Carlsbad, just north of San Diego, what specific pleasures it has given him?

A wave, a turn?

“I won Teahupoo and got a twenty-point heat on it. What else do you need?” he says.

Were you intimately involved in its design?

“I wasn’t in the shaping bay but I did verbally design the board and worked through a few renditions of it to get to this.”

Were you immediately thrilled, or were you displeased, by its appearance?

“Yeah, well, if you don’t like what a board looks like you don’t pick it up and ride it. So…yes! I’ve had the board for over a year now but I retired it after that contest because I was waiting to use it in similar waves again.”

Can you tell if a board is going to be good before you ride it?

“I feel like I can, but that said, I had a board recently that was an early version of the Gamma, one of the first iterations of it. And at the time I was putting a little more foam in my boards, more volume, and this one felt too fine so I didn’t touch it for two years. And then I rode it recently and it felt amazing. Sometimes your mind can tell you one thing and then you get on something and it can be the best board you’ve ridden. You have to feel it out without judgement.”

When you stood up on that first wave of Teahupoo on it, did it feel special?

“That’s the secret to a good board is that feels like it jumps on you,” says Kelly. “It feels like it moves where you want to so you don’t really have to think about it. I haven’t ridden that board since Teahupoo last year, I might’ve ridden it in France briefly, but yeah, I got on it and it was one of those surfboards that went wherever I thought and I was able to make a lot of waves that for whatever reason I didn’t think I was going to make, busting through the foam or whatever.”

Tell me some of the specifics of the design.

“It’s a steady rocker. A continuous rocker. It has a single concave so that flattens the rocker in the centre. It’s a standardised board for what people are doing but the trick is in the rocker and working out, over time,  the concave so you don’t get too much lift in the tail. It’s about finding balance in the curve and the lift.”

You treat this board real good? In cotton wool?

“It’s a weird thing,” says Kelly. “You win a contest on a board and you want to keep that thing on ice but at the same time if you’re not riding it consistently then you don’t know all the little intricacies that made it so good. So you gotta beat up a board to be in tune with it. That’s the Good Surfboard  Dilemma for us.”

I got a little cash. How much to buy?

“How much you got,” says Kelly. “You gotta start negotiating sonewhere. How much you got?”

Not much! I gave it all to Matt Warshaw!

(Editor’s note: This story first appeared in Surfing Life’s surfboard issue, number 338. Buy it or subscribe here.)

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Doobalachy
Doobalachy
8 years ago

Um was that an adverorial for KS, ASL or both and do now own and are rebirthing ASL as Chas is doing the same for Surfer?

Brutus
Brutus
8 years ago

ah more key stuff derek coulda asked Kelly , but he is the GOAT , which means we need to respect and be gentle with ol Baldy!
1) who actually shapes the boards for him?
2) what relationship does he have with the shaper , does he exchange feedback , and have someone to bounce his theories off?
3) what construction is the current favourite board , and how many of his Prototypes are actually made out of PU with stringer?
4) Does he use real carbon on his bds , and if so why do the Slater design Models have Fake Carbon?
5) Firewire/SD has a sales policy of putting ALL their boards in Australia/USA/France on consignment , this has been called an unethical business principle by Patagonia , does Kelly see this as negative or a positive?
6) does Kelly’s Gamma/Fred Rubble work as well in his pool , and is he working on a special design for his pool?
7) Is there a retro Pamela design in the works ?
ahhhh , the questions of life!!

Dumb Florida Redneck
Dumb Florida Redneck
8 years ago
Reply to  Brutus

I answered some of your questions above or below. Dunno how this shit works.

Dumb Florida Redneck
Dumb Florida Redneck
8 years ago

He’s riding hand laminated epoxy with biaxle cloth and actual carbon,and div cell (high density foam stringers. How do i know? https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
8 years ago

PU inside?

Dumb Florida Redneck
Dumb Florida Redneck
8 years ago

From what I’ve seen the actual gamma is a PU Core wrapped in biaxle cloth and possibly nylex, these are super fused eps (the ones he rides) the others are just shite chunks of 1lb foam wrapped in the cheapest tortion reducing cloths possible. In other words it’s a fiero,while he drives a Ferrari and claims they are the same.

Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
8 years ago

Not really, for I prefer a PU, at least until they find an EPS that doesn’t absorb water like Taj gulps beer. Apparently they are doing an experiment in Firewire California of non absorbing EPS. Otherwise you pay a grand, do a small ding and all of a sudden there’s 1 litre of water – 1 kilo, that you can’t get rid of.

Rusty Shackleford
Rusty Shackleford
8 years ago

Look into “superfused” eps

Brutus
Brutus
8 years ago

the problem with the superfused EPS , its so much more expensive than low class EPS , so profits margins would be hurt , or boards would another $100 , then the question gets asked , ” if EPS was the same price as PU , what would be better?”

Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
Weslley’s Secret Life - Wozzle
8 years ago
Reply to  Brutus

Varial?

Brutus
Brutus
8 years ago

Varial is nearly triple the price of a PU blank , Toxic to shape , and rockers change after shaping , so next!

in tubo veritas
in tubo veritas
8 years ago

warning cheese advert…

Eddie Haiku
Eddie Haiku
8 years ago

What else do you need? Indeed! Maybe less of a fucked personality Kelly. That would be a positive start.

Otto
Otto
8 years ago

You sure KS wasn’t talking about his INSTAGRAM?

“That’s the secret to a good INSTAGRAM POST is that feels like it jumps on you,” says Kelly. “It feels like it moves where you want to so you don’t really have to think about it. I haven’t ridden that INSTAGRAM since Teahupoo last year, I might’ve ridden it in France briefly, but yeah, I got on it and it was one of those INSTAGRAM POSTS that went wherever I thought and I was able to make a lot of waves that for whatever reason I didn’t think I was going to make, busting through the INSTAGRAM HATERS or whatever.”

Dumb Florida Redneck
Dumb Florida Redneck
8 years ago

The Brian Williams of surfboards. “i was there”. Well ok I wasn’t “there” but in like an existential balance,don’t vote for President.

Jocks
Jocks
8 years ago

“I wasn’t in the shaping bay but I did verbally design the board”

Does Fincham shape at Slater Design boards?

Dumb Florida Redneck
Dumb Florida Redneck
8 years ago
Reply to  Jocks

So i said. “Use the cheapest “hunk of foam” available. Make 12 year olds that Look like his girlfriend glass them flood the market and look like an idiot? He was in the shaping bay!

Rick_Deadman
Rick_Deadman
8 years ago

Kelly’s fav hunk of foam is from his own company! Wow what a coincidence!


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