Advertisement

Lost: Outtakes from Paradise!

Hidden gems from an American classic!

(Many years ago I wrote a book titled Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell. Today, I stumbled upon clippings that fell by the wayside. Here is one.) 

At sundown I was on the deck, wondering how to capture in words the exact way the Pacific below looks in winter light; the way the gradations of milky blue and green abruptly father darkest sapphire (no, no mention of jewels- that is cheating); give birth to a deep black-blue like… like the deep black-blue of the Pacific at the end of a sunny winter day.

I have never been able to describe what I see every evening from the Turtle Bay Resort and Spa (does it have a spa?) Must make do with plain statements like the vog that signifies a prehistoric burp that eliminates the line between sea snd sky so that they look to be the same element and one has the sense of being at the center of a cold fire.

I attempt this description for the hundredth time in order to give my pen something to do as I try to sort out what has happened to me since Kimo, the bell braddah, appeared at my door with the alarmed look he always has when a haole comes to call and a barbarous name must be announced.

“Ho ba. Some uhhhh guy name Hudson is downstairs an wants talk story.”

Since it is my job to be at home to haoles – particularly in the surf industry – I told Kimo to bring Hudson to my room and straightened my short-sleeved Hawaiian shirt that I was trying out, ironically of course.

After a few moments, and through the beige door, a large slow figure stumbled into view. “Yo, Chas, how sick is this place? So sick. You go downstairs and see all the boys yet? So sick…”

I looked toward the Pacific with tired eyes and thankfully did not hear another word Hudson said as the Filipino grounds crew had begun its traditional midday pruning.

0 0 votes
Article Rating

Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.

Join the discussion

Your comments are still here. Every one of them.

Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.

Unclaimed
Handle
Comments
Posting since

Connect Disqus to reveal.

Subscribe
Notify of
50 Comments
Newest
Oldest Most Voted
James Bickerton

Tough love .

James Bickerton

EBC O‘leary + 2018 Carve pro winner Shane Campbell + 2018 Vissla Great Lakes pro runner up Jared Hickel , juniors Rohr and super freak Jarvis Earle,Georgia Morrow and Former Aus champ Joey Seer and former Aus team rep Harrison Martin on the bench . LET THE BATTLE BEGIN.

James Bickerton

Ja natürlich. (Yes of course).

James Bickerton

As long as he surfs for Elouera Boardriders Club in Newcastle this weekend !
One life , one club .

Eddie Haiku

Lost? Hidden? Can something be lost and hidden? This is my existential question for today.

Otto

No. But something can be hidden and lost.

Eddie Haiku

Oh yeah! That has solved it for me. Carry on.

Abscessed Llama

Igarashi for Japan.. Is it me cause, I kinda feel like you shouldn’t be able to represent a country unless you pay taxes in that country. I guess it ok! Wonder if the Korean’s stoked to see Chloe Kim take gold. So is Igarshi never going to pledge allegiance to USA again?

Otto

Kanoa is going to cash in big time with Japanese endorsement deals! Good on him! He’s probably looking at the long term prospects after the WSL builds their Wave Ranch in Japan. Can you blame the guy? In a struggling industry, such opportunities are becoming fewer and further between. He’ll turn wave pool specialist and use the WSL for all its worth in the future as it’s brand ambassador in Japan.

Well, if I was his agent, that’s what I’d recommend.

bitter guy

or be the 3rd best guy surfing HB pier on any given weekend, kind of a no brainer

Otto

Well shit! All the more motivation.

The proliferation of wave pools will undoubtedly mutate some pro’s careers into, dare I say, pool specialists. Just like aerial specialists, slab specialists and goon specialists. We stand on the precipice of a strange new world.

bitter guy

as long as they get the least/worst pussy i’m ok with it

david fffff

Sounds sick. I would love to hear the rest of what Hudson has to say.

Tomas' silky smooth arms

Yeah, bring it. Hudson sounds like a sick cunt.

Tomas' silky smooth arms

Does it have a spa?

Krypto Jackson

I think you were wearing the shirt sarcastically, not ironically. In any event, I would have liked to have seen this passage in the book.

Tomas' silky smooth arms

In the book I thought Chas was wearing the pink button up number at this point. Actually it seemed like he wore it throughout the entire book.

Chas Smith

I was wearing a white Helmut Lang button-up that was super sick when Rip Curl security threw me out of the Micktory party then the rest of the time it was pink button-up except for one brief moment when I toyed with going native.

Jen See

Here for the fashion.

Audit In Progress

Me too (not kidding)

Tomas' silky smooth arms

Same. I’m learning. Albeit slowly.

Tomas' silky smooth arms

More fashion tips please.

funky Gibbon

Don’t get thrown out of parties in expensive shirts. Don’t buy Helmut Lang past 2005.

Tomas' silky smooth arms

Do you think the adjunct professor has ever been thrown out of a party. I don’t.

Otto

Yes. He was thrown out of the Communist party.

James Bickerton

The old axe to the head a la TROTSKY in Mexico.

Chazz Michael Michaels

I’m afraid you’re wrong. It was most certainly ironically, not sarcastically.

Otto

Way to face your fear Chazz!

Chazz Michael Michaels

?

I do have an aversion to misunderstanding of language, but I wouldn’t call it a fear!

Otto

“I’m afraid you’re wrong”….you gotta loosen up a bit Chazz. All that betting has made you a bit tense, or intense. One or the other.

Chazz Michael Michaels

Au contraire, my friend. Of course I considered the bluntness of my tone, but I was merely echoing the tone of OP who had incorrectly corrected the writer.

I’m as loose as they come, just not with words.

Otto

Okay. You win. My joke sucked.

resumes.mvlhawaii@gmail.com

What is this nonsense? How do I get your new book? Even my perma spun friends read your other book in one sitting. “Ho bra, dis haole fuka know how fe write talk story” literal quote!!

Chas Smith

This is the nonsense that never sees the light of day (unless I get bored and throw it up here). And I owe your friends many many beers. And June 12!

NUG

June 12th was the day Doc Ellis pitched a no hitter on LSD.

Chas Smith

Really? Auspicious! And how big a ball fan are you? Who your team? One of my dreams is to write a baseball book that goes in the pantheon.

Otto

Cocaine and Surfing: A Love Story
#freebaseballofcocaine

Audit In Progress

Almost as auspicious as November (whatever): The Day Ashton Surf Ranched on Shrooms.

Oh shit, should I not have mentioned that? Will I get you in trouble with the OC Sheriffs Department?

NUG

The biggest. My team is the Olympic athletes from Russia curling team.

bitter guy

been watching that OAR medal count closely myself

throwing disqus

worth the watch here.
https://youtu.be/_vUhSYLRw14

Jen See

Also? June 12th is FOREVER from now. HURRY.

resumes.mvlhawaii@gmail.com

The one guy is named Kenny.and he sits on the bench at horners in Wailua every day drinking hurricane high gravitys!!! Can’t wait till june. Why even mention it so soon?

throwing disqus

Hudson sounds like a coke dealer.

longtom

Hudson is aussie?

Chas Smith

Picture the “so sick” in the OC patois.

Jen See

natch

Tomas' silky smooth arms

Natch. Underutilized.

janeausten

Then he’d be “Huddo”.

James Bickerton

Hud or Hudson , son of Hud . The hood maker .


50
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x