Hidden gems from an American classic!
(Many years ago I wrote a book titled Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell. Today, I stumbled upon clippings that fell by the wayside. Here is one.)
At sundown I was on the deck, wondering how to capture in words the exact way the Pacific below looks in winter light; the way the gradations of milky blue and green abruptly father darkest sapphire (no, no mention of jewels- that is cheating); give birth to a deep black-blue like… like the deep black-blue of the Pacific at the end of a sunny winter day.
I have never been able to describe what I see every evening from the Turtle Bay Resort and Spa (does it have a spa?) Must make do with plain statements like the vog that signifies a prehistoric burp that eliminates the line between sea snd sky so that they look to be the same element and one has the sense of being at the center of a cold fire.
I attempt this description for the hundredth time in order to give my pen something to do as I try to sort out what has happened to me since Kimo, the bell braddah, appeared at my door with the alarmed look he always has when a haole comes to call and a barbarous name must be announced.
“Ho ba. Some uhhhh guy name Hudson is downstairs an wants talk story.”
Since it is my job to be at home to haoles – particularly in the surf industry – I told Kimo to bring Hudson to my room and straightened my short-sleeved Hawaiian shirt that I was trying out, ironically of course.
After a few moments, and through the beige door, a large slow figure stumbled into view. “Yo, Chas, how sick is this place? So sick. You go downstairs and see all the boys yet? So sick…”
I looked toward the Pacific with tired eyes and thankfully did not hear another word Hudson said as the Filipino grounds crew had begun its traditional midday pruning.
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Tough love .
EBC O‘leary + 2018 Carve pro winner Shane Campbell + 2018 Vissla Great Lakes pro runner up Jared Hickel , juniors Rohr and super freak Jarvis Earle,Georgia Morrow and Former Aus champ Joey Seer and former Aus team rep Harrison Martin on the bench . LET THE BATTLE BEGIN.
Ja natürlich. (Yes of course).
As long as he surfs for Elouera Boardriders Club in Newcastle this weekend !
One life , one club .
Lost? Hidden? Can something be lost and hidden? This is my existential question for today.
No. But something can be hidden and lost.
Oh yeah! That has solved it for me. Carry on.
Igarashi for Japan.. Is it me cause, I kinda feel like you shouldn’t be able to represent a country unless you pay taxes in that country. I guess it ok! Wonder if the Korean’s stoked to see Chloe Kim take gold. So is Igarshi never going to pledge allegiance to USA again?
Kanoa is going to cash in big time with Japanese endorsement deals! Good on him! He’s probably looking at the long term prospects after the WSL builds their Wave Ranch in Japan. Can you blame the guy? In a struggling industry, such opportunities are becoming fewer and further between. He’ll turn wave pool specialist and use the WSL for all its worth in the future as it’s brand ambassador in Japan.
Well, if I was his agent, that’s what I’d recommend.
or be the 3rd best guy surfing HB pier on any given weekend, kind of a no brainer
Well shit! All the more motivation.
The proliferation of wave pools will undoubtedly mutate some pro’s careers into, dare I say, pool specialists. Just like aerial specialists, slab specialists and goon specialists. We stand on the precipice of a strange new world.
as long as they get the least/worst pussy i’m ok with it
Sounds sick. I would love to hear the rest of what Hudson has to say.
Yeah, bring it. Hudson sounds like a sick cunt.
Does it have a spa?
I think you were wearing the shirt sarcastically, not ironically. In any event, I would have liked to have seen this passage in the book.
In the book I thought Chas was wearing the pink button up number at this point. Actually it seemed like he wore it throughout the entire book.
I was wearing a white Helmut Lang button-up that was super sick when Rip Curl security threw me out of the Micktory party then the rest of the time it was pink button-up except for one brief moment when I toyed with going native.
Here for the fashion.
Me too (not kidding)
Same. I’m learning. Albeit slowly.
More fashion tips please.
Don’t get thrown out of parties in expensive shirts. Don’t buy Helmut Lang past 2005.
Do you think the adjunct professor has ever been thrown out of a party. I don’t.
Yes. He was thrown out of the Communist party.
The old axe to the head a la TROTSKY in Mexico.
I’m afraid you’re wrong. It was most certainly ironically, not sarcastically.
Way to face your fear Chazz!
?
I do have an aversion to misunderstanding of language, but I wouldn’t call it a fear!
“I’m afraid you’re wrong”….you gotta loosen up a bit Chazz. All that betting has made you a bit tense, or intense. One or the other.
Au contraire, my friend. Of course I considered the bluntness of my tone, but I was merely echoing the tone of OP who had incorrectly corrected the writer.
I’m as loose as they come, just not with words.
Okay. You win. My joke sucked.
What is this nonsense? How do I get your new book? Even my perma spun friends read your other book in one sitting. “Ho bra, dis haole fuka know how fe write talk story” literal quote!!
This is the nonsense that never sees the light of day (unless I get bored and throw it up here). And I owe your friends many many beers. And June 12!
June 12th was the day Doc Ellis pitched a no hitter on LSD.
Really? Auspicious! And how big a ball fan are you? Who your team? One of my dreams is to write a baseball book that goes in the pantheon.
Cocaine and Surfing: A Love Story
#freebaseballofcocaine
Almost as auspicious as November (whatever): The Day Ashton Surf Ranched on Shrooms.
Oh shit, should I not have mentioned that? Will I get you in trouble with the OC Sheriffs Department?
The biggest. My team is the Olympic athletes from Russia curling team.
been watching that OAR medal count closely myself
worth the watch here.
https://youtu.be/_vUhSYLRw14
Also? June 12th is FOREVER from now. HURRY.
The one guy is named Kenny.and he sits on the bench at horners in Wailua every day drinking hurricane high gravitys!!! Can’t wait till june. Why even mention it so soon?
Hudson sounds like a coke dealer.
Hudson is aussie?
Picture the “so sick” in the OC patois.
natch
Natch. Underutilized.
Then he’d be “Huddo”.
Hud or Hudson , son of Hud . The hood maker .