Names surfboard after important religious artefact!
Can you guess?
The surfboard designer Hayden Cox, who is a sunny faced
thirty-five, arrives for the interview carrying three
gorgeously brazen surfboards. One is an all-black eight-foot-six
gun, a scaled-down version of a nine-six he’d made for the
Narrabeen big-wave surfer Ben Wilkinson to ride at Jaws, and early
and final versions of his new model the Holy Grail, one a five-six,
the other a five-seven.
The original Holy Grail, as if needs to be explained to our
theologically aware readership, was the cup that Joseph used to
collect Jesus’ blood as he died upon a wooden cross during his
crucifixion in 33 AD. His death would later become a public holiday
in Judeo-Christian societies. (Good Friday.)
I remember, two-ish years ago, when Hayden told me the name. I
thought it divine, literally. Hayden was worried that he’d get
himself a little heat for its religious overtones, another surf
media person had said as much, but as I said to Hayden, live a
little, risk eternal damnation. There’s worse things.
Hayden’s here to explain his kink for rail curvature, or
side-cuts if we’re to be specific, and how he says he can build a
board that has all the easy-paddling and stability of what you
might call, in hushed tones a fun board, but with a radical
high-performance back end. Think, a car you can easily drive in
traffic but still loose on the track.
The inspiration for the side-cuts, and it’s the reason the
eight-six is arranged on my terrace next to the Holy Grails,
is it came from solving the problem of Ben Wilkinson wanting a
board he could turn mid-face at Jaws.
“We always talked about how you could get big-wave board to surf
with all that speed but have enough curve to do a big hack
underneath the lip,” says Hayden. “And it took me two years of
thinking, on a million plane rides, visualising what the board
could be and then it came to me. I gotta use side cuts. I gotta use
a fast, straight rocker down the centre of the board put the curve
in the rail line so as soon as he tilts the board on a mid-face
bottom bottom turn, you want that rail line curve to draw you up
the face. And when you flatten the board you’re on the flatter
centreline rocker.”
A clarification.
Hayden ain’t saying he invented the concept of side-cuts. First,
you’ll see ‘em on snowboards. Second, they’ve been around since the
late seventies, and mostly on twin-fins. Hayden says he was turned
onto the concept of side-cuts, and it’s a concept he first
introduced commercially with his Psychedelic Germ model, via
conversations with the shaper Mick Mackie.
“He’s an absolute chilled legend,” says Hayden. “He loves a good
chat about how boards ride and how they flex.”
Now let’s get into more theory. Hayden picks up a basketball and
shows how the black channels intersect, at one point resembling a
rounded pin tail.
“People need to understand that there’s different parts of the
board you surf on different parts of the wave,” he says. “And the
concept is that when you surf horizontally on a wave, which is
across the wave, you’ll surf on the centreline rocker. As you know,
the theory goes that the more rocker you have the more manoeuvrable
the board and the more sensitive it is in the pocket. And the
flatter the rocker, the more lateral the board surfs and the faster
is moves across the wave, but you lose the ability to turn in the
pocket.”
Side-cuts give you a hit each way.
“Where it translate to the surfer,” says Hayden, “is the fact
that now you have a really straight centreline rocker, which you
feel when you surf horizontally, and that’s giving you flow and
speed. But when you tilt the board on rail, now you’re surfing on
the rail-line rocker which has all the curve late off the back
foot.”
In his thinking, in his experimentation, Hayden rode a
five-seven at big Nias. The design is an early version of the
Holy Grail, fins well forward and with the side-cuts kicking
in, dramatically, a dozen inches off the tail.
“I’m not going to surf Jaws but Nias is a big, open face,” says
Hayden. “I felt that speed and that flow and that turning ability
when you hit the rail line that curvature coming into play. But
even with fifteen-foot faces I felt like it was only just starting
to come to life. The concept of the long tail is to create hold and
to give you that connection to a wave face that draws you upwards.
I knew it could be insane in small waves but I knew I had to cut
off the tail.”
The result is the finished Holy Grail.
“In small waves that’s the evolution. You don’t want the hold.
The outline and the amount of that curvature was put into the rail
line to suit everything from shoulder high faces, three foot, up
until, shit, I’ve surfed it into good twelve-foot faces, South
Coast sorta stuff,” says Hayden.
Three foot, double overhead.
One board.
Hayden picks up the basketball, spins it.
“Maybe I should’ve called it the Spaulding,” he
says.