And, "BeachGrit a fake version of original Stab!"
Earlier today, Outside magazine published a review of Cocaine + Surfing to coincide with its American launch.
Its author, Daniel Duane, is a noted writer of adventure books of climbing and surfing as well as gorgeous personal essays for the New York Times Magazine as well as Outside.
“Although Cocaine + Surfing makes for a catchy title and a smattering of salacious anecdotes, it’s a stupid idea for a book,” writes Duane, before tightening the noose. “It’s an even stupider idea for a book conceived in the way that Smith initially (although not ultimately) conceived of it—as, to quote his equally-catchy subtitle, ‘a sordid history of surfing’s greatest love affair.”
What cruel torments lie ahead?
“Despite this horribly misguided premise—or, rather, because of it—Cocaine + Surfing is a dazzling page-turner, highly-recommended beach reading, and absolutely the funniest book ever written about surfing.”
“Although Cocaine + Surfing makes for a catchy title and a smattering of salacious anecdotes, it’s a stupid idea for a book,” writes Duane, before tightening the noose. “It’s an even stupider idea for a book…”
Oh, a volcano of praise! It continues.
“To hold those contradictions together in one’s mind, it helps to recognize that Smith’s literary models do not include serious works like my man Warshaw’s scholarly History of Surfing or William Finnegan’s Pulitzer-Prize winning Barbarian Days; A Surfing Life.
“Cocaine + Surfing belongs, rather, to the honorable lemons-into-lemonade lineage that begins with Ross McElwee’s cult-classic 1986 documentary film Sherman’s March: A Meditation on the Possibility of Romantic Love In the South During an Era of Nuclear Weapons Proliferation, in which McElwee tries to make a film about the civil war but ends up interviewing all his ex-girlfriends instead, and Geoff Dyer’s Out of Sheer Rage: Wrestling with D. H. Lawrence, an unforgettable book about not writing a book about D. H. Lawrence.
“In the same spirit, Cocaine + Surfing is a book about a self-loathing surf journalist getting the seemingly-brilliant idea to write a book about cocaine and surfing, hitting the road for research in various corners of the surf industry, discovering that it’s actually a stupid idea, and wondering how his once-promising life came to such a sad pass.”
“The surprising joy of this book, though—and it really is a joy—has nothing whatever to do with cocaine. It lies entirely in Smith’s brilliant skewering of surf culture, the surf industry, his own complicity in both, and the frailty of the human ego.”
Also.
“The surprising joy of this book, though — and it really is a joy — has nothing whatever to do with cocaine. It lies entirely in Smith’s brilliant skewering of surf culture, the surf industry, his own complicity in both, and the frailty of the human ego.”
“Smith also delights in deep inside-baseball stuff like his repeated reference to the formerly-terrific Australian surf magazine Stab as ‘the fake version of BeachGrit’ when everybody knows that his own BeachGrit is in fact a fake version of the original Stab.”
Oh for fuck’s sake.
In case you didn’t know, or didn’t read the first line, etc, Cocaine + Surfing is released today.
So the book reminds me of the Curb Your Enthusiasm where Jerry mocks George’s book as really being a pamphlet because it’s so short.
I agree a wave is not a half pipe, it’s a quarter pipe.
“Caught Inside” Duane’s book on being a surfer on the central coast of California, remains the best book ever written about surfing — including Finnegan’s love letter to masculinity and the triumph of the Finneganian spirit.
I’ve also thought this was a stupid idea for a book because who the fuck cares about cocaine? But if Duane likes it, I’m in.
that was a shitt book, just chock full of romantic adult learner cliches.
which one, Finnegan or Duane?
Duane.
He was an adult learner
it was pap…..except for the descriptions of his mates. Pure dilettante pap.
Okay
oh shit, now i have to find it and read it — just to see which one of you has it right!
Duane’s book was lame, yes you should read it though!,… I thought it was sort of a self congratulatory ego babble, “yay, surfing is cool, dang it was tough though, other dudes were harsh, but they were cool too, I stood up”, yawn
in fact you could substitute DDs review of Chas’ book for DD’s book & it’d fit pretty good!
now, I do think it was awesome that Duane mentioned the awesome Geoff Dyer in the same breath as our awesome Chas… Dyer’s DH Lawrence book was a masterpiece, and I thoroughly recommend it, but I’d start with Dyer’s older book “Yoga for people who can’t be bothered to do it”
In fact I wonder if Chas has read it? Chas, you should read Dyer too!
Oh man, I’m not sure I could sit through that. There are so many good books in the world, you know? I’m not sure I could waste time with this kind of thing.
I have read Dyer, though weirdly, not the DH Lawrence book. I should get that thing.
chas smith = the Ross McElwee of surf media.
ouch, but touche’ .
sherman’s march is fantastic. highly recommend
I request Chas does a review of Daniel Duane’s “Caught Inside”…which I remember nothing of. Also, please invite Duane to a podcast….that is all for now.
Daniel Duane is all over the place and pretty much over my head, but I would like to see him sit across the table on The Grit podcast and talk that shit to Chas in person.
I once made the mistake sticking a copy of the 1955 home economics “guide to being a good wife” on the fridge. it was meant as a joke but certainly wasn’t received as one.
Beach Grit: Cocaine + Commenting
Oh I think I have Duane’s book kicking around my shack! I didn’t actually read it though? Idk. Another dude road tripping to go surf book, I couldn’t quite do it. Maybe it’s good?
It’s a great book.
Oh, okay! If I can find it, I’ll read it. I should maybe post an IG story of this finding process 😀
Cocaine + Curling – great premise… Cocaine vs. Adderall – nice. Cocaine + Surfing Can’t wait to read it on vacation. exactly. looking forward to it…
I’m a bigger fan of Rory Parker’s online review posted on Goodreads:
“The description of this book makes it seems as though the author is offering an unvarnished view into the seedy cocaine subculture of surfing. He does not.
Rather, the author employs mental gymnastics to connect the discredited South America to Polynesia origin of the Hawaiian people to a longstanding, albeit imaginary, relationship between the coca leaf and riding waves.
He tells a vague story about seeing a pair of unnamed professional surfers use cocaine one time. He asks people for cocaine at surf industry parties and is unable to find any. He speaks to Michael Tomson, a man with a well documented cocaine addiction, without revealing any information that isn’t already public knowledge.
The author spends the rest of the time rehashing apocryphal tales, summarizing things that other people have written, complaining about the surf industry, mentioning the clothes he wears, and navel-gazing about his career as a surf journalist.
If you’re looking for surf industry dirt, or shocking insight, you won’t find it here. Professional surfers do drugs sometimes. If you’ve read that last sentence you’ve ingested the sum total of information on offer.
If you’re a fan of self indulgent rambling and unsupported claims you might like this book. I did not.”
He ButtHurt
it didnt go out of fashion on its own. it stopped being promoted as fashionable because it was too gnarly for most. you can sell alot more merchandise to street skating nerdy wimps and selling merchandise is what all of this is about
nolite prohibere nunc suus ‘iustus questus bonum,
That review has put me off somewhat.
Tell it like it is !
Please girls don’t think I am a misogynist . My family and my marriage are ruled by strong,beautiful,intelligent and generous women and I feel blessed to have so many wonderful female role models .
I’ve met and surfed behind some world class drop inners but none of them dared to write a doctorate on the subject . A wonderful French mate obliged me to buy him a beer every time froth took over and the 11 commandment , “ Though shall not drop in”, was broken by yours truly .
So – can women actually be world class drop-inners? Shurley to do that you do need to sit on the peak and drop in late next to said victim and cynically fade them into no-man’s land. Shoulder (dr)hopping does not count as world class, does it? Wait, did I just kill the whole argument of being able to take whatever wave you wanted – because you actually want the whole wave….?
Yes world class female surfers can be world class drop inners.
I think we should then plump for the WSL to have the gender indifferent world drop-in tour with points awarded for cynicism, coldness and callousness (oh wait, could this be where men’s inferior emotional intelligence starts letting them down?) And Gabby gets the inside!
Peter Drouyn / Westerly Windana / back to Peter again , the inventor of the man on man / woman on woman format , envisaged that drop ins and fighting in a heat would be an intrinsic part of his / her / his new system in an attempt to create an exciting dramatic package . Whether this came from Peter the man or Westerly the woman only they could help you ? Would like to add that they were a fantastic surfer and visionary who never received the accolades they deserved .
I feel like there is no gender restriction on this move!
Quarter pipe!!! nobody thinks a wave is a half pipe that would just be crazy
A moving quarter-pipe isn’t it?
I thought the holy grail of surfing was a full pipe?
It is in French as “ une pipe “ translates to blow job .
I’m not coping.