"Those stories seem outrageous don't they? I wouldn't believe it if someone told me."
In August, the Australian Josh Kerr won the Four Seasons invitational contest in the Maldives, an event that tests the savvy of surfers on singles, twins and three-packs.
Also in the event, and in order of placing, were Alejo Muniz, Fred Pattachia, CJ Hobgood and local wildcard Abdulla ‘Fuku’ Areef.
A sixth competitor, Bruce Irons, was a notable absentee.
Shortly after his non-appearance, I spoke to Bruce, who is thirty-eight years old and living in Salt Creek in southern Orange County, about the chain of events that led to his withdrawal from the event.
Well, first, hoo-ee, it’s been three years since I spoke to Bruce, since he told me he was jumping back on the qualifying series, so there’s a little bit of catch-up.
I tell him I’m the now the biz partner of a best-selling author (buy Coke and Surf here, free worldwide delivery); Bruce says he’s had two months out of the water, all of June and July, after laser eye surgery. A pterygium made it feel like “someone had spit in my eye. Last winter, I’d drop in late, pull up and all of a sudden lose my balance. I looked like a fucking kook. I spent thirty years not realising it. It was like looking through a glass bottle. Towards the end it was really bad, like, does she have fuzzy skin? Do you have…scales?”
As for missing the Maldives, well, that’s a three-pronged story.
First, Bruce was psyched to go.
“I wanted to go and fucking wax Freddy P. We had a vendetta. In our last little matchup in Bali I smoked his ass. We were staying together. He got second and I won. I knew he’d be coming with his A-game. As for Kerr, I knew he was going to win. I saw him surf that single fin in that Rusty vid, doing airs, and alright, well, yep, he has his shit down. So… I was bummed. Fuck.”
The last time Bruce was in the Maldives was with old pals Chris Ward and Shane Beschen.
“Chris tried to do a Muay Thai kick and he slipped over and split his head in front of me,” says Bruce. “I went to kick in his face and slipped and got a huge bump on my elbow. He got up in the morning and we got into it again because he thought I’d punched him. He broke my boards and my mini-DVD player, back when they were a thousand dollars out of Singapore. It was Beschen’s Bombay gin that started us.”
So what happened on this trip?
“It was a string of fucking…okay…it’s partially my fault. I was moving out of my place, I was hotel hopping, I had all my fucking stuff in storage, a car full of shit, and I got my boards sent to a friend’s place in Venice. As I was driving up there, I grabbed all my stuff. And I open it all up and I’ve only got a double board bag. It was, like, shit, crunch time. Plane to catch. I needed to open up the bag, go boom, boom, boom. Oh my fucking god. This is not going to work.”
(Flight to Dubai missed.)
“Next day, I get there three hours before the thing opens. I call this service on Yelp where they come and pick up all your luggage so I don’t have to sit there with all my stuff. (Later), I call the guy and I say, ‘Alright, boom, drop off my shit, I’m over here.’ The guy comes up and tells me he doesn’t take credit cards. Cash only. I have a credit card, that’s all I’ve got. I tell him, ‘Fuck, I’ve got stuff I can give you, what the fuck?’ He doesn’t budge. Me and this dude are going back and forth… for fifty dollars. Everyone was losing. I’m going to miss my flight, he’s going to lose his fucking job. I tell him I’ve got GoPros, sunglasses, shoes. He asks me if I have any perfume. Per…fucking…fume! I gave him a GoPro to get my stuff. And I missed my fucking flight. Now…you’re not going to believe this.
“The third thing.
“So I go back to the motel. Next day, I get a taxi to the airport, my luggage is in the back. The driver gets into me for going so short a distance. A twenty-buck fare. He’s mumbling shit. Want me to get out? Right before we get out he tells me he’s from Ethiopia da da da. Whatever, all good, he’s talking, talking as I get out and then he takes off with all my luggage. Are you fucking kidding me? So I Uber back to the taxi bull pen. Eight lines. Fifty cars. They’re all yelling at each other. And I tell ’em, one of your taxi guys has my shit, the Ethiopian dude. The guy there says there’s so many cars and so many different races and I’m standing there going fuck, fuck, fuck. Then, because my iPad was in one of the bags, I tracked it to Hollywood. I go to my car and I’m flying towards Hollywood where this fucker is and then he comes back to the bull pen, turns off my iPad, but I’m already back there. I’ve fucking got him. The motherfucker. I tell him, what’s up motherfucker! You turned off my iPad! He said he didn’t know whose it was.
“(The trip) just wasn’t meant to be. It sucked. Those stories seem outrageous don’t they? I wouldn’t believe it if someone told me. Really? Really? So I’m sitting there, baffled, the fight leaves at one in the morning, the cops are there, and I grab my shit and get to there (check-in) with fifty minutes to go. The chick doesn’t let me on. Then it’s two in the morning and it’s like the Twilight Zone. I gotta get back to my car with my board bag, the car is filled with shit, and on top of it, I’m looking for a hotel in fucking LA, and everywhere is booked out. I find this one place, drove up to it, and there’s a dude on the porch, this full trap house, holding a bottle of hard alcohol, full gangsta, and I just did a full u-turn.
“I blew it. There was a string of events but you know how it is. I’m justifying it to myself. If I had a chick, this probably wouldn’t have happened. They’re all organised. I’ve been running my own shit. At the end of the day it’s my own fucking fault. I spent a lot of money. The first fight they paid for. I spent probably spent six grand and didn’t fucking go anywhere.”

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whatever that shit is great.
This is the most cracked out shit I’ve ever heard. Bruce, you’re 38, get your shit together.
So did RVCA extend his contract or what? Thats all I really care about.
Or why haven’t they done a new BI signature line in almost two years?
Bruce does the lines all by himself?
These days, most likely.
All time story. Yep, that’s happened to me a couple of times.
Read the headline and I can’t read any further. Grow the fuck up
“The guy comes up and tells me he doesn’t take credit cards. Cash only. I have a credit card, that’s all I’ve got.” Then Bruce, behaving like a functioning adult, takes out $50 from the airport ATM, pays the guy and catches his plane. The end.
Whats the prob with his story?
Pretty standard story.
No biggy, shit happens.
A scumbag manchild… go work for life punk kid.
Happy Xmas and all that to all – could done the story of JJF on the Hobart race – he practicing his sailing to depart the tour no?
¿Qué? I missed this. Is he having a crack?
The backhand extreme vert OTL at 1:50 is the fastest/bestest in-human history.
Anyone can have a bad day.
I just did a long drive for a Christmas surf, bailing on family time, start to suit up, forgot my wetsuit. Coulda bought new one, but Christmas. Closed. 3pm. Sun down at 5pm. Denied. Drove back. Looking to HNY ya?
Wishing Bru a giant year. Just stay clear and surf. There’s nothing hard about it.
But did you leave your suit behind 3 times in 3 days? Therein lies the telling difference…
Couldn’t you just man-up and trunk it for an hour?
Didn’t have trunks, because Santa Cruz/Winter. I was tempted though. 🙁
“could of bought a new one”…so if you leave your wetsuit at home, you go a buy another? I don’t care how cold the water is, I hate wetsuits enough to just paddle out without. But I also own 2 dozen.
Throw away society!
Santa Cruz… Coldy. Also, didn’t have trunks, because Santa Cruz/Winter… And I planned to buy another O’Neill Psycho 1 because it’s so much better than my other 4… None of which will be thrown away.
Just tripping on Bruce’s bad luck. His was far worse. But I did have a bump on a trip to Oz once, so I can relate.
Oh I love Bruce to pieces! But a fantastic story that deserves retelling, yes?
Low-hanging Christmas tree bauble?
how i get my booze baby.. anything low on the tree has my name on it
Merry Christmas and all that!
I’m going to call this as I see it…
Fantastic story? As in, imaginative or fanciful; remote from reality, then yes.
You love Bruce? Clearly not like a son or daughter.
Everything in the story is a sad and lonely dead end road. Homeless, money burning, nonsensical, stuck in the past.
In stories like these we’re all laughing at him, not with him- you included Derek.
We’re all waiting on the next headline that he’s locked up forever or gone forever.
Then when he’s gone the tributes will flow, the tears, the documentaries, the comp in his name, the T-shirts and stickers.
Everyone will start posting #RUOK to feel better.
But he’s still here, right now.
I have no facts on what he’s into, but there are enough red flags in that story alone to trigger alarm bells.
It’s easy to laugh at the drug addict or alcoholic, they can be so funny when they’re up.
But would you want your children to end up like Bruce, Derek?
Beachgrit should call things as they as they are, you and Chas (mostly Chas) call out the WSL all day, why not this?
Stab is the cigarettes-are-cool sheep fanboi club.
It may be said with a degree of assurance that not everything that meets the eye is as it appears. You unlock this door with the key of imagination…. in any quest for magic, in any search for sorcery, witchery, legerdemain, first check the human spirit.
Every man is put on earth condemned to die.
You’ve reached the “Bruce Irons Zone”
Dude I’ve been in that zone since phizer introduced oxycontin.
“if I had a chick, I wouldn’t be stuck in central America addicted to cocaine,diazapam, and codiene”
“Yeah that’s the ticket! “
John lovits