Maurice Cole has been one of my favorite surf personalities ever since I was ten years, lounging on my Coos Bay bed, gazing at his lines. Oh they were perfect. Sensual even and they fired a youthful lust that infects me to this day.
You know the poster.
And ooooooee, it still gives me shivers.
Maurice has rare charisma in this surf world. He’s not afraid to butt heads, to tell it like it is, to change the game and then change it again. He has been through multiple iterations and yet is still a visionary. It is why I was so desirous to hear his chat with David Lee Scales.
David Lee you know, of course, from the Surf Splendor Network and our biweekly chats. He has always been a wonderful host but has also developed into a crackling interviewer. He takes his craft seriously and is able to dig gold from his subjects.
Here, the two discuss tragedy and compromised integrity. Failure and stress and cancer and why publicly traded surf brands are destined for failure as soon as that IPO floats. It is a fantastic episode, well worth a listen between today’s madness.
It is the best show yet.
Buy: Owen Wright’s Mountain-Beach Hideaway for $A1.2 million!
Lesser known is Owen’s taste for real estate. His portfolio contains a beach house near Lennox (with an indoor swimming pool that meanders through the living room) for which he paid $A1.4 million as a twenty-year-old in 2010, a Federation-style joint in Byron Bay ($A975,000), a townhouse in the surf town of Thirroul on the NSW South Coast ($605,000) and, this, the sprawling mountain hideaway Ahisma, on the NSW South Coast, bought for $A765,000 two years ago and now listed for sale at $A1,190,000.
From the brochure:
The ultimate nature escape, ‘Ahimsa’ offers complete privacy, stunning views and private creek frontage. The perfect place to breathe, unwind and appreciate nature.
The home has been designed to embrace the natural beauty of its environment. A full wall of bifold doors open your living space out to the large ironbark deck, the kitchen offers a servery window out to the covered deck area and even the shower can be open to the outdoors.
Other than the cleared land around the house, the rest of the property is natural rainforest, with your own private path meandering down through the rainforest to Brogers Creek. With very little maintenance required on the property, it is the perfect retreat to relax and enjoy the peace and beauty the property offers.
Even on a cold rainy day, you can snuggle up by the wood fire watching the ever changing landscape from the comfort of your lounge.
While the home embraces nature, modern conveniences have not been forgotten. Power and phone are connected, there is Telstra mobile reception and the kitchen features quality appliances including a dishwasher, gas cooktop and electric oven.
If you’re looking for your own piece of paradise to escape to, you can’t get much better than this.
C’mon, let’s do a little walkthrough.
Do you dream of chucking in the big-city life for an existence punctuated by the morning call of native birds, a honey-skinned and undemanding gal lolling around on the futon massaging her clitoral branches, and empty reef breaks?
2018 is almost in the books and this means only one thing. A list. This list, unlike other lists, is better because it is ours and very likely incomprehensible to someone not here, on BeachGrit, every damn day. It is a list for you. For The People.
There are ten most influential surf persons in 2018 and we shall discuss numbers ten through five right now.
9. The Wright Family: Australia’s Owen, Tyler and Mikey kept the surf world titillated and/or confused with confusing injuries, confusing wildcards and more confusing injuries. Never before has one surfer baffled the masses, much less three, much less three siblings. It’s almost impossible that this saga can get any more head scratching but there’s always hope!
8. John John Florence: The world’s favorite surfer didn’t really compete but he did keep us fascinated. From sailing adventures to well-timed video drops to “will he or won’t he” debates regarding The Pipeline Masters in Love Me Tender Memory of Andy Irons, John John made us chat endlessly with no real insight or information. The sort of chatting we love most.
7. Erik “ELo” Logan: The World Surf League President-elect of Content, Media and WSL Studios came in speaking softly and carrying a big stick. Hailing from The Oprah Network, this adult learner stand-up paddler is ready to re-make surfing in his own image and we will be cheering from the lineup. Cheering until the leash on his infinity SUP Blurr V2 pops and breaks our hands and decapitates our heads.
Tell me honestly what you think about skateboarding. Are you fascinated by its urban gritty culture and bloody-knee’d boys or do you snigger when you see a gaggle standing around, sweating and breathing heavily?
I’m relatively indifferent, though certainly appreciate it as both art form and very difficult pastime.
It seems, though, that many in surf wish that our culture reflected skate with is seemingly devil-may-care ‘tude and rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle.
With this in mind let us watch a man named Dustin Dollin talk about his first trip to America as a 14 year-old boy. The podcast is called The Nine Club Club and is very popular amongst skaters.
We’ll drop in after a long segue about Dustin growing up in Australia in a safehouse for shotgun totting bank robbers with a step-dad who had claws for hands. Right before, he describes getting sponsored by Volcom and being flown out to Oahu then getting picked up in a van by heavily tattoo’d Hawaiians and getting offered cocaine.
“I land, get the immediate coke offer and realize, ‘I’m with the party team.’ But before that I’d done coke with Andy Irons and Ozzy Wright… maybe you don’t know who that is.”
The hosts know Andy Irons and Dustin tips his Stella Artois in honor.
And there we have it. Heavily tattoo’d Hawaiians, cocaine and a 14-year-old boy.
Who’s more rock ‘n’ roll now?
Feel free to watch the other two and a half hours for insights and inspiration. And if you want to read a little more? Try this!
Sailor boy Florence, swings into Hobart ninth across the line. Chris Bryan/@chrisbryanfilms
John John Florence about to cross line, top ten, in world’s most prestigious open-water yacht race!
"My goal is to sail around the world," says John John.
The annual 600 nautical mile Sydney-to-Hobart yacht race ain’t for sissies or cry-babies.
As those precious hunks of carbon and aluminium and fibreglass move off the coast and mainland Australia they hit Bass Strait, an irritable body of water known for its “high winds and difficult seas.”
Boats sink, people disappear.
In 1998, five boats sank, six people died. Of the 115 boats that started the race, 44 finished.
This year, the two-time world champion surfer, John John Florence, who turns 27 next birthday, joined the crew of Winning Appliances, a fine sixty-footer that was built in Dubai.
The boat is currently 50 or so nautical miles (57 regular miles. See, nautical miles are based on the circumference of the earth, each mile equalling a minute of latitude) from the finish line where it is expected to finish ninth.
John John ain’t no stranger to boats.
Earlier this year, he bought the snowboarder Travis Rice’s totally off-the-grid, 48-foot catamaran, Falcor, a boat Travis once sailed from North Carolina to Hawaii via Panama and Tahiti.
“My goal is to sail around the world,” says John John.