"...by no means was it like those pretty days we all see at Pipe."
We would all be kind to describe the 2018 iteration of the Air Reverse Masters in thoughtful and prayerful memory of Andy Irons as “wonky.” Those big, clean lines haven’t quite appeared though they might today. The gaping barrels have been missing. Do you think they will come back? Do you think we’ll get our Pipeline?
Let’s hope but while we’re hoping let’s also reminisce over the epic shot above. Jack English, a monster of surf photography, snapped it out at sea of Liam McNamara and describes it as “the biggest wave ever ridden/photographed at Pipeline.” Here’s Jack!
Chas: Describe the day…
Jack: When I first got down to the beach it just seemed like just a normal big day at Pipe. Then when I was on the shore waiting to jump in I just remember feeling all alone. There were no other photographers around and it was a sunny morning, but with the waves being so giant for whatever reason it just made the sky really dark. Looking back at it now it was just one of those naive moments in time.
How’d it feel?
Once I was outside and into the lineup thats when I realized I was way out of my league. It was giant, messy and unorganized – by no means was it like those pretty days we all see at Pipe.
Who else was out?
I was the only photographer out their and then some time later Larry Haynes arrived. I remember seeing Mike Stewart and Shane Dorian – Dorian did make some comment to me relating how crazy it was out there. This was one of those day’s that separates the men from the boys! (ed. note: Or women from the girls…)
So Liam got this monster wave. Then?
Well the crazy thing was I only took one photo of Liam’s wave. Remember these were the days where we shot film and I had only 36 frames so when you paddle out to a spot like Pipe you’re always going to be very conservative with how many frames you shoot. I am really proud of myself to focus so heavily on this exact moment to when to take this picture – I have no idea why I didn’t go trigger happy on this thing. When your shooting so close to the action everything seems to be in slow motion – it’s really scary as your trying to just survive the surf and at the same time get the shot.
How’d you get back to shore?
Getting back in was way worse then getting out. So here I am floating around knowing I am so out of my lead so I ask Larry what’s the best way to get in – and he just points straight towards the Gerry Lopez house and says paddle straight in that way. I was like fuck that – there’s no way in hell I am going to paddle straight in because I thought by doing so I would get sucked back out or sucked towards Backdoor. So instead of taking Larry’s advice I swam towards Pupukea and the whole time I could see a lifeguard on a ATV riding along the shoreline watching me. I kicked and kicked and felt so hopeless trying to get worked by a wave once I reached Ehukai and eventually hitting the shoreline near the showers. I just remember when I first felt the sand against my flippers I waved to the lifeguard as a sign that I’m all good – When I got to the shore I couldn’t feel my legs.
What makes Pipe special?
I think what makes Pipe so special is the way it breaks so close to shore and so perfect looking. I don’t know why it is, but Pipe seems to be the one wave on the North Shore where surfers need to prove themselves and where you gain respect from everyone in the surf community.
You’re onto a new project, Sea of Seven, tell me about it!
Sea Of Seven is a new company that I started with my daughter. Over the years I have less and less interest wearing anything surf related – I think with age you get tired of being a walking billboard for these big surf brands. I don’t want to dress like I did when I was 17 – my interest have changed over time and I wanted to create something I thought was cool. I just felt like if I’m going to wear a tee of some sort I would rather have something that I created being with my vision or using my images.
Gorgeous. Shop here!