Adult learner and Formula 1 champ Lewis Hamilton declares, “Surfing is my fave sport!”

Kelly Slater and Kai Lenny are the two best teachers in the world!

It appears that Kelly Slater and Kai Lenny can transform any internationally-renowned, multiple-time Formula 1 champion and turn him into a surfer overnight. The best two teachers in the world? Although our sample is limited, I think the answer is a resounding yes!

After getting barreled on his very first trip to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch just a few short weeks ago, the British racer Lewis Hamilton is back at it in the real ocean, this time with Kai Lenny though I think Kelly Slater is there too.

Are the pointers helping?

No doubt. Hamilton looks confident, poised and ready to barrel in the real world. Face forward, shoulders squaring toward the wave, eyes down the line.

The commenters agree that he is surfing extraordinarily.

@shai_3355 writes, “You make it look easy!”

@lesly.stubbs.9 writes, “Cute butt cheeks!”

@giansa_aprilianko adds, “Hello im live in Indonesian please following me”

On it goes, not a bad comment in the bunch and does professional driving not have “grumpy locals?” Did the Father of Modern Professional Surfing accidentally buy the wrong pastime?

More as it develops.


James "Chappy" Jennings, snapped in the guts of Pipe by the peerless Don King.

Dorian, Healey, Kohl: “Wait! This is the best surf shot ever at Pipe!”

Kohl Christensen hands his three-day old crown to that ol master Don King… 

Three days ago, or thereabouts, Kelly Slater announced that he had seen the best photo ever taken at Pipeline.

It was a shot of underground Pipe regular Kohl Christensen, snatched on a grapefruit sunset, by the  photographer Daniel Russo, who was seated on a jetski.

“This picture sums up why we surf. And nobody seems to be more in tune with the ocean than Kohl,” said Kelly.

(Click here for story, photo.)

Russo ain’t one to claim thing, but he did say it was his best ever shot at Pipe.

“Perception of one’s experience can vary from person to person. But this image is exactly what happened. To me, this is the exclamation mark of the winter at Pipeline,” said Russo.

Christensen, for his part, was pretty quick to hose off the best-ever photo tag, writing on his IG account, “The best picture is the picture that inspires you the most. Pipeline. Surfer Magazine 1984 shot by Don King. I had this shot on my wall as a kid. I didn’t know Chappy. I was only seven when this went to print but it was so amazingly beautiful and terrifying at the same time. Shocking. The size of the barrel! The lip detonating on the shallow reef, the boils and Chappy’s crazy low ninja tube stance. I never forgot this image and along with countless other wonderful captures, I was inspired to follow my dream of surfing the ‘Pipeline’ one day.”

A roll call of noted surfers were quick to agree.

Mark Healey: “Still my favorite Pipe shot. Something about the lack of distortion in the image makes it feel more like real life out there.”

Shane Dorian: “That is still by far my favourite shot of all time at pipe!! Had the poster on my wall and just stared at it for hundreds of hours in shock.”

Koby Abberton: “Had it on my wall for 15 years!”

And, Kelly Slater, of course.

“Chappy was insane and underrated out there I thought. Always charging from so deep. I played golf behind him and got to chat a couple years back on the Gold Coast. That conversation ultimately allowed me to make a flight I was late for on the Gold Coast but that’s a different story for another time. Glad I got to meet him finally. Was always a legend to me from Performers in early 80’s.”

Chappy, for those who aren’t one hundred years old, is James Jennings, a surfer from Queensland who, despite being the size of an adolescent girl, was a marquee Quiksilver rider alongside Gary “Kong” Elkerton.

Matt Warshaw’s Encyclopedia of Surfing (subscribe here) describes the photo and Chappy thus:

“He was better known as a fearless tuberider, utilizing a wide, low, crablike stance, and a photo of him racing through an cathedral-sized tube at Pipeline ran as a two-page spread in A Day in the Life of Hawaii, a 1984 coffee-table photo book. “The usual mugs were riding deep,” SURFER magazine said of Jennings’ performances at Pipeline that year. “But Chappy went deepest, and those who witnessed it talked for weeks in tones of respect and valor.”


Apocalypse now: World Surf League president of content, media and studios takes on foil SUPping!

So deadly it should come with a Parental Advisory warning!

The very famous poet T.S. Eliot once mused, “This is the way the world ends. Not with a bang but a whimper.” and while I both appreciate the art form and the sentiment have to disagree for the world will neither end with a bang nor a whimper but with the sound of the World Surf League’s president of content, media and WSL Studio’s new SUP’s new foil sawing through your jugular vein.

Something like a gurgle.

Or maybe a choked gasp.

And what possessed our dear president of content, media and WSL studios to exchange his normal mode of transportation, the @infinity_sup #blurrV2, for 18th century France’s favorite tool? I cannot honestly say. I cannot even honestly speculate.

President Logan himself writes, “Super #sundayfunday on the @kalamaperformance @gofoil setup. Been quite some time since we FLEW the GoFoil. Waves were PERFECT and fun. Thanks to @jawadchabib for the pic. Foil Squad @legrandebeachhomes & @nikaukai with support of @ballred @ryharrisshapes #somewhatLOYALtothefoil #neededahaircut #justatadrusty”

Maybe there’s a clue in the hashtags? Like, why is “loyal” capitalized in #somewhatLOYALtothefoil? An acronym maybe? Lopping Off Your Auburn Locks? Is #needahaircut code for “I am going to scalp some folk today…” ?

More questions than answers.

But one more.

Would you rather surf knowing there is a Great White shark prowling around underneath or with President Logan next to you on a SUP foil?


Revealed: “Surf City, USA” Huntington Beach hates poor people!

No pier waves for you!

When was the last time you visited “Surf City, USA” aka Huntington Beach, California? Were you there for the U.S. Open of Surfing rubbing buttocks with underaged rude things? Were you there more recently, say for the annual Christmas puppy parade? Well, California’s new governor Gavin Newsom is suing the town but not for what you think (buttock rubbing). He is suing because he thinks Huntington Beach hates poor people and let’s read about it.

Gov. Gavin Newsom used a new law for the first time Friday to try to force a wealthy Southern California coastal city to end its years of opposition to meeting low-income housing goals.

Newsom’s administration sued the Orange County city of Huntington Beach under the law that took effect Jan. 1 after passing in a 2017 package of measures intended to alleviate the state’s severe housing shortage and homelessness problem.

The lawsuit says leaders in Huntington Beach, home to about 200,000 people, have repeatedly refused to amend the city’s housing plan to add state-required low-income housing and are fighting a separate lawsuit by housing advocates. The city says it’s complying with state housing and zoning laws.

It’s the second major issue facing California that the self-styled “Surf City USA” is battling the state over. Huntington Beach also is challenging the sanctuary law that limits cooperation with federal immigration officials.

The city is in a traditionally Republican area that has been shifting more Democratic like the rest of California. State officials say housing negotiations began before Huntington Beach challenged the immigration law and the lawsuit isn’t retaliatory.

“Many cities are taking herculean efforts to meet this crisis head on,” the Democratic governor said in a statement. “But some cities are refusing to do their part.”

The story goes on and on and on but, jokes aside, when I first read the phrase “a wealthy Southern California coastal city” I thought maybe La Jolla or Malibu had effectively stolen the self-styled Surf City, USA moniker.

the U.S. Open of Surfing is going to be more fun this year.


Former pro surfer-turned-DJ’s smash hit voted second most popular song of 2018!

Dirty ol Paul Fisher more popular than Travis Scott, Childish Gambino etc.

A few moments ago, the former-pro-surfer-and-comic-turned-DJ Paul Fisher’s song Losing It was voted the second-best song of 2018 in an Australia-wide poll.

Every January, the youth radio network, Triple J, runs an online poll to find the 100 most popular songs of the previous year.

And Paul Fisher, who trades under the stage name FISHER and who was formerly part of a duo called Cut Snake with another former pro Leigh Sedley, finished second ahead of Travis Scott’s Sicko, Childish Gambino’s This is America and behind the seventies yacht-rock ballad Confidence by Ocean Alley.

My favourite memory of Paul Fisher was when he called me was five or six years ago. It was eight pm and I was about to sit down to a delicious dinner with my (then) wife and (still) two sons. It was a Skype call from America, three in the morning or thereabouts in LA, which gave it some importance.

I removed my bib, drained my pitcher of department store red wine. (Family man.)

Was Fisher in trouble? Did my little pal require serious counsel?

As the pixels settled down to a clear picture, Fisher appeared and ordered a girl to “Show Derek ya tits! Ha ha ha ha ha!”

And now look at him!

Listen to Losing It again (and again) here!