"This picture sums up why we surf," says Champ.
In case you haven’t been strolling the golden sands of the North Shore this past week, here’s some news.
The waves have been real good.
The sorta surf that makes you caw like a sat-on cat. Or, if you’re the timid kind, makes your eyes fill up with tears.
Two nights ago, Kohl Christensen, a tradesman who also trades in bigger-than-usual waves, got himself dosed at Pipe, with master craftsman Daniel Russo there on a ski (“Believe me, there were 25 swimming photogs,” says Kelly) to steal the moment.
The angle, and the longer lens, gives this very heavy day a rare distant softness.
“Is this the best Pipeline shot of all time? On his last wave of the day, on the best day of the year, on his final ride before the birth of his second daughter…a roll-in from Second Reef on an 8’6” Brewer,” Kelly Slater announced to his two million Instagram followers. “This picture sums up why we surf. And nobody seems to be more in tune with the ocean than Kohl.”
Russo, for his part, tell me, “I’m biased but I’m putting it as my best image ever at Pipeline. I feel like this winter has seen a record amount of good days at Pipeline. Plenty of magical waves, goals achieved by surfers and so on. But the illusion to capture that one moment hadn’t showed up until this wave. The time of day that created classic backlit Pipeline. The time of year allowing the sun, the tide and winds to align just right; the energy that travelled thousands of miles under the ocean surface starting in Japan. Then for it to spike up on the Second Reef of Pipeline. Kohl manifested this wave as left Haleiwa on my jetski. As we made our way past Shark’s Cove we could see the spray coming off the backs of the waves at Pipeline. We knew we were headed in the right direction. And we were in the right place at the right time.”
And here’s how it went down, says Russo.
“After about an hour a set stood up near Third Reef. It didn’t break, it just stood up. The Pipeline reef locked in the swell and started to cross it up to form a multi-wave set. The first two were a little wide, drawing the water off the reef. Then the third wave of the set came and Kohl paddled into it. Perception of one’s experience can vary from person to person. But this image is exactly what happened. To me, this is the exclamation mark of the winter at Pipeline. Oh, how good it’s been.”
Now, to Kelly’s charge: The best shot at Pipe? Ever?
Who wants to play?
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This Pipe sequence is pretty gnarly, too…
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Best shot at Pipeline? Surely it should feature https://uploads.disquscdn.c… Gerry Lopez…
This is why we follow Beach Grit, this is fucking crazy beautiful
I dunno… I reckon this one is even better. Look at that tube stretching off into the distance… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Namibia?
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The best Pipeline photo ever would have to include Marvin Foster.
I just cant wait to get an air brushed copy of that photo in Bali for my wall…
My old one is fading… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
All class!
That’s the most incredible surf photo I’ve ever seen.
where’s all the single use plastic?
I could mind surf that take off all day long if it were on my wall.
Negatron you dream crusher ……It is only a goddam right ! What sort of goofy are you ?
One who absurdly decided to locate himself in an area where the best waves are mostly rights.
the disney kind…
I’ll paint it for you. On a side note I’m also currently in Bali.
See me website for credentials & contacts.
scottdenholm.com
Kelly must have thought
It was an image of him
Switching at VLand
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Backdoor aint Pipe! I know..
when is a soft top not soft?
Yes, a 2010 vintage Wavestorm I believe.
In terms of just wave perfection, yes perhaps. Brian Beilmann’s black and white film shot of Bruce dropping in probably is the best all time in terms of pure drama.
There were some sick ones of Ronnie Burns RIP that Beilmann captured….
Oh which one is that? Can you find?
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I see what you mean. The wave has the same substantial stone masonry as the Vatican!
bruce in his prime
Woody called the shop once when I was working and personally told me this one was “best” and to remind me to push his prints.
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Rizal Tanjung. That is an impressive image…
Full disclosure- I’d never leave the safety of the shore on a day like that at pipe, but a roll-in on a 8’6″ Brewer and all those filters did elicit, at least for a moment, the delusional thought that it could be me in that pit. That split second of fantasy is what made it a great shot for a kook like me.
it’s beautiful and i love, love the pulled back angle. i don’t know how i feel about the lens flare in the corner, though. I guess it adds drama, maybe.
Awwww I never noticed it and now it’s ruined!
I agree Jen it’s an amazing surf photo, so beautiful. Pulled back angle is totally underrated, WSL would do it more if they trusted their audience.
Especially on the pointbreaks at the moment of take off just so we have an idea of what’s at stake ?
yeah James exactly. It’s so strange to just see zoomed in sections of J-Bay. You lose all sense of speed and distance, you lose the majesty of the wave. Every time they pull back the angle for a few seconds I find it thrilling to see the whole line up reeling off.
Opening the doors of perspective and the point of view of the observer !
you would enjoy the women events. no close ups anymore. looks like its shot from the car park with a fuji film disposable.
Hmmm … is that meant to discourage fawning gazes upon athletic rear ends? If so the WSL will need to try harder. I’ve got a very particular set of skills ….
agree. the flare is a little bothersome. but nothing a little photoshop can’t fix. reality is this is a digital world. and if the common folk seen what most of these shots looked like raw, editing would not take away from the capture but could even enhance it.
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fun sheriff.