Standoff: Surfers and jetski pilots clash
over big wave in Oregon!
By Chas Smith
Also rogue logs!
Do you have a vested interest in the ski vs.
paddle debate? Are you a bold jetski pilot, thrilling your friends
with trips out to the big stuff? Are you a traditionalist who would
rather give up surfing altogether rather than fill the air with an
exhaust-laden whine?
I am neither but a new clash in my home state of Oregon makes me
want to choose sides.
Nelscott Reef, directly west from Salem, is Oregon’s premier big
wave even featuring a big wave contest but lately its also a
battlefield. And let us turn to the Newport Times
for more.
Surfing will take the spotlight at a city council meeting
Monday, Jan. 28, where big-wave promoter John Forse intends to
lodge a complaint against rival surfers over another dangerous
incident at Nelscott Reef.
Forse released a photograph this week of a chilling
encounter between a jet ski and a surfer that shows them on a
collision path. No injuries occurred as the 750-pound watercraft
veered away at the last moment. Forse said the incident occurred
about a week ago during non-contest conditions.
“The jet-ski was going 30 to 35 mph,” claimed Forse, saying
state marine laws forbid motorized boats from straying within 100
feet of surfers. “It’s like driving a boat through a group of
swimmers.”
Meanwhile, Oregon State Police say they are monitoring the
situation, which falls into their jurisdiction.
State Trooper Scott Severson stated, “Jet skiiers will be
cited if appropriate, and we will shut down (any contests) if
operations are unsafe.”
The newly-documented encounter comes in the wake of another
incident that occurred during a Nov. 29, 2017, big wave contest
where several onlookers were struck and briefly pinned by a log
that swept onto the beach.
Forse, who founded big-wave surfing at the reef and has held
an annual contest there since 2004, claimed the city contributed to
the unsafe situation by issuing a license to a rival group that was
fined in municipal court as a result of the 2017 beach
accident.
Well that got very exciting at the end. The log that pinned
onlookers during the event? A rival group of fans? What sort of log
was it? Maybe one of Erik Logan’s @infinity_sup #blurrV2?
I’ll get to the bottom of it.
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From the shear-that-goddamn-shit-off-me
dept: Firewire releases surfboard made from sheep hair!
By Steve Rees
You’re all filthy, gnawing rats killing the planet.
Now buy this surfboard.
The story goes that New Zealand shaper Paul Barron was
pouring resin over a board and spilt some on his wool
sweater. It’s a story of ruined outerwear, to be
sure, but there’s more.
The moment gave Barron a spark.
Three years on, Barron Surfboards is working with Mark Price of
Firewire to use wool cloth instead of traditional fiberglass
wrap.
The “Woolight” boards should be available this new year.
But why bring shepherds in? ‘Cause fiberglass ain’t too
eco-anything and wool-based resin is much friendlier to the planet,
much more “sustainable”, as they say.
According to Barron and Price, it’s also going to help a
troubled wool industry in NZ.
Price says, “The closer we can bring our surfing equipment to
the natural world and reduce its toxicity it’s a win.”
Ahh, the surfboard as message, metaphor and theory!
The past few years have shown us boards made from a mishmash of
materials: discarded cardboard, tossed aluminum cans, cigarette
butts (mine), vinyl records, Styrofoam coffee cups and any other
piece of roadside trash coloring the highway.
The now-drying Tom Wolfe shared that any successful piece of
modern art needs a theory – a message – and these art boards
certainly come ready: you’re all filthy, gnawing rats killing the
planet.
Now, buy my art board.
These things are more installation than vehicle, though,
yes?
The unusual greyish wool decks on the Barron/Firewire look equal
parts tool and art, but maybe not the kinds we see hung over a
fireplace.
The now-drying Tom Wolfe shared that any
successful piece of modern art needs a theory – a message – and
these art boards certainly come ready: You’re all filthy, gnawing
rats killing the planet. Now, buy my art board.
These Woolight boards might say something about sustainability,
sure, but also gliding on seriously fine equipment. Testers say
that they’ve got the same feel as a normal glassed board. When he’s
not prattling on with Chas in aisle six, Machado’s even had them
underfoot, not a bad endorsement.
(Or should we wait for an official Longtom review before
throwing out our cash for the shepherd’s delight?)
Either way, most of us would be numb to the subtleties.
And question marks pop up, too, about widespread use of
eco-boards by the everyman. South African outfit Hurricane
Surfboards plays with bio-materials like flax and hemp. Word is
that Twiggy Baker will be riding them exclusively next season and
that’s great, but they say the boards have much longer curing times
than resin and eco-materials costs up to 300% more to use. That’s
gotta pass down to you and me somehow.
So, let’s get some perspective in here by Surf Prescriptions
deity Jeff Doc Lausch.
Doc’s been planer-in-hand for over thirty years and knows a bit
about glass.
“I’m all for new materials that out-perform and are better for
the environment. However, if they fail in being as strong, easy to
work with, and cosmetically beautiful then it doesn’t make much
sense to me,” he says.
But has Doc ever played with alt-materials?
“The first surfboard I ever made, in 1969, was a stripped-down
log that I glassed in my friend’s carport with a bedsheet and
polyester resin. Board lasted about 15 minutes!”
Always interested in alternate materials, though, he never
abandoned the idea and a couple of years ago built some boards with
cardboard core.
“One was wrapped in paper that was soaked in some poly-latex
paint stuff. Board lasted about one hour. The other was wrapped in
fiberglass soaked in polyester resin and the board was strong and
durable. It’s still rideable today.”
Doc offers a reasonable balance.
He says that he believes all of us surfers care deeply about the
environment, but we also care about surfing at the highest level of
our abilities. If there is an alternative that proves to be equal
or better in all areas of performance and durability it will be
accepted.
“Fiberglass has proven to be all things needed to manufacture
and state of the art performance surf craft.
Cleanly stated, “fibreglass rules,” says the good doctor.
Firewire keeps a hard eye on the future, and there’s talk about
expanding the wool technology to boats and other craft.
A good investment here?
Is there a market for this?
Or do we simply care first about steamrolling waves on trusted
fiberglass?
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Kohn Christensen defrosts a delectable treasure two
nights ago at Pipe. | Photo: Photo by Daniel Russo
Kelly Slater: “Is this the best Pipeline
shot of all time?”
By Derek Rielly
"This picture sums up why we surf," says Champ.
In case you haven’t been strolling the golden sands of
the North Shore this past week, here’s some news.
The waves have been real good.
The sorta surf that makes you caw like a sat-on cat. Or, if
you’re the timid kind, makes your eyes fill up with tears.
The angle, and the longer lens, gives this very heavy day a rare
distant softness.
“Is this the best Pipeline shot of all time? On his last wave of
the day, on the best day of the year, on his final ride before the
birth of his second daughter…a roll-in from Second Reef on an 8’6”
Brewer,” Kelly Slater announced to his two million Instagram
followers. “This picture sums up why we surf. And nobody seems to
be more in tune with the ocean than Kohl.”
Russo, for his part, tell me, “I’m biased but I’m putting it as
my best image ever at Pipeline. I feel like this winter
has seen a record amount of good days at Pipeline. Plenty of
magical waves, goals achieved by surfers and so on. But the
illusion to capture that one moment hadn’t showed up until this
wave. The time of day that created classic backlit Pipeline. The
time of year allowing the sun, the tide and winds to align just
right; the energy that travelled thousands of miles under the ocean
surface starting in Japan. Then for it to spike up on the Second
Reef of Pipeline. Kohl manifested this wave as left Haleiwa on my
jetski. As we made our way past Shark’s Cove we could see the spray
coming off the backs of the waves at Pipeline. We knew we were
headed in the right direction. And we were in the right place at
the right time.”
And here’s how it went down, says Russo.
“After about an hour a set stood up near Third Reef. It didn’t
break, it just stood up. The Pipeline reef locked in the swell and
started to cross it up to form a multi-wave set. The first two were
a little wide, drawing the water off the reef. Then the third wave
of the set came and Kohl paddled into it. Perception of one’s
experience can vary from person to person. But this image is
exactly what happened. To me, this is the exclamation mark of the
winter at Pipeline. Oh, how good it’s been.”
Now, to Kelly’s charge: The best shot at Pipe?
Ever?
Who wants to play?
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Breaking: Australians drowning at record
levels while Surf Life Saving CEO vacations!
By Chas Smith
“Thousands of volunteers having been turning up all
summer long pulling people out of the water, trying their best to
keep our beaches safe and this bloke’s on holiday, you’re kidding,
it’s embarrassing."
I don’t really have a horse in this race nor do
I even understand surf life saving associations in Australia BUT I
love a screaming headline and also any loose narrative tie to Nero
fiddling while Rome burned.
Is any image more profound?
Historians dispute the accuracy, pointing to the facts that the
fiddle didn’t exist until the 11th century and Nero was likely at
his country home when the great fire destroyed, though they also
say he may have sung songs about a different fire in another
town.
Seventy-three people have drowned around the country in the
53 days since December 1.
That’s more than a drowning a day, almost a third of the
2017/18 death toll and 26 more fatalities than at this point last
year and still with a month left of summer – according to data
provided to 9news.com.au by Royal Life Saving Australia.
Despite those alarming figures, the CEO of Australia’s peak
coastal water safety, drowning prevention and rescue authority –
Surf Life Saving Australia – is currently on holiday and has not
been contactable by 9news.com.au for the past two weeks.
A spokesperson for SLSA has told 9news.com.au Adam Weir –
the SLSA’s chief representative positioned to respond to spikes in
costal water safety incidents – has taken leave during the summer
until at least January 25 but says he is in touch daily with key
staff.
Around the country, the summer period has been disastrous
when it comes to drownings on Australia’s beaches, rivers, lakes
and pools, which have risen to a near-record level.
9news.com.au does not suggest the CEO’s absence is related
to the increased number of drownings.
One volunteer surf life saver who patrols that beach told
9news.com.au he thought the situation was “embarrassing”.
“Thousands of volunteers having been turning up all summer
long pulling people out of the water, trying their best to keep our
beaches safe and this bloke’s on holiday, you’re kidding, it’s
embarrassing,” he told 9news.com.au.
So what should the new saying be? Australians drown while CEO
hoedowns? Australians drowns while CEO enjoys delicious cocktails
in town?
I feel we can do better.
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Rumor: “Cost-cutting and belt-tightening at
the World Surf League as Dirk Ziff runs out of patience!”
By Chas Smith
Workers nervously rub hands together!
Oh it has been so quite up Santa Monica way
since Dear General Secretary Sophie Goldschmidt, released a
stirring propaganda
video and I suppose that I assumed it was business as
usual, preparing for the upcoming season, sending detractors to
re-education camps, morning hymns to the Father of Modern
Professional Surfing Comrade Dirk Ziff etc.
BUT a hot new rumor straight from a highly placed source in the
High Tower suggests there is turmoil behind the beaming facade.
That the Father of Modern Professional Surfing Comrade Dirk Ziff is
running out of patience. That owning professional surfing was maybe
not as fun and/or profitable as suggested by wife and/or
friends.
First, it has been alleged that Terry Hardy, one of the
architects of the Association of Surfing Professionals re-brand
into the World Surf League and Kelly Slater’s longtime manager is
leaving the organization. Whether jump or push is unclear. Mr.
Hardy had a very hands-on role for many years, apparently, and
would certainly have been one of the more, if not most,
knowledgable people in any WSL room. Did he leave for another
opportunity or another “opportunity” (in Siberia)?
We shall see.
Second, there has been cost-cutting and belt-tightening across
the board. Freezes etc. The Father of Modern Professional Surfing
Comrade Dirk Ziff has never made himself available for interviews
with the surf media so any guess as to what he is thinking is
simply that. It has been assumed that he has enough money to dump
down professional surfing’s gaping maw forever but exceedingly rich
people don’t become exceedingly rich via unsound financial
moves.
Will Surf Ranches be hustled out posthaste? Will tour events be
trimmed and/or professional surfers? Will the non-surfing masses
finally turn on and tune in, creating a cornucopia of
opportunity?
