Mystery: One-time “Shark Capital of the
World” Cape Town, South Africa has lost all of its “man-eating”
Great Whites!
By Chas Smith
Scientists don't know why but I do.
I’ve been so busy keeping up with the heaps and
heaps of Great White sharks turning my once bucolic North County,
San Diego paradise into a blood-curdling hell that
I’ve not kept up with one-time “Shark Capital of the World” Cape
Town, South Africa. The man-eating beasts were a constant threat
for Afrikaans-speaking locals. Attacks were not uncommon and
neither were deaths. Extremely scary but waters once teeming with
ghastly teeth and rolled-back eyes are now peaceful. No Great White
has been spotted in over eighteen months.
Scientists are uncertain as to what led to the prehistoric
villain’s disappearance. The fair and balanced Sydney Morning
Herald reports:
Between 2010 and 2016 staff at the Shark Spotting Program,
established to warn swimmers when the three-tonne predators
approached beaches, reported an average of 205 sightings of the
fish off the beaches of False Bay.
In 2018 that fell to 50 and this year not one has been seen.
None have been seen at Seal Island, a one-time feeding ground off
the coast.
“Further supporting evidence of the absence of these large
apex predators is the lack of any feeding or bite marks on whale
carcasses the city has removed from False Bay this year,” Cape
Town’s municipality said in a statement on Wednesday.
“We do not know how their absence from False Bay would
affect the ecosystem. Neither do we know the causes for their
disappearance.”
Ahhhh but I know. The bastards have packed their blood-thirst
and come on over to my once pastoral North County, San Diego,
turning it into a post-apocalyptic nightmare.
What gave the bastards reason to pack their blood-thirst and
move? Again, scientists are uncertain. Some believe overfishing has
led to their flight. Others believe that the arrival of Orcas
caused them to leave.
I’ve been preaching pet Orcas in the
lineup for years. I trust that the North County, San
Diego powers-that-be finally take me seriously and especially those
with ties to Kelly Slater’s preferred theme park Sea World.
More as the story develops.
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Listen: “The power of shame is a curious
thing; makes one man weep, makes another man sing!”
By Chas Smith
Surf talk.
The Tahiti Pro Teahupoo presented by Hurley is
still fresh on my lips, especially that penultimate day, and it
saddens me greatly that it will be chased by hot action from a
steamy pool in Lemoore, California. Oh, I know Freshwater Pro is
still weeks away but the depression is already creeping. I love our
times together during the contests. Love our “live chats” but truly
don’t know if I’ll be able to muster the requisite oomph in order
to turn that Freshwater Pro on to watch with you. The mechanical
drone of the sled. The odd format. The cows grazing and gazing over
the fence at sunburned sows throwing back Michelob Ultra Gold
brewed with Zoe Kravitz.
Shame on the World Surf League for introducing that cursed tank
to the tour.
Shame!
Speaking of, I drove to Album surfboards yesterday, there in San
Clemente, and sat down with David Lee
Scales to discuss all manner of this and that. We
spent much time on shame and how sad that it has vanished, more or
less, from our safespace snowflake surfing world. I got on, again,
about how World Surf League commentators’ refusal to say what we
are all seeing, that the Panda and Yago Dora were too afraid to
surf, was an insult to us.
Shame is a powerful tool and useful too. Every time I have been
kicked into shame’s burning klieg light I’ve been thankful, later.
Sure it stings, sure it burns, but hopefully it burns another
little piece of weak will. Another little bit of lily-liver.
We need more shame.
David Lee and I also discussed style, the whole Big Wave thing
and the greatest show that has ever appeared on television. Can you
guess what it is? Shame is omnipresent!
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Sea Change: The World Surf League radically
alters their Big Wave World Tour!
By Chas Smith
"People are small, waves are big and far away!"
Were you on the edge of your seat, wondering
what the World Surf League was going to do with their Big Wave
World Tour leading into the northern hemisphere fall/winter
2019/2020? Neither was I but an important press release sent out
this morning also sent ripples across the surf journalism world.
Ripples so big, so robust, as to form into a “big wave” themselves
and shall we read together? We have to. We can’t not.
Today, the World Surf League (WSL) announced its new and
enhanced Big Wave platform. WSL’s new platform for big wave surfing
will deliver unrivaled big wave action through the new Strike
Missions series, reimagined events, the Big Wave Awards, and
year-round content, all centralized into a new digital home
designed to spotlight the boundary-pushing performances by big wave
surfers.
The new WSL Big Wave platform raises the profile of big wave
surfing and empowers its athletes by capturing and showcasing more
exciting big wave moments. Instead of waiting for swells to hit,
the dynamic new platform will allow the WSL to be faster to react,
going deeper into the action whenever and wherever the biggest
waves are breaking. This will offer fans the most thrilling
content, including strike mission highlights, and the latest news
in the world of big wave surfing.
The WSL’s new platform will feature four distinct areas, in
addition to year-round content: the Strike Missions series, the
Jaws Big Wave World Championships at Pe’ahi, the Nazaré Tow
Challenge, and the Big Wave Awards.
The Strike Missions series will track swell models and
deploy WSL camera teams into the eye of the storm in order to
showcase big wave surfing beyond competitions. With the launch of
WSL Studios earlier this year, this new content will bring fans
closer to big wave surfing than ever before through exclusive
behind-the-scenes storytelling and unparalleled
highlights.
“I am excited about the big picture here and looking at big
wave surfing differently with this new platform,” said Keala
Kennelly, reigning Big Wave World Champion. “The new approach is
going to reflect the reality and adaptability of big wave surfing
where these incredible feats happen at any time, and with WSL, I
want to be able to share these epic moments with the
world.”
The WSL will host two reimagined events this season at
Pe’ahi, Hawaii and Nazaré, Portugal. The Jaws Big Wave World
Championships at Pe’ahi will feature the best and most proven big
wave surfers from around the world to decide the men’s and women’s
Big Wave World Champions. Big wave surfing’s most iconic break,
Pe’ahi (aka Jaws), is known as the greatest test of skill and
courage in the paddle surfing universe. The Nazaré Tow Challenge
will host invitees as they utilize jet skis to tow into Nazaré’s
biggest waves. Nazaré is the home of world record-setting waves and
will display barrier-breaking surfing in this never-before-seen
competition.
Etc.
Important but do you really really care about the Big Wave World
Tour? I didn’t until today but this “Strike Mission” business mixed
in with a grand slam format seems the future of professional
surfing and I just had to call Senior Vice-President of Tours Etc.
famous professional surfer and star of Endless Summer II Pat
O’Connell for more. He was gracious enough to take my call and also
gracious enough to speak truth.
Chas: I don’t care that Mavericks has been
disappeared. Those locals should be stoked. They get the best days
of their year back. Any Mavericks aficionado will be partying in
the streets right now. Freedom!
(I laugh)
Pat: So what we’re really trying to do here is
deliver on a year ’round proposition. To capture the pinnacle
moments and let’s take Tahiti for example. If we can capture that
content of epic swell days and deliver it to the people quickly,
why wouldn’t we do that? People are small, waves are big and far
away. All we’re trying to do is make this more accessible and with
this new format I think it’s the best way to make that happen.
Chas: I completely agree and think you should
shift this format onto the regular tour?
Pat: There’s no plans for that yet but we take
things as they happen every day.
Chas: Well hurry up with those plans!
We chatted lots more, a freewheeling discussion about surfing,
in general, and professional surfing, specifically. Pat is engaged
in the process and but ruthlessly narrowing down the big wave
events to two that are guaranteed to run every year then adding a
fun, reflexive video component seems the way the entire enterprise
should go.
Don’t you agree?
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Joel Tudor on Amazon rainforest fires:
“Don’t believe the hype!”
By Chas Smith
"Is the forest burning?" "No burning."
And have you been following along with the
troubles in the “lungs of the earth?” Of course you have. Of course
you know that the Amazon is burning thanks to either a relaxation
of restrictions from Brazil’s President Jair Bolsonaro, record heat
or, as President Bosonaro claimed, non-governmental workers
frustrated that their wages have cut and are taking it out on the
rainforest.
All news outlets report that fires in the Amazon are up over 80%
compared with last year. Many fires. Many many fires. Or are
there?
Two days ago, professional longboarder Joel Tudor posted a video
on his very entertaining Instagram account featuring a Brazilian
jiu-jitsu aficionado and a one-time director of sports from the
Amazon region.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1shEmenahC/
The BJJ aficionado introduces his friend then asks, “Is the
Amazon burning?”
The one-time director of sports answers, “No burning.”
The two go on to profess much support for President Jair
Bolsonaro claiming that the only thing burning are the hearts and
consciences of those disrespecting him.
Joel Tudor captions the post “Don’t believe the hype!”
So, is the rainforest really not burning?
Have we been scammed?
Help!
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Anonymous giving DFK hell. Billy
Lee-Pope
Longtom on the Cabianca/Medina DFK: “The
easiest pro level board I’ve wrangled!”
By Longtom
Our reviewer finds the Holy Grail of surfboards, an
ultra-high performance sled for the immediate surfer…
It does seem a little like cheating when you get, not
just what you want, but what you need and with perfect
timing.
Thus it was, that around the same time Medina had slayed J-Bay
on his 6’0” DFK by Johnny Cabianca I received mine in the same
dimensions, in time for a six-week run of perfect waves where my
local resembled a sub-tropical warm water version of J-Bay, except
better.
Sure, I got chipped for it by local wags.
“What, you think you’re fucking Gabe Medina?”
Yeah, if Gabe was reincarnated as a bald, albino with
intermediate skills. I do, after many hours in the sun look like a
plucked and cooked turkey, so I guess me and Gabs (armpits) do have
that in common.
The dominant narrative on Gabe’s boards is that you could stick
deck chairs on ’em and host baby boomer cruises to the South
Pacific with very little modification.
That did not gel with my initial impression.
I felt a very balanced, slightly lower rockered round tail
shortboard with the only noteworthy features being a slightly
thicker tail foil and a very crisp edge on the bottom tail rail
extending forwards of the fin cluster. Subtle bottom contours.
The thing felt damn good. Substantial.
Almost invariably the initial impressions of a new sled are
determined by context, what you’ve been riding and where. I’d been
cycling through some insane surfboards for good point waves: a 6’3”
roundpin Maurice Cole Protow custom, 6’6” Desert Storm custom
swallowtail and, on days when the westerly wind was howling or the
devil wind was in, a 7’3” Aleutian Juice custom Vector-Cuda. The
best quiver I’ve ever had for good waves.
A 6’0”, no matter how generously foiled, was always going to be
easy to power up after cycling down from those boards.
I’m shit with my hands but before I rode the DFK I did a little
DIY mod to the BeachGrit tail-pad, based on a positive
experience with a Necro pad and negative one with a Connor Coffin
pad. I figured a low, subtle kick was to my taste so took a
stanley-knife and hacked the kick in half. That turned out to be a
very good move.
A ruled-edge long period east swell greeted my maiden
voyage.
Crisp, before sunrise on a Sunday morning. Strangely uncrowded.
Sizzling little head-high racetracks. It took very little to get
this board humming. Maybe the first wave or two felt little
sketchy, a bit under-powered due to coming off much longer rail
lines.
It took less than half the session to figure out the board
wanted to be surfed simply and definitively from top to bottom with
no wiggles or double pumps to keep the water flowing through the
fins or the concaves engaged.
Since I T-boned an elderly Vietnamese man on a rainy night in
Byron Bay and got shown the door from bus driving* I’ve had to
account for my time with more prudence.
As a full-time freelancer two go-outs in a day is rare. Feels
too indulgent.
But my Bribie pal had come back from FIFO in the Tanami desert,
which is the middle of Australia if you’ve never heard of it. He
was keen for a paddle, and although I’m not a leave passer I did
get the second bite of the cherry with the blessing of my
spouse.
Second surfs always feel better.
I never pretend to be anything more than high intermediate,
competent is the vain term. The DFK is a board that is reassuringly
easy to come to grips with. After riding various high-performance
shortboards I’ve come to believe that control is the most important
variable.
In sunny head-high point surf, with just a ruffle of side
breeze, the DFK felt very, very solid. Leveraging speed off the
bottom to go straight back into the top third felt seamless, and
you can push that as hard as you like.
Generating rhythmic momentum from turn to turn very much within
my grasp.
I never pretend to be anything more than high intermediate,
competent is the vain term. The DFK is a board that is reassuringly
easy to come to grips with. After riding various high-performance
shortboards I’ve come to believe that control is the most important
variable.
That balance between sensitivity and drive has to be tilted
firmly in the drive quadrant, for me, to be able to get the board
where I want it go. Struggling with control is almost the
definition of a board outside your area of expertise.
I felt confident pushing this board very hard, from that second
surf onwards. That had generally positive results. We can all
agree, I hope, a point of difference for Gabe’s surfing is the
ability to switch from hi-fi, fins-free or aerial attack to classic
power-based carving.
My skill set did not extend to the former but very much enjoyed
the latter on the DFK.
The only mixed bag came in a crowded Saturday surf where the
Grace of God smiled upon me and I jagged three set waves in quick
succession. Threading through a heavy pack I thought I could blast
a backhand high hook on the corner of a tubing section with
multiple people to dodge. Ended up catching an outside edge and
slamming hard.
Not sure whether it was the rail of my board or someone elses or
the wave but I spent the rest of the day thinking I was having a
heart attack. Rib cartilage or broken rib. Nothing Nurofen before and after a surf
couldn’t fix.
The only other slight caution is to be on your fin game.
I think Gabe’s DFK is the easiest pro level board I’ve
wrangled.
The trend among most pros has been to increase volume. You’d
have to give Matt Biolos credit for that. When Fanning jumped on
the Mayhems (at Trestles) and changed the emphasis to more volume
he got better immediately.
All up, from pro to Joe people mostly look better and surfing
feels better on something that paddles and has some glide, even at
the high-perf level. There’s really only one human being alive who
looks good on an underpowered sled and we call him the greatest of
all time.
Toledo gets away with bladier boards.
Julian’s still look underpowered to my eye, especially now
compared to Medina.
JJF has added litreage.
All up, from pro to Joe people mostly look better and surfing
feels better (to me) on something that paddles and has some glide,
even at the high-perf level. There’s really only one human being
alive who looks good on an underpowered sled and we call him the
greatest of all time.
A way forwards for the rec surfer is to get your top end dialed
and customised, make sure your good-wave sleds are as good as they
can be. That gives latitude for experimentation in the
high-performance “space”, if you’ll pardon the corporate
malapropism.
Johnny Cabianca has put a high-performance sled square into the
Goldilocks zone for the average recreational surfer. I cannot
recommend highly enough.
I rode my DFK as a stock 6’0”, just under thirty litres of
volume.
* I had two witnesses who testified he was driving without
lights on. No matter, I got shitcanned.