Finn McGill knifing real pretty four-to-six-foot Pipe at the Trials.

Comment Live: Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons trails i.e. Pipe Invitational!

The storm before the calm!

Today is almost the beginning of non-elimination heat surfing. Excited? You should be. Hawaiians are in the water vying for the two spots that have been carved down from fifteen, or something, a few years ago.

An absolute gutting.

I loved those older times, when Hawaiians, born and bred at Pipeline and/or Kauai, would run Champion Tour surfers up and down the reef. Scaring them into oblivion. Now these Hawaiians have their own “event” called the Pipe Invitational which feels a bit like an interment camp.

Does it not?

A representative from the World Surf League once told me, directly after the absolute gutting, that if I actually looked at the heat scores during those robust Hawaiian years, I would see most of them losing in early rounds and none of them really affecting much of anything.

Rude.

For surfing is what we feel in our hearts, not numbers that appear on bland pieces of paper.

No?

In any case, enjoy the show here but don’t forget to leave li’l ol’ BeachGrit open so you can be amongst friends for we do not know what the World Surf League is capable of. First they came for the Hawaiians, and I did not speak out — because I wasn’t Hawaiian.

Etc.


Selfless hero: Filipino surfer opts to save competitor from drowning instead of winning gold in Southeast Asian Games!

Come read the tale of Roger Casugay!

And have you ever done anything heroic or, at the very least, imagined yourself doing something heroic? I think it is human nature to picture ourselves at the very nexus of some colossal event. A hurricane blowing through town and access to Ol’ Doc Marten’s place has been washed out but we, fearlessly, grab our surfboards, paddle in and save the day. A child has climbed too high into a tree but we, bravely, climb up afterward, put the quivering youngster on our strong backs and, again, save the day.

Yes, we would all be great assets in/around any tragedy or high-stakes moment but what if there was also a gold medal on the line? What if saving the day also meant losing? Would we be that quick, that… selfless?

And let us meet true hero Roger Casugay from the Philippines. Let us study an example of good, proper decision making.

Filipino surfer Roger Casugay earned the Philippines its first-ever gold medal in surfing at the Southeast Asian Games today (Dec. 8). But even before winning the men’s longboard competition, the 25-year-old athlete was already heralded as the event’s hero for an unselfish act during a semi-final round last week.

Casugay was leading a one-on-one race against Indonesian surfer Arip Nurhidayat Friday (Dec. 6) when he noticed that Nurhidayat broke his ankle leash and was swept by towering waves at Monaliza Point, La Union in northern Philippines. Typhoon Kammuri (called Tisoy locally) has made conditions challenging at the 30th edition of the biennial sporting event.

Casugay, a surfing instructor, paddled back to Nurhidayat and helped him back to shore. Spectator Jefferson Ganuelas described the scene on Facebook, noting Casugay “rescued him not minding the ongoing race for gold medal.”

Sports fans—including many Indonesians on Twitter—are calling Casugay a hero, a title he’s uneasy with. “No, I’m not a hero,” he said to Rappler. “I didn’t really save him from drowning. He is a good swimmer. I just calmed him down.”

“We have a brotherhood in surfing,” he told CNN. “If someone needs help, you go. I didn’t think about winning and [am] just relieved that we were both safe. We were overjoyed when we reached the shore.”

Well, I guess the selfless hero won a gold medal anyhow and see? We should always be very dubious when served up a theoretical either/or. We should point to Roger Casugay and say, “Both.”

 


Are you the new custodian of Wayne Lynch's North Coast spread?

Gimme: Surf-prodigy-turned-master-shaper’s $3 million beach-mountain hideaway!

A backyard waterfall and your own environmentally friendly shaping room…

If you wanna buy real estate, pick a beach you wanna surf and buy as big a hunk of dirt as close to it as you can. Prices will dip, spike, and they’ll plateau, but over the years it’ll turn into a bankroll that’ll get you through your harvest years.

Lifestyle and cash? Who knew it was that easy.

Wayne Lynch, the child prodigy of the sixties whose backside jams in the movie Evolution were roughly 12 years ahead of the rest of the world, bought four-and-a-half hectares on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, sold it for a little under four-mill five years ago and moved to a beach-mountain hideaway just behind Byron Bay.

Now that prime piece of fine dirt with a nearby waterfall that’ll hold you spellbound for many hours or provide a scenic backdrop for self-portraits is for sale for a little under three-million Australian dollars.

Two hundred and thirty-one Frasers Road, Mullumbimby even comes with its own shaping room.

Make boards like Wayne.

Put on your raincoat, the real-estate spiel is about to rain down.

Diverse topography, rolling green slopes, lush rainforest with old growth trees backing onto a National Park. Two permanent drought proof spring fed dams, plus generous creekfront.

Backyard waterfall.

The comfortable ranch style home offers an easy living floor plan flowing out to covered outdoor areas. Relax and soak in the ambience of this unique place. Take a dip in the inground saltwater pool to keep cool on those hot summer days and enjoy the captivating views.

Comfortable, ranch-style home.

Spacious open plan kitchen and dining, plus two light filled living areas, four bedrooms and two bathrooms.

Away from the home with its own access is the working hub of three fantastic sheds boasting 5KVA of high quality solar power. The Australian Hall of Fame Inductee owner and world champion surfer has designed and created an environment friendly shaping room for producing his sought after unique custom made surfboards. Its an inspiring and tranquil work setting.

The perfect spot to observe the weather, build some cabins, (STCA), improve the acre (approx) of permaculture garden or if you have a helicopter, theres room for a helipad! The options are endless.

Within 15 minutes from the colourful and relaxed town of Mullumbimby and less than ½ hour from the beaches of Byron Shire. Gold Coast airport is only 52 mins away.

Book your inspection here.


Taylor Steele, pictured, enjoying his tequila while playing an uncertain card game.
Taylor Steele, pictured, enjoying his tequila while playing an uncertain card game.

Entrepreneurship: Iconic surf filmmaker Taylor Steele hangs up camera, launches “high-end, organic sipping tequila” brand!

Ain't life grand?

If you could, right now, “transition” away from your current job and start a new career, what would you become? A Cirque du Soleil performer? Seasonal Halloween superstore manager? Surf traction and accessories rep? If “making money” is the actual goal, it’d be hard to dismiss getting into the alcohol game. Beer brand St. Archer flipped a few years back for tens upon tens of millions of dollars. Balter, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson et. al.’s brainchild, flipped days ago for tens upon tens of millions of dollars.

Well, iconic surf filmmaker Taylor Steele is a smart man and switching from surf film making into tequila mastering, much like George Clooney, and let’s learn about his certain future tens upon tens of millions of dollars. Let’s tuck right into The San Diego Union-Tribune, pour some salt on our hands and ready a lime wedge.

For more than 30 years, legendary surf filmmaker Taylor Steele has been traveling the world with his career in overdrive.

But this year, the 47-year-old father of two has intentionally shifted his life into a lower gear. He moved back to North County after more than 20 years away and last month, he officially launched his Encinitas-based lifestyle brand, Solento.

A composite word that Steele says means “slow sun,” Solento reflects a new phase in his life where he’s reconnecting with old friends and taking the time to savor his environment and enjoy life more. The company’s first product is a high-end organic sipping tequila designed to be savored slowly.

“Tequila is an entry place to have a ritual experience with people,” he said of his entry into the bottled spirits industry. “It might feel like it’s a bit of a change to someone looking from the outside, but it feels very natural to me. It’s where I’m at in my space, trying to connect more.”

It was while he was living in Australia that Steele discovered artisan tequila during a trip to a family-owned agave farm in Jalisco, Mexico.

“I fell in love with the intricacies of tequila. It’s more like wine than vodka. Each harvest has a different flavor. It’s a beautiful thing,” he said.

Etc.

The piece goes on to detail how Steele hopes to grow the Solento brand beyond tequila and it is an inspiration but, back to you, to us, if we were going to get into the alcohol game together which sort should we choose?

Let’s take tequila off the table, let’s not compete directly with Taylor Steele and let’s also leave craft beers behind which leaves us with…

Scotch?

Spiced rum?

Sparkling wine?

Help!


No leg but still smiling! Jon Cohen at one of his demonstrations, pump nearby to simulate artery hit.

No-leg-still-smiling: The $30 device that can save a surfer’s life even after Great White hit!

"It might be scary to talk about but it's reassuring to know that there is something you can do and it's not complicated." 

The spectre of turning around and seeing your pal getting de-limbed by a Great White ain’t the stuff of abstract nightmares around Western Australia’s south-west.

It happens.

But a shark attack, even by a monster White, doesn’t necessarily mean a death sentence.

Recently, I took a phone call from the former world number sixteen surfer Mitch Thorson, now a real estate agent and owner of West wetsuits in Margaret River.

Over the past half-a-doz years Mitch has been a regular contact whenever I needed a little insider trading around the latest shark hit or bump or whatever. He grew up surfing at Rottnest Island, a sharky enough joint just off the Perth coast, and moved into Margs before the Whites started to make their presence felt from 2004 onwards.

Mitch thought I might be interested in a “Shark Bite Management Demonstration” he was running with a couple of emergency department doctors, John Cohen and Phil Chapman.

It’s the not-so-new reality around these parts.

In 2018, the Margaret River Pro was cancelled when there were two Great White hits within five hours of each other. 

There’s sharks, there’s going to be hits. Be prepared.

What do you do?

First, losing a leg don’t mean you or you pal is going to die. It’s not going to be pretty, but Jesus ain’t necessarily sending his angels down just yet.

According to Cohen, who is thirty-nine and who grew up in Canada and got into surfing while at college in Hawaii, if you can get the de-limbed person to the beach and apply a tourniquet above the wound so no blood can spurt out the hole you’re good.

He say that once you’ve stopped the blood flow you’ve got four hours before the leg, or arm, is choked off and dies. It means if you’re at a remote beach with no phone redemption, you can tourniquet the wound and take off for an ambulance or chopper without your buddy dying.

“It’s the same principle as a car crash, someone falling off a building or getting hit by a bullet in Iraq,” says Cohen. “Stop the bleeding and get the surfer to shore. In thirty seconds, using a tourniquet, you’ve saved a friend’s life.”

But, who’s got a tourniquet, right?

Cohen’s eureka moment came in 2016 when he pulled up to a gorgeous lefthand point just out of Yallingup: classic conditions, six-foot waves and nobody in the lineup.

One guy came in saying he thought he saw a shark.

“He was freaking out,” says Cohen. “It was just after that Mandurah attack and sharks were on everybody’s mind. I ended up going out but it wasn’t enjoyable. How could there be perfect waves, no one out and I wasn’t having a great time? What the fuck?”

Cohen, who’s worked the emergency room at nearby Busselton Hospital, figured he had the expertise so why couldn’t he help solve the problem of preventable shark attack deaths?

He knew that most Great White hits were a bit-and-release taste test so once the shark left, if you thought quickly enough a life could be saved.

Cohen spent three years trying to bring to market a tourniquet that was was so light it didn’t interfere with your surfing, you could apply it with one hand and you could do it ten seconds.

It got to the point where all the designers and engineers he spoke to wanted fifty-grand or a hundred gees to get it ready for production.

So he pulled back, repurposed military tourniquets and sells ’em on his site bettersurf.com.au for thirty bucks apiece or sixty if you want a version built into a legrope.

It’s clearly no get-rich-quick pitch.

“I know I’m not going to make a million dollars. I just want to get ’em out there,” he says.

Cohen also offers free downloads of first aid books on his site.

In January, he’ll be working in the emergency department of Esperance Hospital, the same joint where seventeen-year-old surfer Laeticia Brouwer was brought in and where she died in 2017 after being hit by a White at a popular wave called Kelpies.

Cohen wants to get a haemorrhage kit at Kelpies. He says it might make the difference between life and death if someone is attacked.

“I know some guys who were in the ED that day and it was a traumatic experience to manage. Cases like the are preventable deaths. People can act on the beach if they’re there when it happens. It might be scary to talk about but it’s reassuring to know that there is something you can do and it’s not complicated.”

The paralysis common among crowds at a disaster or accident can be broken by doing something, by being focussed on a task.

“All it takes is one person to squeeze the leg in the right spot,” says Cohen. “You only die from bleeding to death. Stop the bleeding, you stop the death. It’s the same as what soldiers in Iraq do. Their buddy gets shot in the leg, they put a tourniquet above the bleeding point, and they live.”

It ain’t complicated.

“You just have to step up and act,” he says.