Listen: Exuberantly playful, wonderfully
childlike Kai Lenny is surfing’s very own Pee-wee Herman!
By Chas Smith
Heh-heh!
Pee-wee’s Big Adventure, starring Paul Reubens
as the exuberantly playful, wonderfully childlike titular
character, was one of the very best films to come out of the 1980s.
Herman, living in an amazing house with incredible toys and
inventions, enjoyed each day to the fullest, not a cloud passing
his sky until his most favorite treasure on earth – a red bike –
went missing.
Pee-wee fearlessly chased it down, meeting an eclectic cast of
characters along the way while charming each and every one of them
until a glorious “happy-ever-after” finale and does his life, his
story not mirror our own Kai Lenny’s to a tee?
Existence is a wonderful adventure for Lenny filled with toys,
laughs and friends.
Unique laughs.
Heh heh!
There are some frightful creatures too with frightful stories,
like Large Laird Hamilton, but mostly just heaping spoonfuls of fun
and a most favorite treasure on earth – a shiny foilboard.
If World Surf League CEO and Lord Commander over the Wall of
Positive Noise Erik “ELo” Logan does not see the viability in a
re-boot… Lenny’s Lucky Life let’s call it… then he’s not the
visionary he claims to be.
No?
You don’t see it?
Listen here.
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Locals get steamed up on Reunion. | Photo: La
Haine
CoronaVirus hysteria: Locals on magical
surf-rich island attack Australian tourists from cruise liner with
bottles and stones and taunt with cruel insults!
By Derek Rielly
"I fart in your general direction" etc.
Lovely Reunion Island, an Indian Ocean jewel, French, a
place that is so wonderful and so perfect that you must, at least
once in your life, take its nipple in your mouth and sob
with pleasure.
The cops told passengers they couldn’t guarantee their safety
and the ship was forced to sail to nearby Mauritius.
There have been no reported cases of Coronavirus on Réunion Island, which
has a population of around 900,000, so maybe it ain’t a bad idea to
shut the gate for a lil while.
“Of course we are not against the arrival of tourists in
Reunion, they are necessary for the development of our economy,”
protestor Yannis Latchimy told Imaz Press Réunion. “We just
want to be sure that there is no risk of the spread of the
coronavirus.”
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Watch: Rabid shark chases terrified
porpoise up rocks then feasts on its innards while famous surfer
declares, “We’re not safe on land anymore!”
By Chas Smith
We're all getting eaten. You. Me. Our children.
Their children.
Oh to be a surfer in South Africa. To be a surfer and
brave, knowing that every single wave brings with it the
very real opportunity of being feasted upon by a shark. Knowing
that your very innards might be served up at the local shark
braai where those sharks will pick and choose your most
delectable bits while smacking their lips and critiquing your
general quality. Liver no good, shot through over-drinking, for
example. Lungs crispy and charred from one too many Gunstons.
Oh to be a surfer in South Africa while the rest of South
Africa’s non-surfing population looks on, thinking, “That
bosbefok is just asking for it, eh. Asking to get eaten,
eh.”
Sharks, as you well know, love South Africa and love South
African surfers.
But in a shocking turn, South Africa’s sharks are now
encroaching upon the land and let us witness famous son Jordy Smith
terrifying Instagram post. Let us watch a shark climb sharp rocks
in order to feast on a terrified porpoise’s innards.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9Z3mtog-Pv/
The end is certainly nigh.
And/or already here.
And/or was here, like, six months ago.
Or maybe not?
If porpoises are also learning to walk I think much fun for man
as dogs are getting boring.
Do you disagree?
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Watch: Penguin and seal participate in
“consensual, beautiful, inspiring” non-binary love act!
By Chas Smith
A fine example for surfers.
Oh we humans, we Homo sapiens, are a vicious
lot getting more and more vicious by the day. Those who
self-identify as “left” refuse to speak with those who
self-identify as “right.” Vegans won’t even look at pescatarians
and say snotty things about them under their mung bean breath.
Those who think the earth is round cannot stand the sight of those
who think the earth is flat and take every opportunity to mock and
belittle.
Tribes and camps.
We’ve separated ourselves into tribes and camps and loathe every
tribe and camp not our own.
And we surfers may be worst of all. Tribes and camps within
tribes and camps. Two surfers may vote for establishment Democratic
candidates, for example, but if one rides a fish and the other
rides a plus-sized fish then they will hate each other and look for
ways to cause much harm one to the other.
Thankfully we have the animal kingdom to show us a better, more
gentle way. To learn how to treat those different from us.
Love them even.
Recently we witnessed a benevolent killer whale saving an
injured seal and a polar bear kissing a funny circus seal.
Today we have another seal but this one participating in a
consensual, beautiful, inspiring non-binary love act with a
handsome penguin.
If these two can cross species lines than shouldn’t a surfer who
rides a Hayden shaped Hypto-Krypto be able to wake up next to a
surfer who rides a Channel Island’s Neck Beard without shame?
Let us, like our animal friends, freely live, laugh and
love.
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Beware: Dr. Jen See identifies, categorizes
dangerous new breed of surfing male!
By Jen See
Introducing the Angry Midlengther.
Have you ever looked at the map of California?
I mean, really looked at it? Let’s do that together right now.
Look, there’s Point Conception. There it is, just jutting out there
like a giant cock dangling in the ocean, free and easy. The sharks
are so stoked.
Now let’s trace down the map a little farther. Oh, look, there’s
Santa Barbara. There’s the 101 and Rincon and that one taqueria,
which is totally better than the other taqueria. What a lovely,
gently curving stretch of coastline, it is, right there behind
Point Conception.
The taint. That’s what it is. If Point Conception is a giant
cock, that pretty much makes Santa Barbara the taint.
I am now changing my name and buying a new face on the internet
— you can do that, right? — before a crowd of angry villagers shows
up to run me out of town. But surely you understand. Once you see
it, you really can’t unsee it. There it is. The giant cock. And the
taint.
I’m pretty sure this arrangement is exactly why the waves have
not made it here very often this winter. There’s a giant cock in
the way. We have felt so many emotions — despair, resignation,
anger, bike rides — during this winter that wasn’t really much of a
winter at all. I’m not sure what to call a winter that ended in
February.
Will it ever rain again? Will I run out of Clif Bars before the
world ends? Answers, I don’t have any.
Still, I have persisted. Even without any hope of good waves, I
went surfing. I went surfing for you, because there is important
research to do out there. New anthropological phenomena and other
things I can’t remember right now, I had to go find them. I know
how much you depend on me! I could not bear to let you down.
So, I dragged some small-wave boards out of the pile and dug out
the magnifying glass I keep around for making small things look
bigger, and headed to the beach. Optimistic! I am always
optimistic. If I did not find good waves, perhaps I would discover
some new discoveries. Important ones, even.
There I was, sitting in the lineup, looking for waves, doing
important science, whatever. Suddenly I saw it! A whole new
species. My lucky day had arrived!
Suddenly, the bad waves, the magnifying glass, the small-wave
boards, it was all worth it.
After much careful study and reflection, I have named this new
species the ANML. The ANML is a close relative to Surfline Man,
which we have previously discussed at some length. But worse, so
much worse. After all, Surfline Man’s migratory patterns are
predictable and with only a smidgeon of planning, a smart surfer
can often avoid him.
But the ANML, well, you never really know when you’re going to
see one. You’re out there on a clean, knee-high day, super chill,
just a couple friends, and BAM, there he is. The Angry Midlengther.
Mood, totally killed. (So far, no female ANML’s have been spotted
in the wild.)
The ANML can surf, yes. But he is notable for his very
distinctive approach. He goes straight. Then he goes straight
again. Does the ANML know how to turn? If so, I have never yet seen
it. The ANML believes he has surfing solved. His midlength will
rule it all, and anyone who does not have a board exactly like his,
just doesn’t know what’s up. He has an ego, the ANML and he doesn’t
care who knows it.
Occasionally, an ANML will claim that he is riding his crowd
control board today. Usually, he rides a shortboard, he’ll say,
while gesturing about the lineup, as though to say, but then all of
you people showed up. Bro, that’s not your crowd control board,
you’re just an asshole.
Also, shortboarders ride shortboards. Almost entirely. We are
masochists that way. If we wanted surfing to be easier, we would
chuck it all and move to Seattle.
The ANML has no compunction about burning hapless bystanders. I
have experienced this trait often. No look, no apologies, just go,
man. That wave, you deserve it! The lineup, and every wave in it,
belongs to you and your awesome surfing. You go, ANML!
The ANML never believes he is getting enough waves. He has never
once gotten his fair share. So after each one? He’ll paddle
straight by the rest of the lineup. Right to the front of the line.
Next wave? The ANML has it. Oh, he’s got it. And the next one after
that one, too.
I’ll say this for the ANML, he can paddle. He can paddle when he
wants to, that is. And usually, he wants to. Slap, slap, slap,
gotta hurry, gotta get another wave.
Once in a while, usually when some sad, beleaguered, almost
totally cowed shortboarder is surfing down the line, the ANML will
casually paddle through the pocket, pausing just long enough to
ensure that the shortboarder is fucked completely. Thanks,
ANML!
The ANML believes in resin tints. He doesn’t believe in leashes.
He’s heard of a cutback, but isn’t sure why he should bother to do
one. Instead, he stands there in the middle of his board, points it
straight down the line, and occasionally moves his arms around. He
believes the arm-waving imparts style to his surfing. He is
wrong.
There is no defense against the ANML. If you see one, approach
with extreme caution, if you must approach at all. I recommend
fleeing. It’s not brave and it’s not bold and it’s certainly not
manly, but it will save you hours of hate. And hate is so very
depressive.
The ANMLs are running wild! I’m headed straight back to the
lineup out to learn more, because science is a very important thing
to do. I am a trained professional in such things with a diploma on
the wall and everything. In the meantime, be safe out there! If you
see an ANML, run!
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros