Sixty one year old says, “I don’t know if it’s having a screw loose or what…”
A wild and relentless south swell, scratching fifteen-feet at usually dormant outer reefs, has lit up Australia’s east coast.
And, surf writer Nick Carroll, who is sixty-one, and “an expert in virtually every surfing-related subject, but returning often to board design, contest reportage, profiles, and wave-related meteorology” according to Warshaw’s Encyclopedia of Surfing, has been thrilling spectators at his favourite Sydney big-wave haunts.
(Read Nick’s thrilling account of paddling thirty-two miles between Molokai and Oahu in the “crazy, fucking ultra-marathon” here.)
As The Sydney Morning Herald reports,
Spending close to 20 violent seconds being contorted underwater by a monster wave can be enjoyable if you want it to be.
At least that’s what Sydney surfer Nick Carroll thinks.
Nick and his brother, former world champion surfer Tom, were among a select few who braved the five metre swell on Saturday as it lashed the NSW coastline.
The brothers spent Saturday morning paddling into some of the biggest, cleanest surf to land on Sydney’s coastline in years.
“I don’t know if it’s having a screw loose or what, but I kind of enjoy those moments,” Nick said shortly after returning to shore near Long Reef on Sydney’s northern beaches. “I don’t feel afraid at all, I just kind of lie down there and enjoy it. It’s only water.”
Tom, who since winning surfing world titles in the 1980s has made a name for himself as a big wave surfer, said he was excited to see his hometown light up.
“I love it, I love it when it gets like this. It’s just been such a big part of my life when these storms come in,” he said. “It all feels safe, then bingo, it all comes in.”
Did you see?
Were you there?
And, big waves, do you like to lie down and enjoy it, too?
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Bummer for Nick. It looks like no Molokai 2 Oahu this year. All channel crossing comps canceled for 2020. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
I dislike most people in general, especially in the surf world, but I’ve always liked Nick. He prob won’t remember it, but we were on a panel once at the SD Boardroom thing, and I was quite pleased to see that he was barefoot, not only during the panel, but all day walking around the convention center.
Even though thousands (if not millions) of readers have given him stick over the last 40odd years of surf writing, and called him all sorts of names like Nickle Arse Carrot, Stumpy Caveman and Poostance Neandarthal (not myself mind you, just the other aforementioned thousands (if not millions)), I actually consider him to be the best surfer/journalist as well as the best journalist/surfer that’s ever been called rudely unfair and unfairly rude names by the generally ignorant general surfing populace…
lol that’s the most Australian thing I think I’ve ever read, thanks Beef n Beer
Hahaha
Though the thing is I’m a Kiwi who hasn’t been to Aussie since early ’90’s but only drinks VB when in NZ (local beers elsewhere haha)…
only ad copy writer in history that was in the mix of the tour as well. street cred of the highest order.
we need a gallery of that swell to drop.
Stumpy Caveman
I lie down there at 3 feet deep for 10 seconds and I shit myself but that’s cool
phrasing
Good to read Nick is excited and ready for the prospective BG White Party at the opening of Kane Wave Emporium.
I think Nick would be a hit with at least once section of the crowd.
It sucks when you just know it’s a good inside joke and I don’t have a clue. Just know it.
No secrets here. Hairy man with particularly well-formed pectoral girdle and ringed by hall of fame adonis belt enters party. Heads turn.
haha you calling Nick a bear DR?
Ron Jeremy?
Stop it!