"The ocean, always a place of transformative powers with the ability to wash away sadness and depression, now feels foreboding and dark."
I’m lost.
I’ve got two weeks off in the middle of prime surf time on the NSW North Coast: offshore winds, pulsing southerly swells, nominally smaller crowds.
This should be peak surf pig time.
Up early, twice or thrice daily surfs, road trips.
This is accentuated by the fact I’ve now got two surf stoked teens, both on winter school vacay, in tow. Daughter and son both surf bug-bitten.
You remember what it’s like to be a grom. You’ll surf anything, anywhere, anytime.
So week one of the holidays, we had been doing a whole heap of surfing.
Now, this binge of surf piggery has been brought to a shuddering halt by the death of 15-year-old Mani Hart-Deville in a shark attack in a neighboring surf community.
The other end of the stretch of national park that I usually surf.
A student at the school I used to teach at.
Too close to home.
I got the full rundown of the whole harrowing event from a first responder. The scariest, most traumatic shit you can imagine. Made all too real by the similarity in age to my own sprogs and the recounted experience of what the young man’s parents had to endure.
From full throttle to flatlining in the space of a day.
The ocean, always a place of transformative powers with the ability to wash away sadness, anger, frustration, depression and tension with nothing more than a quick dip, now feels foreboding and dark.
I’ve already modified my own surf behaviour, due to the spate of attacks to the north of me in the Ballina/Byron area in years previous. I was on a surf alone at sunrise, out of the water before 7.30 am rotation when that shit all went down. No longer.
When I was a kid, there seemed to be concrete rules for avoiding becoming prey for something built for ocean predation: don’t surf at sunrise or sunset, don’t surf alone, don’t surf in murky water, avoid deep water, avoid reefs and rivermouths.
Now all the old paradigms are out the window.
The weekend attack happened at two pm on a sunny winter’s day. Small beachbreak peaks not fifty metres off the shore.
The same with the majority of the Ballina “cluster” attacks in years previous.
Middle of the day, sunny, fun swells, very inviting.
I’m flummoxed as to how to modify my behaviour any more to avoid an attack. When I say my behaviour, I’m thinking primarily of how I’m going to manage my kids.
If I get hit, I get hit.
I don’t know how I could face the idea of knowing that I put my kids in harm’s way through my example and guidance. A parent’s primary responsibility is to teach and nurture.
To dispense advice and information to help their offspring navigate situations safely.
But how do you protect your kids and yourself from attack, when the evidence is stacking up that it could happen at any time, in any conditions?
While I know it has probably always been this way, it just feels that the dial on the likelihood of a shark interaction here on the North Coast has moved from implausible to distinctly possible.
Two days after the attack I’m at a loss with what to do.
Normally I’d get up, we’d pack the car and go find a wave. Now I don’t want to. Well, I do want to, but I’m hesitant to.
This is the rhythm and rhyme of my life, but now it’s out of sync.
I lag.
I do the washing, tidy the house.
But.
It’s sunny, it’s offshore, a classic winters day. So we pack the car with boards, wetsuits, and towels. Just in case.
We arrive to be greeted with groomed little two-foot peaks under a light offshore. God, it looks tempting.
I bump into an old local. He’s a member of the bite club. Took a hit from a bull shark at the local back beach after a flood, surfing in murky water in 2001. Used a leg rope to tourniquet his thigh, climbed the headland, drove himself fifteen minutes to the local hospital and passed out laying into the horn as he rolled into the emergency bay.
The kids look, wait for me to give them the cue.
Are we going out?
Nope.
Not today.
We walk the beach, climb the headland, continually scan the waves, kick a football on the beach, try to resist temptation.
I bump into an old local, now in his late sixties, still as surf stoked as ever. The number of days he has left to surf are winding down he knows, got to get as many go-outs in as he can before he can’t go out no more.
He’s a member of the bite club. Took a hit from a bull shark at the local back beach after a flood, surfing in murky water in 2001. Used a leg rope to tourniquet his thigh, climbed the headland, drove himself fifteen minutes to the local hospital and passed out laying into the horn as he rolled into the emergency bay.
“You’ll be right to go out” I joke. “What are the odds of getting hit twice?”
“Not today,” he says. “Best to leave it for a bit.”
The rational part of both of us knows that the chances of anyone getting hit today are the same as any other day. But it just doesn’t feel right. It just doesn’t feel responsible for me to allow my kids into that environment, barely twenty-five kilometres and under forty-eight hours from where a kid basically the same age died a traumatic death simply enjoying what my kids want to enjoy right now.
I know all the arguments.
I’ve subscribed and parroted them myself. You’ve got more chance of dying on the way to the beach, you enter their environment at your own risk, a life lived in fear is a life half lived. But today I look at the ocean, and I look at my son and daughter and I just can’t bring myself to allow them to enter the water. Not today.
I know it can’t last.
The lure of surf is now as much a part of their lives as it is mine.
And a small part of me now curses that.
Curses the fact that my kids are now infatuated and enamored with this lifestyle and environmental interaction we call surfing.
Mani Hart-Deville, there for the grace of God go I, could have been my son or daughter in the great game of chance that now seems to be the act of surfing on the NSW North Coast.
One day soon, we’ll go surfing again.
We’ll be wary at first, tentative and skittish.
And if we’re lucky, with time things will again begin to feel, well, normal.
The ocean will hopefully become a place again of feeling joy and exhilaration, rather than of trepidation.
I want my kids to still love surfing, to still feel alive in the ocean.
But I don’t want to lose my kids in the ocean, don’t want to see them pulled clinging to life from the sea.
If there were an increasing number of pedophiles on the streets, sniffing around playgrounds, looking at children, giving kids a bump every now and then with the dick, sometimes attacking them so violently that they bleed out and die. Would we be saying we all need to live together, pedophiles do what they do, they have a right too, If you don’t like it then keep your kids at home and away from the Catholic Church? Any decent man would chase the cunt down and kill the pedo given the chance.
if it is a problem for you, then dont get in the water. its pretty simple.
Heavy blackout situation.
And that’s exactly how I feel about the bike. I realised that things were guaranteed to go bad at some point and I was starting to wake up at night stressing about it.
Thanks dan, it’s something I and many friends have been grappling with since the last cluster of deaths in WA.
Living in Reunion, we can understand everything you’re saying and we know that feeling of not really wanting to enjoy the ocean in the immediate aftermath of each attack. Keep surfing, don’t let the negativity get to you but for sure it’s all the more difficult if you have kids.
Tldr solution: surf elsewhere, take your chances when/where you surf, or quit surfing. Did I miss something?
Every time I hit the water at 9pm in France I think to myself just how good it feels good to surf into dark without worrying about some beast taking a leg off me.
Faaark caaarnt, your today’s hero, I’d love to be able to night surf (in WA)
Not night surfing in Summer. Same in BC. Light til 10:15 right now.
I went through a thought exercise last year while I was sitting out alone. I imagined in detail the bite, the panic, the adrenaline, the paddle in, the crawling up the rocks with nobody around to find me. It was all quite gory and brutal. And then I thought that life generally is gory and brutal, and that death wouldn’t be out of place. Fitting, even. And I sat there with a choice – keep surfing with the risk, or stop completely and remove the risk.
So am I ok with dying by shark bite? 100% yes. I’ve made the choice. I make sure I keep my life insurance paid up so my family won’t be fucked. And now I’m packing a tourniquet, which feels as obvious as wearing a seat belt in the car. (And yes, it’s fucken sharky where I live and surf).
But ja, I’m fortunate that my son is much more interested in his Xbox than the sea. So I don’t have that dynamic to agonise about.
I’m far more worried drowning than sharks. I’ve been rocking a helmet whenever I’ve been alone for over a year now, regardless of the size, to reduce the chance of a surfads knockout situation.
You’re seriously more worried about drowning than being eaten alive and bleeding out?
Ja, statistically it just looks like a much more likely outcome. When I think back to long hold downs, sketchy moments around rocks, brushes with the reef etc it feels like a miracle I haven’t drowned already. Half the time I’m out alone so there’s nobody to pull my head above water. Two years ago I my board just about ripped my nose off my face after I kicked out of a shoulder-high close-out, just like I’d done countless times for 20 years. Freak accidents can and will happen.
I recently made the opposite choice about motorbikes. I woke up one morning and decided that’s not the way I want to get killed/maimed, so I put my bike up for sale and won’t sit on two motorised wheels again.
What part of the world are you surfing?
A South African part. When tourism was still a thing I could climb a tree in my garden and watch the cage diving boats come and go.
Welcome to Mosselbaai!
Well ja that’s a possible location that fits my description. If you see a lone surfer with a helmet and an offensive poo-squat stance, bogging mistimed turns and dodging heavy sections, then you’ve found me.
You made me laugh! Thanks and be safe.
Wow. Yep you have made peace. Still freak you out when you’re alone and hear a loud ripple near you?
There’s always a seal splashing around and usually some kelp brushing against the legs so I’ve become desensitised to sudden movements.
Damn. Wonder what your brain waves are doing during those moments, to have pacified them. Guess you’re used to the stimulus. I used to surf up in Northern California/Southern Oregon area which has great whites and it was always in the back of my mind. But I think there’s even more action where you are–esp since you see boats going out looking for them.
Living with serious disabilities and pain for a should be a part of that mental exercise.
Ja I factored in the disability (that would be shit, but manageable, and if it stops me from earning a living I’m covered for that).
But I hadn’t factored in the pain. I don’t know how well I’d cope with that kind of physical pain over the rest of my life if a bite left me with complications. I’ve read your past comments about the after effects of your bite. Huge respect for having to deal with that every day, and not becoming a bitter twisted grump like LGR!
Wiggs isn’t empty. He anchors this place. Respect the lineup, Eugene.
Mate, that’s not what Eugene said.
Eug don’t need no etiquette training.
Maybe some toilet training – yep, fair enough, coz he’s from WA and they’re inclined to be a bit feral over there.
Astro–I know what Eugene was saying. I got mixed up looking at the microphone in his avatar a bit too much is all.
I’ve surfed with a Surfshield hanging from my boards since 2011 when a big tiger shark spooked me at Lennox..It saved me in 2015 at Ballina during the spike in attacks that year..A monster great white possibly the one that killed Nadashi 3 days earlier 500 mtrs away.Last about 6 hours on a battery recharge..Research it.Military divers world wide use them Abalone divers use them..Best $700 I ever spent
What’s your kickback for posting this?
He lost me at “research it”.
Remember when that Navy diver got his arm and leg eaten off by a bully in Sydney Harbour!
Last time I went to their website it stated that the shark shield was not suitable for boards under 5.10 and not suitable for kids under 12. So sure I’ll be ‘protected’ but my kids have to sit on the beach or…
It’s because it’s basically a electric fence you hang into the
salt water next to you. Zero chance of not getting shocked during a sesh.
Chas and Derek–I see you’re going all in on the sharks hook, line, and sinker.
Ja I hope Chas is feeling like a twit now comparing these recent shark articles to all his clickbait shit. But more likely he’ll just double down and increase his output.
It’s simple really: just quit.
There’s tonnes of better stuff to do.
Like being a good Husband and Father? Yawn.
Good article Dan.
Until you have to make these choices yourself your opinion means f@#k all.
If Aus started fishing for Juvie shark again in responsible quantities then there wouldn’t be the need to import that god awful
farmed basa from Thailand or wherever they grow it. Christ that shits an abomination.
Fun fact – did you know that around 60% of seafood consumed around the world is from fish farms ?
I’m guilty of buying the shit from China – prawns and squid mainly …. fucken sad. NZ surrounded by squid and octopus but not offered fresh consistently. Fuckall quota so comms don’t target them. Dumb, ay ?
that is changing though, there is a lot of angst in Europes, the US and other govs over Chinas unfair trade practices. I think they are trying to put the genie back in the bottle, but we will see. I hope Biden continues the pressure, but I dont’ see it..
In regards to Longtoms piece yesterday, the tipping point is the moment you’re spawn take up this thing. Great writing.
Heart penetrating writing. Thanks. NonJohn loves sharks, is scared of sharks, and is happy that they exist as part of our binding miracle that is the circle of life on Earth. NonJohn wants only bad people to be bitten by sharks, but alas, it cannot be.
don’t surf at sunrise or sunset, don’t surf alone, don’t surf in murky water, avoid deep water, avoid reefs and rivermouths.”
Is that all?
I have weird rules too, but not because I’m gonna get eaten (knock on wood).
Why doesn’t everyone go fishing?
I hear ya brother. When you have children it all changes.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
Wave pools are indeed the future.
Let’s move humanity inland, we don’t deserve the Coast.
Fvck your sh*t pools
Fuck you then Nonny John, you’re not invited to the party.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
A fine group of Scientologists having fun.
#bringbackbex
He’s here, with internet addiction there’s a long period of lurking to see if people still mention you and the fact that it’s been such a big part of your life that you just cant help but refresh your browser every 10 minutes, waiting for something, anything to give you that hollow dopamine hit.
Yep. Guaranteed he’s reading all these. Takes a few months to break the addiction.
Did he ban himself – what i miss?
Oh, that’s gold … I hope you’re reading this mate
Do you recognise these behaviors in yourself Negs?
I know I do (myself I mean)
Hell yes! Long before disqus on one dead forum I couldn’t walk past my computer without leaving a snarky comment.
Kelly approves.