"A white dude getting credit for a thing that
already exists…"
The world sure do love a bitchy critic.
Personal favs, AA Gill and Rex Reed, the former doing over
restaurants, the latter, film.
Describing the shrimp-and-foie-gras dumplings at a very well
regarded NY restaurant, Gill wrote, “What if we called them fishy
liver-filled condoms? They were properly vile, with a savor that
lingered like a lovelorn drunk and tasted as if your mouth had been
used as the swab bin in an animal hospital.”
The New York Times’ Culture and Styles reporter and
Menswear critic Guy Trebay, is cut from a similar if cheaper cloth.
Anna Wintour’s face is “vulpine”; describing Lady Gaga’ style, she
has barged “right past imitation to outright larceny.”
And so on.
One man who didn’t feel Trebay’s claws in a recent review of his
clothing label Stan (jackets $1500
etc) is the surfer and model Tristan
Detwiler.
In the story, Men’s Wear Is on a
Quilt Trip, Trebay describes Detwiler
as “a handsome
surfer with apostle’s locks, a silver thumb ring and a palm tree
tattoo on his hand” and Detwiler’s hand-made clothes, fashioned
from old quilts, as something reminiscent of the great designers,
Raf Simons, Ralph Lauren, Junya Watanabe etc.
A glowing endorsement while skewering other new designers.
“(Stan) was a standout in a day of disappointing designer
efforts: stuff like the skirts, skorts and knit tunics from Chelsea
Grays, garments so laborious tattered they looked like the
aftermath of a moth banquet; or Carter Altman’s Carter Young men’s
wear staples organized around some sadly hoary signifiers of a
nostalgia-steeped New York; or Aaron Potts’s APotts collection of
clothes so intentionally without reference to secondary sexual
characteristics they made you itch for a Cardi B video; or ONYRMRK,
a new Los Angeles label designed by Mark Kim and Rwang Pam, whose
layered plaid puffer parkas (try it three times fast) underscored
fashion’s growing westward drift.”
Detwiler self-describes as “an artist and storyteller. That’s
what I believe in. Fashion is the easiest way to tell my
story.”
Now, social media has hit back with accusations of sexism and
white male privilege.
Writes @dietprada, two-and-a-half million followers,
In December, NYT reported that sewing was “back” because men
were publicly participating, calling it a “long-neglected home
art”, though home sewing’s popularity has on the rise for years,
mostly led by women. Why does it take men, especially “handsome”
ones with “apostle’s locks”, to validate it?
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Stan is hardly the first line to make clothing from discarded
quilts. In fact, the overall look begs comparison to the
female-founded label @bode, launched by Emily Adams Bode in 2016.
Her early one-offs caught the industry’s attention for their
unusual level of refinement so often lacking in upcycled clothes.
She also presented a new level of cohesion and narrative, building
a world with pieces picked from the flea markets and even linen
closets of her own childhood. ⠀
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLfLWIYFto2/
Even the Times’ own readers took issue with the piece.
“Something feels amiss in this article, with the unnecessary
disparaging comments on other young & new designers (many of named
being a combination of woman & poc) in order to positively
highlight another designer… who is noted in the article to not be
doing anything of particular uniqueness… and who happens to be a
white male of generic attractiveness… The writer mentions Emily
Bode’s designs with admiration, but anything short of those praises
would be insulting as Detwiler’s designs share more than a passing
similarity to Bode’s who is also a new designer with a couple extra
years under her belt. The doppelgänger effect between the two’s
work is so striking it makes me wonder why this even article
exists. Why praise him, and through what lens is the writer looking
through that makes him do prepared to tear down those other
designers to support this nonsense?”
The takeaway here is two-fold, I’d suggest:
One, being a ravishing surfer with a apostle locks gets you a
long way in the fashion world and, two, is there not an endeavour,
an art, that hasn’t been gang-raped, mercilessly violated, by white
male privilege?