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World’s most lovable surfer Jonah Hill raises banner for body positivity, strikes back at brutalist tabloid: “This is for the kids who don’t take their shirts off at the pool. You’re wonderful and awesome and perfect!”

Putting the V in VAL.

The just passed weekend found me, my best friends and our children (aged 4 – 7) smashing pickup trucks over boulders, camping near abandoned mines, skipping along a dried lakebed where the rocks move by magic in California’s Death Valley.

Very off the grid and I was loving every second. The children happy and filthy, danger lurking around every hairpin mule track turn, the nearest cell signal miles upon miles away.

I thought, “If only we could stay out of range forever…” while driving back home, phone registering “no service”… until the town of Ridgeway where its shattered screen fired to life, messages stacked upon stacked, buzzing furiously.

A sense of dread overcame me.

Through squinted eyes, I thought I made out the name “Jonah Hill” involved, or adjacent, to one.

I clicked and read the headline attached, “Jonah Hill slips into his black wetsuit for surf day in Malibu… before showing off his tattoos while going shirtless to towel off,” an informative, albeit slightly wordy, offering showing exactly what was professed.

Scanning further, I discovered that Hill had responded to the story, via Instagram, and slowly read his caption.

I don’t think I ever took my shirt off in a pool until I was in my mid 30s even in front of family and friends. Probably would have happened sooner if my childhood insecurities weren’t exacerbated by years of public mockery about my body by press and interviewers. So the idea that the media tries to play me by stalking me while surfing and printing photos like this and it can’t phase me anymore is dope. I’m 37 and finally love and accept myself. This isn’t a “good for me” post. And it’s definitely not a “feel bad for me post”. It’s for the the kids who don’t take their shirt off at the pool. Have fun. You’re wonderful and awesome and perfect. All my love.

Instantly I knew that surfing’s power of balance had fundamentally shifted.

Hill has been the face of surfing’s recent meteoric spike in popularity but has seemingly been reluctant to be its voice… until this just passed weekend. His message of inclusivity, of positivity, of empowerment sent shockwaves through the media landscape with celebrity after celebrity praising, average Joes and Janes sharing their own stories.

Surfing as vehicle for dialogue.

As vehicle for change.

An entirely beautiful moment that I missed thanks to dumb nature.

A sentiment so pure not even the grumpiest local can begrudge.

The VAL apocalypse transforming into a VAL utopia.

Note: I know that brutalist is a sort of architecture that does not reflect the Daily Mail’s overall aesthetic, which leans toward gothic, but “gothic tabloid” just don’t have the same ring.

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East of the 5

Super Bad is a top 10 all-time comedy. It holds up even now. Burn one down and watch it. Tell me you don’t pee your pants laughing….

Ro

Dude this is the perfect example of what is wrong with surfing. The fact that it has become some Mainstream and out of touch with real life surfers. I mean, take a look at this shit… We are praising Jonah Hill for body positivity. How the fuck is this related to surfing at all? Good for Jonah but this just feels wrong in so many ways.

Occ Topus

At first glance, that d00d looks like Italo. I was thinking, he’s really packed on those covid pounds.

AI (for ever) .

When ever I see a skinny surfer on a wave I just want to drop in and squash them

Beef & Beer

Wow
They are some lame as fuck tattoos.
And being chubby makes them look even worse.
Kooooook…

Chas Smith

You are exactly right. Ridgecrest. Neil always on my mind.

Dick Simmons

Did you bring a Geiger counter?

channelbottom

I feel I pretty much need his affirmation myself these days. But as a 50 yo, I have the forcefield of being too old for anyone who’d judge me on carrying an extra 10 kilos of experience round my chassis.

nyc surfing golden boy

guy needs to hit the gym and quit being a sensitive bitch

Phat-wan kerr

while going shirtless to towel himself off. is there another way?

Lemon Next to the Pie

Just be glad he wasn’t using the DR method of carpark drying off.

Chazz Michael Michaels

For fuck sake, Chas. No-one gives a shit about Jonah Hill or his fucking insta val-life.

What shoes were you wearing in the desert?

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins

Negs–how comes Chazz doesn’t have an “Oldest Grumpiest Local” next to his monkier, too?

NEGATRON

He’d just ban very second person for annoying him if he was a Mod.

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins

Oh–didn’t know that was a title that only mods get. So you’re also saying Chazz gets PMS?

Beef & Beer

Cos chadz doesn’t actually qualify as either old, grumpy, or local.
More like middle aged, lame, interloper…

Chazz Michael Michaels

Better than just being an old cunt that offers nothing.

Beef & Beer

You shouldn’t talk about yourself like that though.
Surely there’s some mars bars to deep-fry…

Chas Smith

I went simple! Nike Kill Shots, white that became very dusty brown, with red swooshes!

Chazz Michael Michaels

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t disappointed they weren’t something far less practical.

janeausten

I preferred the work of his cousin Benny… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

JohnsKnees

When will we get to see Jonah Hill surfing his Teen Choice award? https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

c4

Memories of PostSurf.

mike m

“YOU’RE WONDERFUL AND AWESOME AND PERFECT!”

Maybe not telling chubby kids that, would result in fewer chubby kids.
Dunno.

Mads Naeraa

Who is Jonah Hill? No snideness – I just don’t know.

And Chas, your desert adventure sounds wonderful!

Chas Smith

It was something else… and he is a very funny actor!

SectionSB

I used to do some serious rockhounding out there. Many colors! Pack the truck full and then scatter them in the gardens. Great for star gazing too.

Glitchy

Until this writeup I figured he was a lower-tier CT surfer or something! Ever educational, this Beachgrit.

ValiantScorn

See Brutus, you’re not alone……

Karl Von Fanningstadt

Inspiring!*
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
*LATE-WARNING: Terrible image to follow.

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins

My wife told me to stop taking my shirt off in the bedroom about 15 years ago. As you can imagine, I have not shared that development on a social media post. And are we sure that’s not Goggans with dyed hair?

Wiggolly's Paddling Style

Maybe Shitalo Ferrero Rocher?

astro

Yep. Nothing says, “Adventure and Danger” like a tricked out 4×4, Chas !

Chas Smith

We were running basically stock Tacomas down lippincott mine road. Oooeee!

MyGFsChinese

It was waist deep blower pow all weekend here in the Wasatch. COVID = best thing ever, it got me the fuck out of California…

Chas Smith

Oh bless you! How much fun did you have?

Firelipe Torpedo

Vajonah hill

John Smith

If the paps can make Hugh Jackman look out of shape, maybe Jonah is much more svelte than we all know.

@surfads

No that was Hugh Jassman

Pauly Matt War-Shore

It was Huge Ackman.

Steven Rees

Isn’t the real story that we’ve been seeing these photos of Hill for like three years and he still can barely get to his feet on some giant board in baby waves? And…he says he used to skate, too? THAT’S why he might have cause for embarrassment.

channelbottom

Until we ‘get some clips’, then we’ll never know what the true state of his abilities are.
To be honest, I don’t think he gives a shit what we think of him.

Steven Rees

You’re probably right. He probably hates having his pic taken every time he goes out. Crap, I have to force my wife to film me from the beach. At least he’s rich!

channelbottom

For all we know he could have an obscure slice of prime reef in the South Pacific absolutely wired.

drew peacock

I said to a local guy taking surf photos of tourists surfing in bali,”why don’t you take film of people?”
He replied:”no one wants to buy footage of themselves surfing,they realise they’re kooks!”


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