A "nightmare scenario"…
You want to know what it’s like to wear a fifteen-foot set on the head out at Margaret River’s main break, five thousand nautical miles from any sorta land mass that might temper the big south-west swells?
The pro surfer turned real estate agent Mitch Thorson, ranked #16 in the mid-eighties and noted for his jams in big waves, knows.
Last Thursday, he and a few pals were surfing late-arvo Margs, eight-to-twelve feet. Ain’t no soft-tops or fishes out here. Raw deep-water swell.
Mitch had scratched over a twelve-footer and when the spray cleared he saw it, a top-to-bottom fifteen, maybe eighteen-footer.
His first thought? I’m fifty-six years old, I’ve surfed twenty-five footers at Waimea and the outer reefs, sure, but back then I was twenty eight and healthy.
“It’s a bit different when you’re a chubby real estate agent wallowing around at Margarets,” he says.
But he’d been doing a bit of underwater rock running in the lagoon at the Box, he knew it was a fifteen-second period swell and figured he had ten seconds “to get my shit together.”
He took his three deep breaths and got “absolutely smashed, absolutely rag-dolled by this thing that looked like Waimea but the other way around”. His old twelve-foot Creatures leash held, as it would for the following four fifteen-to-eighteen footers.
“Pretty stoked it happened, it was an awesome experience,” says Mitch. “I haven’t been clobbered like that for fifteen years.”
Mitch says the surf report was for six-to-eight feet.
Therefore, he says, he won’t be real surprised if the predicted eight-to-ten-foot swell for the opening day of the Margaret River Pro on Sunday, May 3, turns into something that will infuse even the boldest tour professional’s stomach with piles of sick.
He says it ain’t unusual for swells to piggyback each other, turning a supposed three feet into ten as it did a couple of weeks back.
“That’s what’s happening around here,” he says. “There’s the forecast and then there’s what you’re looking at.”
Couple the report, which you can read here, with one of the most active salmon runs in years, reports of a tagged fifteen-foot White hitting one receiver at Meelup on the other side of Cape Naturaliste fifty times, as well as untagged animals “poking there heads up here and there” and, well, who ain’t licking their stank fingers in anticipation.
The headline includes the threat of Sharks & Spectre. Sounds like a job for the folks at M16. Bring in Daniel Craig to run security, safety and shark patrol. Problem solved!
Well duh magpies aren’t magpies either.
Can you imagine the bag of new Turpelisms we’re about to hear if this swell truly comes to fruition?…
That should sort out the men from the equal remunerationists
I was surfing out there last week and the water was bubbling with fish. Have never experienced that before – it was like the ocean was boiling.
Will be an interesting comp…
Yep, same … very strong fishy smell and lots of sea life. More stories of shark encounters than ever … by a long way
Fuck yeah gonna be there Sunday who wants something autographed by Joey or Pottz?
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The original title for Moveable Feast was “Fuck Ford Madox Ford and Scott Fitzgerald too” but Hotchner changed it to that drivel after my shotgun incident.
I do love to dish.
I remember going surfing at solid main break as a grommet and before hand thinking the wave is a fat burger. Owee was I wrong.
Had my ass handed to me out there.
Same grom story, solid main break, “Okay, big fat lefts – no worries!” Got drilled – it’s honestly one of the few times I thought I was going to drown.
And Snapper aren’t Snapper. And Murray Cod aren’t Cod. And Coral Trout aren’t Trout. And Mangrove Jacks aren’t Jacks.
Common names of fish do not tell us much about their taxonomy, and if you think the whole 360/540 debate in surfing is ridiculous, then try getting in to a debate with a fisherman about what different fish should be called.
Xie Xie.
Do you love Summer Crossing, Truman Capote? Some days I feel so Grady McNeil; others so Peter Bell.
Stank on ya
Owen will go! https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Ninety-seven foot wave according to Surfline!
Yep! – All I can suggest is the good folk at Surfline must be very, very diminutive!
Hello Marcus Sanders!
2pm Sunday is going to be v v big.
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Yeah Harry, sure looks it. Hope they charge massive Main Break, and go left too! Wonder if there are proper guns packed in all quivers? Box could be awesome on Monday, then the women’s at Main Break on Tuesday, and perhaps the comp all done on Wednesday if wind still okay. Either way, really looking forward to viewing all of it. Then Wadjemup, wow!
It’s a Bomba!
not sure, had a look around, they would have been many different names according to which language grouping/tribe/nation.
common fish found in middens, so definitely eaten and named.
A couple of months ago the junior state round was run in similar size surf so if any of the pros need some tips they should contact the junior finalists, they killed it!
Yeah same
I tie my own flys for them too, basically just tinsel tied on with heavy white cotton, though I’ve also caught them on a bit of tinfoil wrapped around a hook and also bits of white t-shirt tied to the hook shank.
Great fishing fun
arripis truttaceous (west Australian salmon) slightly different to Arripis trutta (east Australian salmon) same species as Kahawai.
sounds like an olympic team
Very close cousins in the aquatic world to any arripis trutta.
In the north of NZ we get an ocean going variety we call the Kermadec that’s range is (obviously as the name suggests) from the top of NZ to the isolated Kermadec islands, about 1000km (600miles) away, that have been officially caught up to 8.74kg (19lbs 4oz) and no doubt bigger.
Aotearoa
Sounds chinese
Thatll work
All keep seeing is areola, areola.
I always think of that split enz song about the boat that leaks
Yes surely Australia’s original inhabitants had a name for them seeing as they’re extremely common, and easy to hook from the shore.
Kahawai
Kaha = power
Wai = water
Pound for pound the best fighting pelagic fish in the southern oceans that put on great aerial displays when hooked.
you’ve obviously never hooked a Longtail tuna or Giant trevally then.
piss all over a kahawai.
How many little 2-4lb longtail tuna or giant trevally have you caught and had put on impressive aerial displays to be able to make comparisons on a ‘Pound For Pound’ basis though ?
I’ve only caught one GT and it was in Fiji many moons ago that was large and a very hard fighter.
Presumably the descriptions long and giant mean they aren’t exactly tiddlers like the majority of kahawai these days since overfishing of them by trawlers for the catfood market.
P.S.
Maybe I could’ve said easily accessible oceans in NZ waters.
Though on a pound for pound small fish comparison it’d be interesting to see how a baby south aussie based tuna stacks up against a fully grown kahawai of similar weight.
we get a lot of juvenile GT’s here.
2-6kg.
they pull like freight trains.
Anyhow, didn’t want to get in a pissing match over fish cuz.
All the Kahawai I’ve caught have been pretty damn docile. And I’m no ace.