Watch: Jamie O’Brien, Garrett McNamara
openly weep as first-ever recorded mega-tsunami crashes into
Greenland unridden!
By Chas Smith
Missed opportunity.
Wade Gravy, Dylan Graves, Garrett McNamara, Jamie O’Brien and
their legions of fans are in mourning, today, as it has been
revealed that the first-ever recorded mega-tsunami has gone
unridden.
The once-in-multiple-lifetimes event occurred on the west coast
of Greenland after a giant landslide some 30km away caused a wall
of water measuring over 100 m, at certain times during its journey,
crashed into the rocky shoreline, gulping down fisherman and the
filmer himself.
According to news reports no one was injured.
OceanInfo.com describes the phenomena thusly:
A mega-tsunami is a remarkably large wave created by the normal
displacement of water that would cause a regular tsunami. The
tsunami that occurred in the India Ocean in 2004 is often cited as
an example. That wave was unusually powerful and wide-reaching. Due
to the rarity of these occurrences, there is no single scientific
definition of what a mega-tsunami is. Sometimes they are defined as
waves that occur as the result of something falling into the ocean,
such as a meteor or a landslide.
Remember when Garrett McNamara tried to surf a wave created by a
falling bit of glacier?
Very cool.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
‘Cutthroat savage’ who ruined surfer’s wave
of the century at Kirra pens heartfelt note of apology to victim:
“It’s like the feeling after a bender when you blacked out and
found out later you did something you had no idea about!”
By Derek Rielly
"Nothing I say can bring that wave back or take
away the humiliation on my behalf."
Two weeks ago, lucky Gold Coast surfers thrilled to
four-to-six feet of east swell, Kirra organising the lines into
these wonderful green funnels.
And Mitch Parkinson, cuz to Joel and star of
BeachGrit’s surfboard test series, rode the wave of the
day, a tube filmmaker Justin Gane said had the potential to be one
of the greatest rides ever ridden at Kirra – at
least twenty-five seconds in the hole.
Of course, as vision shows, Mitch’s adventure was abbreviated
when a man fell out of the air and into Mitch’s trajectory. Opinion
was unanimous online, the drop-in a piece of cutthroat savagery
etc.
“I almost felt bad for being angry at him, he was so rattled,”
said Mitch Parko after.
Now, the surfer, whom we’ll keep anonymous ‘cause who needs the
grief right?, contacted BeachGrit wanting to “explain my
side of the story after being crucified by the surfing world for
that wave at Kirra. I would have pulled into that
wave if I had not been so stunned and surprised someone was on it.
I’m not someone to bail from a wave like that without reason. I
would like to just copy and paste the email I sent Mitch Parko so
you understand…”
The surfer also sent, at my request, a couple of shots to prove
he can surf.
(Email below)
Hey lad,
I really wanted to explain my side of the story. I’m baffled
if it was the wind and anglewith people further up the
shoulder that were paddling or because you’re such a wizard and
were so deep behind the curtain I have no idea.
But the honest truth is, I had no idea you were on that wave
when I made the decision to go, only to hear you when I was a
quarter of the way down about to pull in. I was so surprised you
were there and bailed because I thought you may have got around me
to the next section.
It’s like the feeling after a bender when you have blacked
out and found out later you have done something you had no idea
about.
Firstly, I love surfing and have so much respect for it and
don’t surf good or anything but have surfed long enough and around
the world to never drop in on crew. If it was a fade or drop in I
wouldn’t have even looked back or would have actually pulled in but
I jumped off thinking you had a chance to make it
around so was not
intentional at all.
Talk about the wrong place at the wrong time caught on cam.
I know nothing I say can bring that wave back or take away the
humiliation on my behalf. I’m going through some rough personal
stuff in life at the moment so this is the last thing I need for my
mental health and just had to clear it up.
I really hope you can put aside the anger and frustration to
truly know I didn’t know you were on it and would never have done
that if I knew someone was on a mental pit like that or just on the
wave in general.
I’m sure you have done something in life that you never
meant to do and hopefully believe and understand even though it’s
easy to judge and think different from the footage.
Anyway, I hope you can accept this explanation/apology
and a couple cases of beer and put in the past.
A happy ending in the traditional sense, yes?
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Breaking: In move certain to exacerbate
already tense geopolitical situation, Ukraine becomes 109th nation
to join International Surfing Association!
By Chas Smith
The world is watching.
In a move that stunned politicians and
journalists around the world, the International Surfing
Association waded into the hottest geopolitical stew, yesterday, by
announcing that Ukraine would be the 109th nation to join.
As Russia amasses its forces at the country’s eastern border,
preparing for invasion, the ISA praised Ukraine’s many rivers and
lakes which “provide ample opportunity to practice surfing and its
various disciplines.”
The President of Ukraine Surfing Federation responded, “We are
so happy to become a part of the ISA family. This is another
important step on our way to developing surfing in Ukraine, not
only as a cultural movement of like-minded people who found
themselves in unity with the ocean, but also as an Olympic sport
with a deep-rooted history. I am glad that now Ukrainian athletes
who train both on our native waves of the Black Sea coast and
outside Ukraine have the opportunity to participate in
international competitions and proudly represent their country. I
am sure, this step will give our athletes motivation to improve
their skills and attract more young audiences to our sport and
culture.”
While the ISA’s new tagline is “A Better World Through Surfing,”
it is unlikely that Russia will be pleased. The current mess began
when Ukraine tried to deepen ties with the European Union in 2013.
I was in Kyiv weeks after the protests and wandered around the
charred Maidan Square. Anti-Russian sentiment extremely high. Many
checkpoints. Much mistrust.
The ISA will certainly be viewed as another “tangling alliance”
pulling Ukraine past Europe all the way to La Jolla.
The situation will continue to be monitored and news reported as
it develops.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Two-time world surfing champion John John
Florence sings praises of Peloton bikes as company reels from
revelation a kid was killed and forty injured by its treadmill as
US regulators warn people to stop using the $4000 device!
By John Miskelly
John John Florence puts muscle behind Peloton as
company hit by very bad press.
Endorsements. One minute you’re in a
mutually beneficial commercial relationship with a seemingly
innocuous but respected lifestyle brand, the next you’re throwing
together a desperate press release distancing yourself from god
knows what scandal.
Two days ago, the two-time world champion John (John) Florence
made an Instagram
post singing the praises of his Peloton Interactive
Inc. fitness bike, along with a promotional video in which he
appears alongside various other athletes, most notable of all
fastest man on earth Usain Bolt.
“When I had an ACL surgery in 2019, I got a Peloton bike to help
with the rehab process, “ posts John (John). “Throughout my
recovery I found myself using the bike all the time, and I’ve
continued using it ever since for workouts and warmups. It feels
like an honor to be mentioned alongside these athletes… I’m
excited about this partnership!”
Peloton get the rights. John (John) gets the bikes. Surfline Man
gets a nice big hit of dopamine unpacking another shiny new bit of
kit.
A match made in consumer lifestyle capitalist heaven.
A decidedly un-feel-good, largely contra-wellness combination of
words.
Peloton Interactive Inc. responded saying the warning was
“inaccurate and misleading”.
“There’s no reason to stop using the treadmill as long as
children and pets are kept away from it at all times, it is turned
off when not in use, and a safety key is removed.”
It should be emphasised that J(J)F only mentioned the Peloton
exercise bike and not the child-mangling treadmills mentioned in
the report, so there’ll probably be no back-peddling(!) from the
two-time world champion anytime soon.
Still, the timing between the story breaking and J(J)F’s post –
mere coincidence, or has surfing reached such a lofty status in the
minds of Joe public it’s now deployable as corporate
damage-limitation fodder?
Heady days.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Important surf voice Sam George makes
blistering case for more surfers in the lineup on VAL-centric
website: “Everything bad about surfing is due systemic as$holiness
associated with localism!”
By Chas Smith
"Pervasive perception of lack..."
The courting of the VAL is in full swing, from
the aisles at Costco to our World Surf League. As recent data has
shown, surfing is experiencing a participation boom. Lineups choked
with happy beginners straddling soft tops. Sun hats. Good vibes and
laughter. Turtle rolling in the impact zone. Going left on rights,
right on lefts, etc.
For the grumpy local, it feels positively apocalyptic but in a
just-released piece on VAL-centric website The Inertia,
important surf voice Sam George makes a blistering case that there
needs to be even more surfers in those choked lineups.
“Most surfers, when asked, will say that everything bad about
surfing is due to crowds,” he writes. “This is an
over-simplification perpetuated by a pervasive perception of lack.
The case can be made that, in fact, everything bad about surfing is
due to the systemic assholiness associated with localism that has
spread worldwide over the past six decades.”
Is he correct?
Systemic assholiness as root of all apocalyptic evil?
Co-Waterperson of the Year and owner of professional surfing
Dirk Ziff right to castigate all those years ago?
George continues, at length, but I didn’t read anymore.