Blood feud: Surfing great Shaun Tomson
slams marquee Volcom surfer in wild harangue, “Noa Deane, he’s a
big mouth, I want to see that dude get a wildcard at ten-foot Pipe
against Gabriel Medina. He’ll be crying! His body will be
flayed!”
By Derek Rielly
"The guy’s got a big mouth and never stops whining
about the WSL. Let’s see that dude step up!"
The great Shaun Tomson, a man who redefined backside
tuberiding at Pipeline in 1975 and who won a world title at
twenty-two, has hit out at the Australian surfer Noa Deane for his
since redacted anti-WSL stance.
In a wild harangue on podcast The Boardroom, which is oiled by
Surfer’s former online editor Scott Bass, Tomson, now sixty-six, is
led into a discussion about the WSL, wildcards, and so on.
Tomson is a a clean-skin with a fiery anti-drugs stance and was
once described by Kelly Slater as the “ultimate pro”.
Fifty-three minute in he fumes.
“I’d love to see these wildcards, you know, the big mouths like
Noa Deane, big mouth, I want to see that dude, give him a wildcard
at ten-foot Pipe. I want to see Noa Deane with his big mouth come
up against Italo Ferreira and let’s see what happens.”
A theatrical pause.
“Let me tell you, the dude will be savaged! He will be
cryyyyying… with his body… he will be flayed.
The guy’s got a big mouth and never stops whining about the WSL.
Let’s see that dude step up! People just let these dudes chirp.
Step up and put up or shut up!”
It’s a pretty good effort to get a little emotion out of Shaun,
he ain’t one for stepping out of his usual boundary lines of
positivity, surfing-for-everyone etc.
Sadly for Shaun, ol Noa set his anti-WSL trip aside two days
after the Surfer Poll awards in 2014 when he described his “fuck
the WSL” moment as “incredibly stupid… I’m meant to be a role
model in surfing and my actions on the night were not appropriate
and that was not the time or place to voice that opinion.”
Wildcards at Pipe?
Three years ago, he took down world champ John John Florence at
the Volcom Pipe Pro… at ten-foot Pipeline.
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Mainstream Media credits forecasting
website Surfline with “guaranteeing waves” for surfing’s Olympic
debut!
By Chas Smith
Bullish.
In an exceptionally bullish claim, forecasting
website Surfline has gone on record stating that there will be
quality waves on tap for surfing’s grand Olympic debut. An
exceptionally bullish claim that the mainstream media, not
generally known for trading on nuance, has taken as a
“guarantee.”
Surfline’s forecasting director, Kevin Wallis, told Yahoo! Sports,
“Once surfing was officially in the Olympics, we started thinking
about where the event might be held. We wanted consistent waves and
decent-quality surf close to Tokyo.”
Shidashita Beach, in the Chiba prefecture, was chosen after
combing “40 years’ worth of historical records” but also because,
“There’s a huge parking area, which on a summer weekend with waves
will see hundreds of surfers hanging out between surfs in specially
equipped vans and cars complete with shower systems, barbecue
grills, and small refrigerators stocked with cold beer.”
Wallis predicted 2-3+ weeks ago but is now confident that the
surf will reach the 5-7 ft. range on Monday.
Yahoo! Sports, amazed, declared “mystery solved” as to how the
“Olympics guarantees that surfing — which makes its Olympic debut
at Tokyo — actually takes place during the Olympics” but also
couched, slightly, by revealing the waves don’t have to be in the
10-15 ft. range for the event to be fun to watch as, “Surfers in
the Olympics will be using five- to six-foot shortboards, as
opposed to eight-to-10-foot longboards, meaning the waves don’t
need to be as big for competition purposes.”
Devon Howard is, currently, very angry.
But back to the main thrust, here. If your loved ones’ lives
were dependent upon a Surfline forecast would you sleep easy or go
out back and start digging graves, tears streaming down cheeks?
It is rarely the wrong call to get a jump on things.
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Sign of the times: Shark bite kits
installed in beach car parks along stretch of iconic Western
Australian surf spots!
By Derek Rielly
A triumph of pragmatism.
A Western Australian boardriders club, pragmatic as hell
and who ain’t afraid to mention the unmentionable, has organised a
chain of shark bite kits and defibrillator machines at
five iconic beaches in the state’s south-west.
The kits stretch from the accessible-only-by-four-wheeler,
Bears, to just out the front of Taj Burrow’s (former) pussy palace
at Rabbits, Yallingup main break, Smiths and Injidup Car
Park,
Each time there’s a negative interaction (see, I’m learning)
with a Great White, I give Jon a call, ask him to break down the
latest attack and the response from other surfers and
first-responders.
He’s made it his life work to get tourniquets in the hands of
Australian surfers who, for the first time in the sport’s history,
have to seriously confront the possibility of interacting in a
negative fashion with the suddenly everywhere Great
White.
Still, and this is real important, a shark attack, even by a
monster White isn’t necessarily a death sentence.
According to Cohen, who is forty and who grew up in Canada and
got into surfing while at college in Hawaii, if you can get the
de-limbed person to the beach and apply a tourniquet above the
wound so no blood can spurt out the hole you’re good.
He say that once you’ve stopped the blood flow you’ve got four
hours before the leg, or arm, is choked off and dies. It means if
you’re at a remote beach with no phone redemption, you can
tourniquet the wound and take off for an ambulance or chopper
without your buddy dying.
“It’s the same principle as a car crash, someone falling off a
building or getting hit by a bullet in Iraq,” says Cohen. “Stop the
bleeding and get the surfer to shore. In thirty seconds, using a
tourniquet, you’ve saved a friend’s life.”
The kits in West Oz are the basic slam kit, one hundred and
twenty dollars. Someone gets hit, you go to the defibrillator box,
call emergency (triple zero in Australia), and the lock
opens.
That ain’t perfect, says Jon.
Like, he’s thrilled his kits are there at the beach but he knows
someone could bleed out in the time it takes to get the kit
unlocked.
And, at a lot of places n the south-west, only one telephone
network, the most expensive one, works.
Jon wants stand-alone shark kits, unlocked, and containing not
just the standard tourniquets but advanced equipment in case any
doctors or paramedics are around.
This’d include junctional tourniquets, for “absolutely horrible
wounds, the arm or leg completely gone” and a device that acts like
a little balloon. You stick it into the hole, blow it up and staple
skin over the hole to keep pressure on it. Other tactics include
trying to sew over a bleeding artery if you can see it.
Advanced, yeah, but it’s surprising how many docs surf.
“We don’t wanna confuse anyone but this would give ambos,
police, doctors, nurses, extra equipment to play with.”
As well, you open the box and it automatically calls the police,
and even Jon, so he can monitor the situation, help where he
can.
It’s ironic that Jon has just taken a gig as the director of
emergency at Manning Base hospital, a short-ish drive from
Tuncurry, where a surfer was killed a couple of months back, and a
short chopper run from Crescent Head, where a surfer had his arm
destroyed by a White a few weeks back.
Jeff Bezos organ The Washington Post
describes Olympic surfing with never-before-seen flourish: “It’s
big enough for her to barrel – riding through a cascading tunnel of
water!”
By Chas Smith
Get barrel.
I watched the Tokyo Olympic opening ceremony,
this morning, and thrilled at the pomp, the circumstance, the
gorgeous tinged with melancholy performance. Empty seats,
apocalyptic overtones but gorgeous because of more than in spite
of.
As much frustration as there is in Japan, over hosting an
international spectacle in the teeth of pandemic, the proud island
nation owned the moment and none other could do it better so here
we are. Surfing’s grand Olympic debut set against a rich backdrop
it may not even deserve.
There is much interest in our Sport of Kings and Jeff Bezos
organ, The Washington Post, is here to explain the nuances, the
li’l bits. In an interactive feature titled S U R F I N G,
the Post uses Florida’s Caroline Marks as proxy. Shall we read one
nib?
It’s big enough for her to barrel – riding through a
cascading tunnel of water – but also easy to navigate, allowing
Marks to build speed and use the wave lip like a ramp, launching
her and her board into the air for twirling tricks. The mere idea
of this mythical wave makes her smile.
I’ve made it part of my life’s work to make the world “barrel” a
verb, as it relates to surfing, and you don’t know how proud I am
at this moment.
This isn’t about me, though, it’s about all of us and we should,
each and every one, keep scrap books of our favorite grand Olympic
debut moments.
Let’s barrel.
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Wresting “mantle of cool” back from
equestrian showjumping, Olympic surfers “gleeful” about approaching
destructive typhoon!
By Chas Smith
And we're back.
World media was shocked, days ago, when it was
revealed that an Australian Olympic equestrian showjumper would be
forbidden from attending the Tokyo Games after testing positive for
cocaine thereby ceding the “mantle of rebelliousness” from
heretofore derelict surfers.
Victoria’s Jamie Kermond declared the result came from “a single use of the
drug” and was very remorseful but the damage was
done.
Surfers, now cast as “goodie-two-shoes” and “mamas-children,”
reeled and none more than Australia’s Irukandjis whose motto
remains “Deadly in the Water™.”
Hours ahead of surfing’s grand Olympic debut, though, surfers
are attempting to wrest pronouns like “thoughtless” and
“irresponsible” back from showjumpers by greeting a potential
destructive hurricane with wanton joy.
As reported by Reuters:
Japanese residents may be worried about the prospect of a
typhoon forming off the coast next week, but the surfers taking
part in the Olympic Games are welcoming the possibility of some big
waves with open arms.
Reports of a possible typhoon off the coast were greeted
with glee by some competitors. “It’s small but there is swell on
the way! Let’s go,” wrote Australian surfer Owen Wright on
Instagram following his first practice session at Tsurigasaki Surf
Beach, where competition begins on Sunday.
No matter how rough the weather gets, New Zealander Ella
Williams said competitors would take it as it comes.
“We’re prepared for that, we’ve been preparing for a while.
It brought us here and we’ll be fine,” she said.