And we're back.
World media was shocked, days ago, when it was revealed that an Australian Olympic equestrian showjumper would be forbidden from attending the Tokyo Games after testing positive for cocaine thereby ceding the “mantle of rebelliousness” from heretofore derelict surfers.
Victoria’s Jamie Kermond declared the result came from “a single use of the drug” and was very remorseful but the damage was done.
Surfers, now cast as “goodie-two-shoes” and “mamas-children,” reeled and none more than Australia’s Irukandjis whose motto remains “Deadly in the Water™.”
Hours ahead of surfing’s grand Olympic debut, though, surfers are attempting to wrest pronouns like “thoughtless” and “irresponsible” back from showjumpers by greeting a potential destructive hurricane with wanton joy.
As reported by Reuters:
Japanese residents may be worried about the prospect of a typhoon forming off the coast next week, but the surfers taking part in the Olympic Games are welcoming the possibility of some big waves with open arms.
Reports of a possible typhoon off the coast were greeted with glee by some competitors. “It’s small but there is swell on the way! Let’s go,” wrote Australian surfer Owen Wright on Instagram following his first practice session at Tsurigasaki Surf Beach, where competition begins on Sunday.
No matter how rough the weather gets, New Zealander Ella Williams said competitors would take it as it comes.
“We’re prepared for that, we’ve been preparing for a while. It brought us here and we’ll be fine,” she said.
And we are back.

or Skynyrd “That Smell”.
Same question as C4 asked you, what drugs did Curren do or Cheyne?
It would explain a few things
about Curren’s recent behavior though.
Smoking weed doesn’t make you end up like the way Curren is. I don’t know any drug that does that to you. He’s got some other shit going on. Some of my best friends have been smoking weed every day for their entire lives and have good careers, own houses, surf every day. They show no signs of any kind of impairment from it.
Thank you.
Maybe some day one of our regular posters can share some insights about getting involved in drug trafficking.
I don’t know how many drug induendos I’ve seen on this website, but it’s quite a few.
Surfing(sometimes). Heckling. Drugs. Sharks. WSL. Kelly Slater and the odd celebrity…you see some kind of pattern developing?
More as the story develops…
What drugs did Curren do? Cheyne doesn’t seem any worse for wear and I don’t remember a time in his career that was affected by doing drugs. Hanging out in Byron Bay back then probably wasn’t all that productive but it didn’t seem like he was addicted to anything.
Alcohol is a lot worse for you then smoking weed IMHO. Should have listed Shane Herring.
I don’t know about that, weed kinda opens the door to mess with your mind.
Mystics and others used it for, shall we say, so called, ‘enlightenment’.
Some call it the Devil’s lettuce.
Life is short. Try drugs if you want to.
There’s a big difference between using them to blow off steam every once in a while vs. using them to carry you through your day.
By saying colorful, it is by no way condoning it–its just a way of saying that surfing has a multi-varied past that encompasses many aspects of life, the good and the bad…
P S.
surfers today may appreciate a good storm– but surfers today are about as bland and rebellious as a ‘bowl of Wheaties’.
They even follow the Wsl.
P,S,
a little quote from “Tracks” magazine,
“I didn’t know it at the time, but there were chambered boards being stuffed with dope all over Kuta and Legian, every day, by travelling surfers, many of them champions, who were simply following a time-honoured tradition established in the 1960s. I was too much of a coward to try doing it myself –besides, I was on an enormous salary as the editor of Tracks (it’s a joke, Albe) – but over the coming years I was to see this process many times, and came to learn much about surfboards and drugs through my association with the great Jeff Hakman .
I think that puts to rest some of the ‘goody two shoes image’, at least from our past.
I didn’t say, “I don’t know where to start”, I said “I barely scratched the surface”.
His book did cross my mind though, haven’t quite got around to reading it yet.
I’m telling these just from memory basically and a little on-line refreshment work.
And ya, the list and capers goes on, and on.
Uhh, yes Chas, pro surfers, just seem a little like goody two shoes, pretty straight laced these days, and going to ‘toe the line’ for Dirk Ziff. Even wearing ‘team uniforms’–so cute.
But rebellious? Hahaha.
Maybe someone should educate them a little about surfing’s colorful past, Jeff Hackman getting busted for smuggling, Reno getting busted for possession, Rick Rasmussen getting shot and killed while trying to score some heroin, surfers smuggling drugs inside of their surfboardss across borders.
And heck, I think I’ve barely scratched the surface here.
Rob Page getting locked up in Japan for acid.
A couple of very famous surfers using their girlfriends as drug mules out of Bali.
One of the guys from the Endless Summer smuggling dope out of Nepal (I think it was); it’s in his hard to find biography.
Gary Elkerton getting addicted to painkillers after his knee injury.
They were kooks, but those Brasilian guys from “Operation Playboy”. Lived the high life but did get one of their mates the firing squad in Indo.
Every single guy that I grew up with and who was a stoner ended up doing nothing with their lives.
Yes, by saying colorful, it is by no way condoning it–its just a way of saying that surfing has a multi-varied past that encompasses many aspects of life, the good and the bad…
Drugs are a one way street—to no-where.
Only users lose drugs!
Fortunately he wasn’t caught doing horse or worse yet, doing his horse.
Give it time.
Professional equestrians have only just begun to display the depraved debauchery of which they are capable.
Great now that we’re back can we discuss the iraknaji outfits? What the fucken fuck?
I hope Connor Oleary lights the flame. He’s a good Jap kid like Naomi and itchyrashy.
Jap Lives Matter
Oreary?
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