Australian surfer who lost “three quarters
of his thigh” and was told he’d never walk again after horror Great
White attack makes triumphant return to waves, “I wanted to be
remembered for what I did afterwards.”
On the beach, an off-duty nurse helped Trist use his leash for a
tourniquet, saving Connellan’s life.
Now, Connellan, who is twenty-eight, has made a movie called
Pyrophytic about his recovery, phyrophetic referring
to plants that have adapted to bushfires, can survive ‘em, thrive
from ’em.
Like Connellan has post-shark attack, wandering the ridges, as
they say, and coming back a prophet.
The film, which releases next year, follows his ride from coma
to you-aint-gonna-walk-again-kiddo to throwing himself over ledges
and polishing off enormous tubes.
Trailer here.
It’s a treasure.
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World’s greatest race car driver Lewis
Hamilton wins Sao Paulo Grand Prix after being disqualified from
seeding rounds as pundits wonder if British star’s surf obsession
is fueling unheralded run!
It was reported earlier in the week that the
world’s greatest race car diver, Lewis Hamilton, was disqualified
from the seeding rounds of the Sao Paulo Grand Prix after his
Mercedes land rocket had failed to meet standards.
Hamilton, who hails from Best Britain, was forced to start the
race in dead last because his drag reduction system was illegal,
the stewards of the race declaring, “Hamilton’s car could not
fulfill the requirement of a maximum 85 millimeter
measurement.”
Much hand-wringing etc. except not by Sir Lewis who went out and
won the dang race anyhow.
Per the just-released BBC report:
It was a gripping conclusion to a weekend of bitterness and
rancour between the two teams contesting the championship, and
controversy both on and off the track.
The 101st victory of Hamilton’s career sent a powerful
message of intent and is a potentially critical moment in the
championship.
Had Verstappen held Hamilton off, he would have been able to
finish second behind the Mercedes driver at the three remaining
races in Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Abu Dhabi and still win the
title.
Now, the title race is wide open and the two head to the
Middle East with everything to play for.
Max Verstappen, flying Dutchman, also touched Hamilton’s car and
received a hefty fine and the Middle East will be exciting, as it
always is, though pundits were left to wonder how the diminutive
Englishman could be so cool under fire.
Some, here, posited that it is due his surf obsession.
For I was, recently, at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch there in the
cow folds of Lemoore, California, enjoying a bounty of waves when I
heard “someone special is coming.”
“Who?” I asked as a true surf journalist.
“Lewis Hamilton,” was the answer and whoa. I very much looked
forward to watching him hand drag the roof of that miniature
barrel.
The 7x F1 winner is a noted enthusiast of Surf Ranch, spending
much time there, and you can see his fast twitch muscle skills
here.
Alas, it was not to be. Apparently he could not secure a private
jet out of Los Angeles and had to miss his session but when I heard
he had been disqualified from Brazilian seeding rounds, I wondered
if it was surf’s fault. Head not in game etc. Too much water
logging.
When he won, I wondered if it was surf’s perfection. His
knowing, in his depths, that all he needs are some tasty waves and
a cool buzz.
No Dutchman, however flying, could transcend that amount of
chill.
Surfing for the win.
Spicoli approved.
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Cold water surf destination Iceland mocks
“Foil King” Mark Zuckerberg’s pivot to the Metaverse in must-watch
pasquinade!
You likely only know of Iceland as home to the
fairylike chanteuse Björk and as a very famous cold-water surf
destination. The parliamentary republic, floating fairylike itself
in the North Atlantic, is backdrop and co-star of two of the
greatest surf films of all-time: Joe G’s masterful Strange
Rumblings in Shangri-la…
…and Freezing.
But the land of fire and ice is famous for so much more and its
tourist board decided to show some of those things in the best
send-up I have ever seen.
As you are aware, the world’s fifth richest man, foil king, Mark
Zuckerberg recently pivoted his behemoth Facebook into “Meta” and
imagined a future where we would, could, all play with Kai Lenny in
an all-encompassing digital universe called the “Metaverse.”
Iceland imagines a different future.
The Icelandverse.
Enjoy.
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Tear-jerking documentary casts surf as a
woman’s only escape from Bangladesh’s brutal patriarchy, “People
say girls who go surfing are sluts. There is no plan B. Surfing is
everything!”
Bangladesh is the sorta place women’s rights advocate
Malala Yousafzai would love to turn on
its head and shake by the ankles till all the loose change
falls outta its pockets.
Wives doused with nitric acid, necklace and earrings melting
into skin. Murders over dowery disputes. Husbands striking wives
over the head with bricks because they don’t get cold water from
the refrigerator fast enough during iftar.
A bleak place to be a gal.
But then there are the Surf Girls of Cox’s Bazar.
InSync Media and director Elizabeth D. Costa have created a
documentary that shows how surfing has given three girls from Cox’s
Bazar, Bangladesh’s main surfing hub, a chance at escaping the
brutal black male patriarchy.
Per the presser,
Shobe, Ayesha and Suma break away from the drudgery of their
lives by joining a surf club in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh. The girls
fight family pressure and social judgement, for a few hours on the
waves. They gain confidence as their natural skill and prowess
gains attention and praise. Soon they are poised to make history as
Bangladesh’s first women surfers. The odds are stacked against them
but the girls refuse to give up. Balancing the freedom of the waves
with the restrictive realities of their circumstances, we
experience the thrill and struggle of coming-of-age in a developing
country.
It takes a stone cold heart not to be moved, maybe even a little
choked up, by the two-minute trailer.
We hear 14-year-old Shobe say, “I don’t dwell on the past. I
think about the future. I choose my path. And now I am free.”
(Not the Orange County
I-just-dropped-the-kids-off-at-school-and-now-
I-can-drink-my-chai-latte-in -peace-free but Bangladeshi free.)
She continues,
“My dream is to go to different countries and participate in
surfing competitions and be famous. If my dad sees me on TV when
I’m famous then he will come back.”
We hear from Suma, The Provider, who’s been responsible for her
families income since she was seven. When she sells eggs on the
beach, she stops to watch the surfers.
Her reaction?
“I have no other dream left.”
Ayesha is deemed The Survivor. Her father is abusive and
believes all girls who surf are sluts.
Her dream is to be a lifeguard on the beach.
She’s quoted with a sullen face,
“Why is every day such a chore. My mind just escapes to the sea.
I mean, surfing is just mixed in my blood.”
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Casual beach sex fingered as main culprit
in destroying delicate environment of surf-rich Canary Islands:
“This cruising is as bad as off-road driving!”
Spain’s Canary Islands, floating west of sunny
North Africa is on every surfer-worth-her-salt’s “places to go and
poke around” list. Razor sharp volcanic reefs, feisty locals, nooks
and crannies to explore and maybe get lucky within. The chain also
just so happens to be on many
sexually-adventurous-tourist-worth-his-chaps, hosting a very large
Gay Pride festival etc. but a damning new report has fingered this
casual public sex, not surfing, with destroying the
environment.
According to
CNN, a new paper in the Journal of Environmental
Management — “Sand, Sun, Sea and Sex with Strangers, the ‘five S’s.
Characterizing ‘cruising’ activity and its environmental impacts on
a protected coastal dunefield” — looks for the first time at the
environmental impact on the coastal reserve being used as a
cruising area.
Researchers inventoried 298 “sex spots” on the beach, over a
total area of over two square miles, mainly among “bushy and dense
vegetation” and nebkhas — dunes that wad up around vegetation. They
studied them during May 2018, a period which included the local Gay
Pride festival.
The tourists’ sex, and “cruiser trampling,” impacts
“directly” not only on the nebkhas, but also on eight native plant
species, three of which are endemic, they found.
As a result of the tourists’ activities, there has been a
“complete abandonment” of environmental education in the reserve,
according to the study. The reserve was originally created with
education as a “primary activity.” What’s more, Gran Canaria giant lizards — a popular sight in
the Canary islands — have “died after eating condoms left behind by
pleasure seekers,” wrote Patrick Hesp, one of the report’s authors,
in an article for The Conversation.
Hosting up to 14 million visitors a year, Gran Canaria is a
gay-friendly tourist destination, with visitors from the US, UK and
Germany among the main markets, and while the authors are quick to
emphasize that there is “no intention to criticize some of the
LGBTI community,” and stressed that it was not just LGBTQ visitors
having sex in the dunes, they note that “cruising is openly
practiced” on Maspalomas.
At the end, the authors of the paper did not want to call for an
end to public sex but noted, “One couple having sex on the beach is
one thing; but having hundreds converge on the same area every day
damages the dunes as much as off-road driving does.”
Surfing, mercifully, spared any wrath.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros