Flipping the script.
It is Christmas morning in Cortina, Italy and beautiful. Snow on ground, church bells ringing and I must get to the slopes but before I do, I would like to leave you with a loving new profile of Kai Lenny by the great Daniel Duane.
Duane is an accomplished author, having written one of my very favorite surf books Caught Inside. The piece is in the technology magazine Wired and likely very good but I will have to read later as the mountain is calling.
Here’s a paragraph.
Hearing Lenny talk about this in person, I could see his appeal to the Zuckerbergs of the world. The nearest cultural antecedent to Lenny—the other obvious choice for a billionaire’s water-sport man crush—was Lenny’s own childhood hero, Maui big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton. But Hamilton was the living archetype of the blond, muscle-bound surfer-god, with giant shoulders and cold green eyes—and therefore too reminiscent of the high school bully who pushes around the budding computer genius before the latter flips the script and becomes richer than God.
Lenny, by contrast, reads more like the protagonist in an extreme-sports version of Revenge of the Nerds, where the dorky kid from a loving family, abused in adolescence by the popular boys, grows up to become a better athlete than any of them, and way better looking.
Very cool.
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I would hang and talk to zuckerberg. If he wanted to make some money I would make some money with him no problem. If he wanted to spread the word on surfing I’d say tell everybody we had a great conversation. I don’t think kai is a sellout. He’s using connections just like you and I would. It’s not like he’s trying to get everybody into bitcoin!
Well considering that Zuckerberg has devolved into a Soros educated communist, I wonder how Kai feels about “donating” 60-75% of his hard fought earning to the Party? Maybe BBF won’t be on anyone’s radar longer then then a clean up set at Mavericks, Nazareth or Jaws. No go wax your stick.
Zuckerberg is a tw@t…. would luv him to paddle out at my break and ride over him for fun
Looking forward to reading Malibu’s King profile, Jonah Hill.
Is he befriended too of the greatest foilboarder in the world, Matt Zuckerbold, The King of Metaverse?
you ain’t one of them beware they are users
Hmm I realize you meant 5 tablespoons and not tons of sugar. Still good though.
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I don’t get what is this is about? Would like to hear kie lenny explain why his friend pitted people against each other for profit. If he’s ever asked Zuckerberg why he needs so much money. I picture these 2 talking at each other about there experiences. Then just saying yep and nodding, without ever hearing anything. Then I feel a gimp suit comes out and I stop the train of thought out of fear of offending my own wokeness.
Fuck sake, Chas. At least read it.
Quite interesting, as it happens.
Would rather see your efforts over on the Offrocker chat, and on the chat below my year end review, than this, Chas. Get with the (your) program and join in.
Umm, the great? Daniel Duane? Is that sarcssm?
It seems D.D. (Daniel Duane) a late comer to surfing, was a full on ‘Val’, (Vulnerable adult learner), who started surfing as an adult in his 20s or 30s, and has a somewhat skewered outlook on surfing..
Seems Duane was ‘intimidated’ by the words “Kooks go Home” (that had a swastika next to it) written on the steps to the beach on one of his ‘first surfs’ as a ‘adult learner’, and that that may have ‘scarred’ his developing surf psyche a little.
Seems Duane grew up in a landlocked area and missed that important right of passage that grommets go through and picked up most of his surf knowledge by ‘binge’ ‘reading’ surf books–instead of living it.
I wouldn’t take anything this dude says too seriously.
How should we take the things you say?
Chazz,
Best Wishes for a Merry Christmas!
Really!
Yaaaawn…
What’s the latest on Willy Kemp’s flu ?
Isn’t he meant to be updating us constantly ?
Got curious as well when I read your comment so I went to check on his social media. He’s fine and back to posting shirtless workout videos.
His eyebrows are sexy when sweating
Whats his current Kemperature?
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Bah! Humbug!
At least you were gifted the injury wild card.