Heroic.
But what is there not to love about Nathan Florence, brother of Olympian and many-time World Surf League John John, OnlyFans pioneer? The middle child of a now-legendary Hawaiian family has never been afraid to go his own way, carve his own path, become the professional surfer we need.
Most recently, the boy who refused to follow dirty ol’ BeachGrit’s example of openly “trashing” the world’s greatest surfer Kelly Slater, took to the largest picture/video-based social network on the channel to praise bodyboarders.
Per Instagram:
As is the case with most big slabs the bodyboarders always paddle the biggest heaviest sets of the day so sick to watch them go at it! @samthomas_ here knifing into a bomb!! Full session up on the youtube now!
The “full session” is quite something, taking place at the notorious Shipsterns Bluff, and very much worth your time.
But do your recall the epoch when bodyboarders or “dick draggers” or “lids” were the sworn enemies of surfers? The enmity seems silly now what with SUPs and e-foilers doing their thang and I very much agree with Florence in his assessment. So much so that I had a dream last night that I was weaving through a giant sketchy tube on my belly.
Should we all ditch pretense and just lay down?
It’d be a lot cooler if we did.
Your thoughts, please, below.