Shame on us but mostly you.
We are, each of us, jerks. You, of course, but every blue moon me too. Though can we return, once more, to the just-wrapped Outerknown Tahiti Pro which provided fireworks, superlatives, moments that will be etched in our shared history forever and ever and ever? I see no reason not to as it is grey and sad in Southern California today and memories of impossibly green hills rising from impossibly blue waters are better than gloom.
Fantastic.
A fantastic show though you should feel very terrible about your response to Filipe Toledo’s first round heat against world’s greatest surfer Kelly Slater and Slater’s employee Nathan Hedge. The waves were terrifyingly good, that heat, emphasis on terrifying with Slater and Hedge trading bombs while the current best surfer in the world bobbed out the back simply terrified.
Oh, you applauded Slater and Hedge but spent most your time challenging Toledo, wondering about his courage, his prizing self-protection over glory.
Me too, lightly, in a moment of weakness, I’ll admit.
Well, we should all be ashamed of ourselves, most more than I, because, in an act of synchronicity, surf inspiration Jonah Hill released a statement at the very same time that Toledo wasn’t paddling that declared he, also, was choosing to bob out the back, metaphorically, and will no longer promote his films, publicly, because it is anxiety inducing.
Unlike you, me and our unhealthiness, our fun making, Hill was universally praised for his bold self-protection stance. Per industry publication Deadline:
Jonah Hill has received plaudits for sharing recently his decision to step back from promoting his films in order to protect his mental health.
After the Superbad star opened up in a public letter he shared on Deadline, saying he had suffered for 20 years from anxiety attacks, which were exacerbated by media appearances and public-facing events, two psychologists told the BBC of the importance of his message for the wider audience.
Dr Sandra Wheatley told the BBC that “somebody who has so much to lose is actually prepared to step back” should be admired.
She said that celebrities were performing constantly whenever they were out in public. “But when they’re offstage, they go back to who they really are. So celebrities have to remember this persona in the media is an impersonation that you have, not you as an individual and that can be hard to balance.”
Consultant psychologist Dr Elena Bailey agreed that celebrities were “very vulnerable” in the public eye, and that stepping back as Hill has done is “self-protective behaviour.”
“This is because the type of attention and feedback and commentary on your life can have a very big impact on your mental health, causing a lot of anxiety, negative thoughts, symptoms of depression,” she said.
Really, shame on you.
Deep shame.
A little on me too but just a dab.
jonah is still gonna play jerry garcia, right?
I am quite appalled by all this as well, including my unbeknownst hedonic thoughts regarding these heroes of surf.
For someone like Jonah Hill, who denies any attempt to address his physical health, it is a beautiful act to see him push wholeheartedly into his mental health.
The two have no connection either and shame on any of you thinking otherwise.
Who denies any attempt to address his physical health? Are you for real? Talk about looking like a dink while trying to judge somebody’s physical appearance while actually knowing nothing about what one is talking about.
Hi jonah!
OK so how many times in the last 20 years have pros on the CT refused to paddle for waves out of fear?
Serious question.
I know some have just dropped anchor hoping for the magic set, not talking about them (Julian, Kelly most recently)
C’mon. Really wondering.
Neco Padaratz said he was not surfing teahupoo after his leash got caught to the reef. He did come back. This was 2004.
Thanks.
Gary Green and Bryce Ellis . Waimea Bay 1986 Billabong Pro. Refused to surf
Thanks. We need a full list from Matt.
I think the list will have a few entries for Flip
Over the last year or so I’ve really taken a liking to Jaddy.
It was impressive
Agreed, Jaddy is the best. He’s die hard charger.
If only Jonah Hill would pull back from acting.
And the Japanese tennis player who refused to do interviews for similar reasons — can we pile on her too? (Get your mind out of the gutter!) I guess the thinking is that it’s one thing to suffer from anxiety and depression, another to share your vulnerability with others in the name of helping them. People may have worries and fears, but real men suffer silently. Be a stoic, not a sissy. Maintain the facade or suffer ridicule. How should a man behave? Isn’t that the question? Gender expectations changing. Sensitive Felipe and Jonah on one side and Jack Robinson on the other. But even unshakeable Gabriel needed to tend to his internal garden, per Chas. And Cooper Chapman and others esp women’s surfers are comfortable talking about mental illness.
Fuck off Jonah ya fat c&*t
I’m squeaky clean on this one ,I not only admire pip for not catching any waves but think there should be more of it!!
Pro surfers in any lineup have my full support too sit out the back and watch.
Cheers of support from me if they paddle in rather than catch one wave!
In fact if a lot of surfers just stopped surfing I’d be stoked.
I agree and unlike most of the noble heathens(not to be confused with noble savages) on this site, I celebrated Filipe’s syncro swimming inspired paddling. If reminded me of the word salad of one of Maya Weeks, or possibly her under an assumed name, as he/she/it defended Maya’s challenge of white colonial settlers surfers
REEEeeeeee
Well I’m helping you out there. Or at least, my intense family schedule is.