Kunis (in Aqua Lung) with husband and dog.
Kunis (in Aqua Lung) with husband and dog.

Hollywood starlet Mila Kunis puts throwback Malibu, Byron longboarders to absolute shame; goes “full retro” by riding a paipo board in a scuba diving wetsuit!

Bold and brave.

Rétrospectif has been part of surfing’s various offerings since Joel Tudor sprang on the scene riding old longboards the way Miki Dora intended for them to be ridden. Before then, high-performance longboarding was a thing, with thick-thigh’d men bottom turning, bashing the lip, floating 9 foot fluorescent slabs of foam. Tudor, though, nimbly danced to the nose, twirled, drop-knee turned and, thus, a movement was born.

Now we have leashless longboards crowding lineups from Malibu to Byron, non-fluorescent, captained by shaggy hair’d boys in trim Birdwell trunks. Thick flat fishes, fins glassed on, piloted by sun-kissed girls wearing short-johns, gliders, single-fins, etc.

It could be argued that retro is more common than à la dernière mode but up to a certain point. Surfers are pack animals, preferring to operate within defined spaces. Tudor and his ilk established a certain era as ok of imitating but no surfer has yet gone “full retro” until now.

Mila Kunis, very famous actress and wife of Ashton Kutcher was recently spotted on a Santa Barbara beach wearing a scuba diving wetsuit, riding a paipo board. For those unaware, the paipo was ridden by ancient Hawaiians as a sort of proto-bodyboard. One has not been seen in public since and scuba wetsuits were worn by cold water surfers before Jack O’Neill fixed the wrong bits in the early 1950s.

Someone going “full retro” has been whispered about for years, though most throwback surfers are extremely scared and wondered if a return is ever possible? If he or she would be forever trapped in archaic times with no way back, stuck in the deep past even if the deep past becomes uncool with everyone back to thrusters etc.

Kunis, though, a bold pioneer. Shaking it off and not caring.

The new Joel Tudor.


Bring Kalani David home.

Surfing community rallies for repatriation of body of Hawaiian surf-skate superstar Kalani David from Costa Rica, “I don’t want my son in a jar or spread on the water…I want to give him a place you can go see him and know he is listening when you share your feelings with him”

"The idea of giving Kalani an eternal resting place befitting of the beautiful human he was is more heartbreaking than these words could ever express."

Ain’t anything in the world like outliving a child. And, for the parents of the surf-skate superstar Kalani David, dead of a seizure while surfing in Costa Rica three days ago, it’s a nightmare they’ve gotta live with for the rest of their lives. 

I’ve been back and forthing a little with Kalani’s daddy David the past few days, and the depth of sorrow, the immensity of his suffering, is obvious in his missives. 

Right now, his kid is in Costa Rica, and he wants to get him to Florida so he can be buried next to his beloved grandfather. When he was little, David says, Kalani had nightmares of his body being burned into ashes. David promised him that’d never happen. 

And, so, a gofundme has been set up to repatriate Kalani, with thirty-four k needed.

After only three hours and with six days until the funeral service, seven gees has been raised.

A race against the clock, as you can imagine. 

Kalani’s stepmom Andrea writes, 

“Our son is laying in wait at a morgue in San Jose, Costa Rica. He died of a massive seizure while surfing a remote area on Saturday, September 17. I’m already here and didn’t think twice about whatever I had to do, to make this happen. I am not prepared and the idea of giving Kalani an eternal resting place befitting of the beautiful human he was is more heartbreaking than these words could ever express.

“The list is beyond my ability to take in right now. Preparation, international flight, repatriation process, casket, service and eternal resting place, is something I find myself just broken in tears over. We wish to bury Kalani next to his grandfather, where his immediate family and relatives will follow at Florida Memorial Gardens. Where he can be visited and talked to. Guided if possible, by immediate family.

“I honestly believe Kalani would prefer Hawaii but that seems an impossibility right now. How much can I cover or ask from the people Kalani loved around the world? It just doesn’t seem fair either way. I wish it was me and it didn’t even matter? It’s my son and I want to see him on the weekends, sit by him and listen for his spirit. Which sounds tragically sad but it’s the least I can try for. He deserved more than I could ever give him and I don’t even feel right for asking but I will for Kalani. I don’t want my son in a jar or spread on the water, as I would see fit for myself. I want to give him a place you can go see him and know he is listening when you share your feelings with him.”

Donate here. 


Big Kahuna Larry Ellison (pictured).
Big Kahuna Larry Ellison (pictured).

World’s ninth richest man Larry Ellison shuts public out of Hawaii isle beach, scoffing at law and thrilling wealthy wellness pals, as fears of U.S. transforming into full plutocracy grow stronger!

Land of the rich, home of the rich.

The United States is made up of three men. Jeff Bezos, Elon Musk, Bill Gates. Larry Ellison, founder of Oracle and worth some 96.8 billion dollars, might be considered part of the “qualifying series” along with Mike Bloomberg, Jim Walton, Mark Zuckerberg and the ghost of Warren Buffett.

All fine and good, I suppose, except not assuaging the growing fear that the land of the free, home of the brave is actually just a plutocracy ruled for, and by, rich men.

Dumping gas on the fire, Ellison recently flaunted Hawaiian law by shuttering public access to a beach on the isle of Lanai. The New Yorker, with suspiciously tiny eyes, purchased 98% of the “pineapple island” in 2012 and his reign has not been without controversy. He has been accused of forcing families who have called the Lanai home for generations to pack their bags and vamoose and also wants to turn it into a “wellness utopia.”

Yikes.

More immediately, though, the beach closure. According to San Francisco Gate:

In Hawaii, public access to beaches and shorelines is required by law, but exceptions were made for Lanai Resorts at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. The company received permission from the County of Maui to add a metal gate at the entry to the beach park, which it owns, at a time when the governor ordered the closure of all beaches.

Conditions of this agreement included that the gate be open at all times, day and night, and it should only be closed during “severe weather emergencies or emergency proclamations.”

The gate was shut from July 16, according to community Facebook posts, through July 28, after a historic swell flooded the park. A Lanai Resorts spokesperson told Civil Beat that pedestrians could walk around the gate when it was closed, but large boulders scattered to the sides of the road prevented vehicles from going around.

Covid closures, man. How do you think they are aging?

A great idea that kept us all safe or… not?

More as the story develops.


"Last night a little dancer, she came dancing to my door Last night, that little angel, she came pumping on my floor."
"Last night a little dancer, she came dancing to my door Last night, that little angel, she came pumping on my floor."

California superstar Kolohe Andino eviscerates Olympics with wild rebel yell: “Being honest… I think the Olympics are stale and boring and surfing is the best sport in the world!”

Hammer.

Students of competitive professional surfing know that the game extends far beyond our World Surf League and its Championship Tour. There is, also, the Challenger Series, Qualifying Series, Junior Tour and International Surfing Association World Surfing Games, to name but a few thrilling iterations.

There is also, of course, Olympic surfing introduced last year in Japan and set to roll out in 2024, 2028 and likely 2032 as the Games will be in Teahupo’o, Los Angeles and Brisbane, all surfing hubs. But you would imagine surfing gold the very height of achievement? Would you imagine surfing so lucky to be included?

According to California superstar, and current number twenty in the world, Kolohe Andino, f*ck no and, frankly, the other way around.

In a shockingly frank interview ahead of the aforementioned World Surf Games, currently underway in Huntington Beach, Andino unleaded a rebel yell:

“Being honest, more than surfing needs the Olympics, I think the Olympics needs surfing. I think the Olympics are pretty stale and boring and that surfing is the best sport in the world. You add surfing to the Olympics, I think more people will watch it.”

Hammer.

He followed a question from Pete Townend if he would attempt to qualify for the Olympics again and quickly answered, “100%. That’s like asking if the sun is going to come up tomorrow.”

Andino was subsequently defeated by Huntington Beach’s own Kanoa Igarashi, surfing for Japan, in the quarterfinals but, man.

Stale and boring?

Ouch.


Tributes flow for Hawaiian surf-skate prodigy Kalani David, dead at twenty-four, “RIP brother Kalani, you were always such an inspired and stoked Grommet, through all that life threw at you you kept your head up”

"Miss you brother. Rest in paradise."

In a perfect world, the story of Kalani David, son of American David David and Costa Rican Maureen Rojas, would’ve ended in a world title or some sorta equivalent triumph. 

As it is, was, Kalani’s life, living with a chronic health condition that would eventually kill him, demonstrates, as if any demonstration was necessary, the chaos and randomness of our existence. 

His biological mama Maureen was sixteen when she had Kalani, seeded when Daddy David was living in Central America.

Flooded with sponsor cash by RVCA as a kid, Kalani was touted as the world’s first genuine crossover surfer, skater.

When he was eighteen, Kalani’s heart stopped while skating in Oceanside, California, tests determining the kid was suffering from  Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome, where an extra muscle forms on the heart causing its wild revving

Doctors told him he was living on a knife’s edge, that he could die anytime. And if it happened in the surf, ain’t nothing he could do. He’d drown. 

In January 2017,  doctors opened the kid up to try and fix the prob.

Before the op, Kalani wrote,

“Getting my surgery done today, but I have one thing to say before his happens… The doctor said I’m lucky to even be alive after seizing for more than 6 hours. Which I was dead for 2 days. I’m going into heart surgery right now to get this extra piece of muscle burned. I gotta move on with my life and focus on my career. I love you Keoni just know that, I’m always here for you, love you boo boo your big brother Kalani.”

Although wildly under appreciated in the larger surf world, Kalani’s fans were legion.

Two weeks ago, he posted a skate clip on Instagram that has now become a place where friends are leaving their tributes following his death in Costa Rica yesterday.

 

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