Sexy as all hell surf explorers.

Legendary surf explorers Jack McCoy and Mike Ritter release raw drug-soaked tell-all surrounding the discovering of world’s most famous wave, “I hoped Grajagan would remain pristine. I thought visitors should come in by boat and leave not trace – like we did loading and offloading marijuana”

With surprise cameo from the CIA!

If you’re new to surfing, you might think it a fad in much the same manner as frisbees and “jogging” in the nineteen-seventies, a silly short-lived diversion from the misery and suffering of life, adored by celebrities and advertising.

Therefore the notion that surfing and the culture surrounding it used to be…wild… in its purest sense, might be difficult to get your head around.

A new book by the surf explorer and filmmaker Jack McCoy and fellow traveller Mike Ritter (who co-authored Thai Stick with BeachGrit favourite Petey Maguire), “Grajagan –Surfing in the Tiger’s Lair: 1972-1984”, takes the reader back into the magical world of secret waves, the smuggling of drugs to generate the money to chase these waves, and the spectre of death and madness that seemed to lurk around every corner.

More than that, it frames East Java in a historical context, briefly touches on nearby Bali’s insane bloodletting of 1965 and 1965 when 100,000 souls were murdered for suspected ties to the Commies, those first surfs at Uluwatu and paints a vivid picture of that most mythical of surf explorers and scammers Mike Boyum.

The main star, howevs, is Grajagan and all the construction of the world’s first surf camp.

A brief-ish excerpt.

Before Bob left the Madrigal to camp ashore he had asked Abdul to fill a 35mm film canister with cocaine. Abdul had just returned from South America with a supply of the powder. Inside the same film can Bob stuffed a row of windowpane LSD. Salt water must have leaked into the can, because when Bob opened the can the cocaine had turned into a paste.

The windowpane was coated with the stuff. Thinking nothing of the consequences, Bob wiped the strip of acid with his finger and smeared the paste on his gums. He soon became lost in a psychedelic journey revved up with cocaine and he retreated to his platform to be alone. Later that night a loud whirring sound alerted Bob’s stoned senses. Looking up he saw flashing bright lights directly overhead. A beam of light shone directly onto Chris and Barry sleeping on the jungle floor. Bob was sure he was seeing a flying saucer. He thought the beam of light was going to transport Chris and Barry into an alien spaceship. After a long breath-held moment, the flashing ceased and the whirring apparition disappeared.

The next morning Bob asked Chris and Barry if they had seen the UFO. “Nah,” said Barry, “it was a helicopter. Probably CIA.”

As unlikely as both Bob’s and Barry’s assumptions seem today, Barry might have been closer to the truth. During the 1960s Indonesia was a hotbed of cold-war activity. With support from Russia and China, the country almost became a communist state until the Indonesian army took control in 1965. The CIA backed the army. Perhaps a paranoid intelligence officer worried the surfers were insurgents attempting to establish a foothold on the desolate peninsula. Actually, they were.

It’s impossible to recommend this book more highly.

Australians can pre-order the regular volume, which costs $54.50 here, Americanos pay thirty-five bucks (click here), or if you wanna get real tricky pay $A150 for the collector’s edition, signed by the authors, limited run of 300, and with a leather cover, gilded edges and a ribbon marker.

Surf fans (left) attempting to glean advantage over Pete Davidson.
Surf fans (left) attempting to glean advantage over Pete Davidson.

Surf fans bite fingernails to nubs as star quarterback Tom Brady sends clear shot over Kelly Slater’s bow in increasingly dramatic estrangement from wife Gisele Bündchen!

Crazy Dayz.

What a week it has been. Exactly seven days ago, news broke that Tom Brady and his wife Gisele Bündchen had each hired divorce lawyers. The exceptional quarterback, who currently plays for the Tampa Bay Buccaneers, and the Brazilian supermodel had seemed the picture of happiness and success over the course of their decade-plus marriage but oh what we each don’t know, don’t see behind the closed doors of lives.

Apparently the two had been having issues for some years and the whole business unraveled after a “big fight” at the beginning of this year’s NFL season.

Surf fans around the globe immediately turned attention toward the the world’s greatest surfer, Kelly Slater, and a possible, glorious reunion. Slater and Bündchen had famously dated during 2005 – 2006, two of eleven championship years for the Boy from Cocoa Beach, and candles were lit for a rekindling.

“Things” have been extremely volatile since.

Hearts were sent soaring when Bündchen saged her car then crashed when Leonardo DiCaprio and Josh Hartnett emerged as possible competition. Up again when the one-time Vickie’s Hush-Hush model appeared to alter a tattoo to look like Slater to say nothing about her turn to faith healing, but, now, plunging again as Brady has re-emerged, publicly, sending a clear shot over Slater’s bow.

On a podcast interview hours ago, the seven-time Super Bowl winner declared:

There’s things I’m going through in my 40s and it’s life. And you learn to grow up and you learn to deal with life. And that’s what we’re all trying to do. We’re trying to do it the best way we can. I think you realize that there’s a lot, especially in today’s day and age, with how fast things are happening in life for all of us, and the amount of responsibilities we have. You wake up every day trying to do the best you can do, understanding that life has its stresses. And to deal with them with a great support system and understanding and having some introspectiveness in your life where you can look at yourself and say, “Where do I need to commit my time and energy to? And how can I lessen some of the stress and lessen the burden on me so that I can be good for people around me.” So those are all different things that I work at.

To repeatedly refer to Slater as a “thing” seems very calculated, very… pointed. Certainly a shot over the bow but how will the sitting Pipeline Pro respond to the slight? In a battle of GOATs, where would you side? I mean, as a surf fan obviously with Slater but who do you think would, could actually re-win Bündchen’s love?

Tom Brady has millions of dollars and lived in Derek Jeter’s house.

Kelly Slater knows pretty much everything.

Fingernails to nubs.

In moving tribute, World Surf League celebrates itself for celebrating indigenous peoples on day dedicated to them!

Touching too.

Yesterday marked Columbus Day, for some, Indigenous Day, for most, in these United States of America. A time to reflect on those who occupied these lands first, whose “new world” was across the sea in Europe. The World Surf League moved many by celebrating itself and its supporting of indigenous peoples on tour all year long in a powerful post that began:

Today, and every day, we honor and acknowledge Indigenous communities all over the world. This year, we have had the privilege to work with Indigenous communities across the globe. From California to Australia, Hawaii to Tahiti, we are committed to deepening these relationships globally and uplifting Indigenous voices. To learn more about how WSL is collaborating with Indigenous coastal stewards to shift culture read the article here.

The article pointed to everything the WSL did i.e. posting signs outside events acknowledging the original inhabitants and inviting tribal leaders to come to contests for blessings and other cultural performance for the viewing pleasure of professional surfers and sometimes professional surf fans.

Native plants were also planted by professional surfers but that may be a different component of goodwill that needs its own celebratory post.

Raise a sarsaparilla toward Santa Monica please.

Slater (left) and Gabbard (further right).
Slater (left) and Gabbard (further right).

One-time Hawaii rep and noted surfer Tulsi Gabbard leaves party after fiery screed: “I can no longer remain in today’s Democratic Party that is now under the complete control of an elitist cabal of warmongers driven by cowardly wokeness!”

"So long, suckers."

American politics’ most famous surfer, after Richard Milhous Nixon, would certainly have to be Hawaii’s one-time Democratic representative Tulsi Gabbard. The congresswoman, who served the state in Washington D.C. from 2013 through 2021 and was notable for her Hindu faith, military service in Iraq and support of food trucks in Honolulu was, also, wonderful friends with Kelly Slater, recipient of The Inertia’s Global Advocate Award on top of being a passionate wave slider.

Though her political stance has shifted a bit since she left office, few expected the video screed she left, overnight, torching Democrats to the very bone on the way out the door.

Gabbard said:

I can no longer remain in today’s Democratic Party that is now under the complete control of an elitist cabal of warmongers driven by cowardly wokeness, who divide us by racializing every issue and stoke anti-white racism, actively work to undermine our God-given freedoms that are enshrined in our Constitution. I believe in a government that is of the people, by the people and for the people.


Unfortunately, today’s Democratic Party does not. Instead, it stands for a government that is of, by and for the powerful elite. I’m calling on my fellow common sense, independent-minded Democrats to join me in leaving the Democratic Party.

Amongst other things.

The question now remains, will The Inertia abandon “cowardly wokeness” or continue to tread that rosy path?

More importantly, what does Kelly Slater think?

And Gisele Bündchen?

We already know Tom Brady’s opinion. Let’s go, Brandon etc.

Palm Springs killjoys responsible for spiking Coral Mountain wave pool concept aim conservative moral outrage at region’s other proposed tanks!

"What could they be doing more conservatively?"

A handful of days ago, Southern California surfers woke up to the very bad news that Coral Mountain, a wave pool-centric project in tony Palm Springs, had been rejected by grouchy local killjoys. They showed up, en masse, to local city council meetings complaining about all the loud surf young ‘uns set to invade, them bringing their loud rock ‘n’ roll or hippity-hoppity music, bright lights and water wasting.

Coral Mountain was, thus, spiked but the grumps are not through and have now aimed their moral outrage at other neighboring surf tank plans including DSRT Surf and Thermal Beach Club.

Alena Callimanis, a core member of La Quinta Residents for Responsible Development, was thrilled at the group’s smashing of dreams, is frustrated that the aforementioned vowel-resistant DSRT Surf and Thermal Beach Club have already been approved by their city council’s, telling the Desert Sun, “It’s so much harder once a project has been approved to do anything, but if we can (let’s) move the needle to have these cities relook at their water calculations to look at — what could they be doing more conservatively?”

“More conservatively” an extremely slippery slope. What might the demands include?

Agreeing to only play Tony Bennett at low volume?

Refusing entry to certain people groups?

Mitch McConnell nights?